WHO MAKES A GOOD BODY FILLER

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   HELLO
   GETTING READY TO FIX RUST HOLES AND  RUST SPOTS ON 7060 HOODS AND CENTER PANEL. WHO MAKES A GOOD BODY FILLER AND IS EASY TO WORK WITH?
  THANKS THAD

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SIMPLICITY Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 19 Sep 2009 Location: ERATH LOUISIANA Points: 508	Post Options Post Reply Quote SIMPLICITY Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: WHO MAKES A GOOD BODY FILLER Posted: 20 Jan 2011 at 9:25pm
	HELLO GETTING READY TO FIX RUST HOLES AND RUST SPOTS ON 7060 HOODS AND CENTER PANEL. WHO MAKES A GOOD BODY FILLER AND IS EASY TO WORK WITH? THANKS THAD

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jaybmiller Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 24360	Post Options Post Reply Quote jaybmiller Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 Jan 2011 at 6:33am
	I prefer to use lead, short strand fibreglass is my second choice. Buy at a body paint supply shop that you get your paint from. Key to a very good, long lasting job is surface prep! Get rid of all the old paint,scuff it up nice, clean it at least 3 times BEFORE you put anything on the metal.
	3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water

mlpankey Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Vols country Points: 4580	Post Options Post Reply Quote mlpankey Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 Jan 2011 at 8:49am
	evercoat medium base

Dick L Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edon Ohio Points: 5087	Post Options Post Reply Quote Dick L Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 Jan 2011 at 9:10am
	Where ya at Butch (OH) I have used Butch's mixture and it works better than any other thing I ever tried. It also does not chip out of the pits when sanding like plain body filler will. I have smoothed out some hoods that would have needed patched with anyother mixture. I'll let Butch tell you the total deal. I want to give credit where credit is due.

Osage_Orange Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: SW MO Points: 1593	Post Options Post Reply Quote Osage_Orange Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 Jan 2011 at 9:20am
	I like short strand fiberglass applied to bare metal, properly scuffed. It does not attract water like most fillers. It is a bit harder to work with. Nothing more frustrating than to see blisters (rust) in the paint a couple years after doing all that work.
	Why is there never time to do it right the first time, but always time to go back and fix it?

Butch(OH) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Lucerne Ohio Points: 3835	Post Options Post Reply Quote Butch(OH) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 Jan 2011 at 9:40am
	It's no big secrete Dick, LOL. Best, easiest, fastest, cheapest way depends on how deep they are. You should put some epoxy primer on first but its not mandatory. Then for deeply pitted metal you first use a thin bodied filler. It is sold under various names none of which I have committed to memory because I don’t buy them. I make my own by adding additional resin to regular body putty or bondo. Resin is sold at paint supply stores or the resin in a fiberglass patch kit is the same stuff. Add resin to bondo first and mix, then use the bondo hardener. If it "pulls up" behind whatever you use to smooth it leaving a rough surface you need more resin (pitch it and make another batch you don’t add resin to a batch already in the working stages or you'll have a mess to fix!) If it runs you overdid the resin, pitch and start over. Ordinary surfacer is used to finish the job with wet or dry sanding. Regular lacquer surfacers should not be used to fix deep pitting as the deep pockets do not dry for a long time and your nice smooth paint job will have pits magically reappear in a few months. If you are wealthy enough to afford the two part surfacers you can pile it on as deep as you want. Guess I should have read the post better. My mix is for pits, not holes. Edited by Butch(OH) - 21 Jan 2011 at 9:47am

mlpankey Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Vols country Points: 4580	Post Options Post Reply Quote mlpankey Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 Jan 2011 at 11:51am
	best fix for rust pits is primer. just spray it let it dry sand it off . repeat process untill pit is full of primer and level with metal . you get no cracks that way . eavercoat medium weight body filler and plumbers sand cloth or cheesecloth makes holes go away untill next paint job. cheese cloth for holes you can stick your fist through small holes the body filler by itself will take care of . Fiberglass risen added to it can help to.