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Mr.Saliva 
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Joined: 05 May 2019
Location: Minnesota
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 Topic: What kind of gas?
Posted: 27 May 2019 at 2:13pm |
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I've got a 1937 WC.
What kind of gas should I be running in it?
The guy I got it from insisted I use non-oxygenated premium.
It has the single fuel manifold.
Mr.Saliva thanks you for your input!!
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AaronSEIA
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Mt Pleasant, IA
Points: 2564
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Posted: 27 May 2019 at 2:45pm |
I Run 87 octane E10 in everything I have. Zero fuel related issues that weren't my own stupid fault. AaronSEIA
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DougS
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Joined: 03 Nov 2011
Location: Iowa
Points: 2490
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Posted: 27 May 2019 at 3:04pm |
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Premium with an engine that has about a 6.0:1 compression ratio? Who is he trying to fool? I don't know if the old carb seals and gaskets can handle E10 or not. Try E10 if the tractor doesn't sit in storage for months at a time. Otherwise use good old non-alcohol regular.
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DougG
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Joined: 20 Sep 2009
Location: Mo
Points: 8256
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Posted: 27 May 2019 at 3:55pm |
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Anything with the ethanol stuff will over time ruin the system
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DaveKamp
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Joined: 12 Apr 2010
Location: LeClaire, Ia
Points: 5971
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Posted: 27 May 2019 at 3:59pm |
It will run on damned near anything flammable that doesn't either gum up the workings, or etch a hole through it. There are SOME carbeurator kits that have float valve seal material or gaskets which are low grade. There are some situations where ethanol (being hygroscopic) will wind up bringing lots of moisture into the fuel, and making it run bad. Neither of these situations demand premium... on the contrary, in 1937, they would run tractors on anything liquid that would burn, and not cost much money.
When you run it, and you're done for a while, turn the fuel petcock off and run the carbeurator dry. Before you start it after a long sit, drop and dump the sediment bowl, and while it's out, turn the fuel valve on and let it run a little. Catch it in a jar and use it to start the bonfire if you're environmentally sensitive... but realize that there will be quite a bit of moisture in there, so you're not dumping nothing but gasoline. ;-)
Times were different then, but no less than today. Don't let some doofus con you into using lead additives- when these engines were built, TetraEthyl Lead was just a pricey novelty, and hardened valve seats were standard equipment, because they expected to run these on propane and natural gas, too.
The worst thing about modern gasoline, is the fact that, when combined with moisture and byproducts of corrosion of steel, aluminum, zinc, and other things, fuel tends to turn into ugly varnish because all the lighter fractions evaporate off, leaving the goo. Ethanol certainly accellerates that, as it's very caustic, and brings in moisture.
If you run it enough so that the fuel going through it is very frequent, it will cause you the least troubles. Shut off that fuel tap, let it run the carb dry, and dump the sediment valve often.
Edited by DaveKamp - 27 May 2019 at 4:02pm
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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Allen Dilg
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: NE IL
Points: 820
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Posted: 27 May 2019 at 6:43pm |
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Hello ALL! With ethanol i would turn fuel off at tank and run engine out. unless using it soon.
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B26240
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Joined: 21 Nov 2009
Location: mn
Points: 3860
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Posted: 27 May 2019 at 6:57pm |
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I'm with Dave 100%
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 85776
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Posted: 27 May 2019 at 8:52pm |
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I bought a 1989 F250 brand new and it never had anything in it be E10 ethanol fuel... so I know ILLINOIS has been pushing that for 30 years now.... I have several small Allis tractors and they ALL run on ethanol E10.... that's all they sell where we live. Runs in the chainsaw, weed eater, gas post hole digger, and the wifes car... EVERYTHING... and the mowers set from November to April with no special draining.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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im4racin
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Joined: 12 Jun 2017
Location: Garrison ND
Points: 1003
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Posted: 27 May 2019 at 9:36pm |
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Funny! I used to run e10 in everything and had lots of carb trouble. Switched to premium(to get rid of ethanol) and added sea foam and my carb issues are gone! I get 40 gallons at a time and use 2 cans sea foam in a tank on a skid with a pump. Rarely use a gas can unless I run the machine out.
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Dakota Dave
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: ND
Points: 3965
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Posted: 27 May 2019 at 9:37pm |
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Drain the accumulated water out of your sediment bowl and run E10. It will bring all the water to the bottom just like putting Heat in your tank use to. If it hasn't had a carb over haul in the last 40 year it might still have the rubber seat on the float but they put vitriol seats in every kit since the 70's. Nothing else in the fuel system will get hurt by alcohol. You WC will burn just about anything flammable you put in it. I used up my half barrel of old diesel in my C mowing put a gallon of old diesel in each 5 gallon can of gas. One of the old guys out here ran 100% alcohol in has C it ran a little cold but worked
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alchpuller
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Joined: 17 Dec 2015
Location: Goddard ks
Points: 30
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Posted: 27 May 2019 at 10:35pm |
Hard to believe how many people don`t like corn farmers,E 20 or
E 30 works real good, it will run cooler , cleaner,and a little cheaper.
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WF owner
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Joined: 12 May 2013
Location: Bombay NY
Points: 4891
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Posted: 28 May 2019 at 5:49am |
I agree Dave Kamp's post.
A lot of us oldtimers remember the days of "dry gas". It was a bottle of mostly alcohol that was put in a gas tank, usually in the winter, to mix with water and prevent the water from freezing in the fuel system. The problem was that old fuel systems weren't built to handle alcohol and it sometimes created problems.
Most of these old tractors have similar carburetors. Gas with alcohol can cause the same problems, especially in tractors that are not run often.
I suspect the reason the guy told you to run premium is it is the only fuel you can buy (at least in my area) without alcohol.
Edited by WF owner - 28 May 2019 at 5:52am
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Dave H
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Central IL
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Posted: 28 May 2019 at 6:41am |
For long periods of sitting around I do think draining the carb is a good idea. At least it surely won't hurt anythig. 
anyhow, I am not too sure how dry/empty the carb when the motor quits. i just take the drain plug out of the bottom and throw it in the pile of plugs and install s petcock.. Turn the key off, shut off the fuel at the bowl, and open the petcock and it is a done deal.
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Lonn
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Joined: 16 Sep 2009
Location: Назарово,Russia
Points: 29792
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Posted: 28 May 2019 at 7:17am |
I did away with using ethanol 2 years ago and haven't had a carb apart since. If you have a choice I'd skip the ethanol in this instance. Ethanol leaves a gray grime in the carb bowl. Every spring I'd have to take apart either my lawn mower carb, pressure washer carb, or starter fertilizer pump carb or all of them and clean out the grey grime that settled in the bowl. If one happened to be OK and run one year it was pretty much a given it wouldn't make it the second year without a good cleaning. In fact with ethanol every time I take apart the carb on one of those engines, I'd have to take emery cloth to remove the rust from the inside of the steel bowl.
My C required a carb cleaning every year where my WD would go a couple years. My D19 required a yearly cleaning too. I use Ethanol in the cars I run a lot and non ethanol in every other gasoline engine on the place and the headaches reduced greatly as far as carbs go. Now I have not run my C or WD in about 3 or 4 years so they are sitting with ethanol in the carbs and fuel tanks so I'm not looking forward to those jobs. Oh and my D19 has sat even longer. That reminds me when I bought my C about 10 or 12 years ago it had sat for many years without being run. I got it going and the tank was a nice bright steel inside. After about 4 years of ethanol the tank is now all rusty inside. Ethanol sucks.
Don't even bring up biodiesel!
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Phil48ACWC
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Joined: 17 Jan 2013
Location: Vermont
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Posted: 28 May 2019 at 7:21am |
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I've been running E-10 Regular gas in my WC for 20 years now year round. No fuel related problems. As DaveKamp says above, I also shut off the fuel and run the engine until it runs out of fuel after every use of the tractor.
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Dusty MI
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Charlotte, Mi
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Posted: 28 May 2019 at 7:30am |
 Dave H wrote:
For long periods of sitting around I do think draining the carb is a good idea. At least it surely won't hurt anythig.
anyhow, I am not too sure how dry/empty the carb when the motor quits. i just take the drain plug out of the bottom and throw it in the pile of plugs and install s petcock.. Turn the key off, shut off the fuel at the bowl, and open the petcock and it is a done deal.
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If I have a carb that I want to be emptied, I shut the gas off while the engine is still running and let it run out of gas.
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917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"
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DougS
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Posted: 28 May 2019 at 7:41am |
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"Runs cooler" means it produces less energy too. You can get more power with alcohol when you can advance the timing because of the higher octane of alcohol. That's how they do it with race cars. In the good old days E10 had a little higher octane rating. Now it's all the same. Here in Iowa they continue to call E10 "Super", but there's nothing super about it anymore. Not that you'll notice with a WC. It's the expansion due to the heat that produces the power. I can buy regular unleaded where I am, but it's $.30/gal more. I spend the extra $$ for regular for my small engines, but use E10 in both of my cars. If unleaded regular where priced at 4 percent or less above E10, I'd opt for regular. That's the break-even price.
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HoughMade
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Joined: 22 Sep 2017
Location: Valparaiso, IN
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Posted: 28 May 2019 at 9:44am |
Where I live in Northwest Indiana, and the same applies to Northern Illinois, we are under an EPA "clean air" mandate that has several effects.
One of them is that ALL gasoline sold here must be oxygenated and that means ethanol. There is no "off road", "100% gas" or "marine" gas alternative without ethanol like there may be in places not under this mandate. The only exception is avgas and that is $4.84/gal here where "regular E-10" is under $3.00....and they "can't" sell avgas for non-aviation use under a few different laws, including the same EPA mandate.
Therefore, it's e-10 for me in everything. I run an "ethanol treatment" for my tractors and other equipment. Whether it is voo-doo or not, I don't know, but I have not had a fuel related problem in over 20 years of living here. Certainly, when I am reviving an engine that has sat for years at a time, the carb always needs to be cleaned, but I wouldn't blame that on ethanol. The stuff that sits over the winter always starts fine in the spring.
Edited by HoughMade - 28 May 2019 at 9:45am
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1951 B
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HoughMade
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Posted: 28 May 2019 at 9:51am |
DougS wrote:
"Runs cooler" means it produces less energy too. You can get more power with alcohol when you can advance the timing because of the higher octane of alcohol. That's how they do it with race cars. In the good old days E10 had a little higher octane rating. Now it's all the same. Here in Iowa they continue to call E10 "Super", but there's nothing super about it anymore. Not that you'll notice with a WC. It's the expansion due to the heat that produces the power. I can buy regular unleaded where I am, but it's $.30/gal more. I spend the extra $$ for regular for my small engines, but use E10 in both of my cars. If unleaded regular where priced at 4 percent or less above E10, I'd opt for regular. That's the break-even price.
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With alcohol, they not only advance the timing, but the can run them a lot richer and at much higher compression or boost (much higher cylinder pressures either way). Because they can be run much, much richer than gas, you can partially make up for the loss in power per volume by just running more fuel...but your efficiency then gets even worse than the 30% or so loss per volume...but in a racing application, who cares?
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1951 B
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BEK
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Posted: 28 May 2019 at 11:31am |
I run Ethanol free gas in my 37 WC. No problems. I always shut off the fuel and drain the carb when not in use. 
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Dave H
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Posted: 29 May 2019 at 10:41am |
Phil48ACWC wrote:
I've been running E-10 Regular gas in my WC for 20 years now year round. No fuel related problems. As DaveKamp says above, I also shut off the fuel and run the engine until it runs out of fuel after every use of the tractor. |
I second that. I have a lawn tractor that is over 20 years old. have never shut the gas off and always run E10. It gets a shot of snake oil in the gas tank going into the dormant winter. It has always cranked right up in the spring. The carb still runs like the day I took the tractor out of the crate.
However on my two trailer queen tractors, I do not keep gas in the tank nor the carb.
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