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Well gonna HAVE to split the 180 |
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DMiller ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Hermann, Mo Points: 33166 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 25 Jun 2023 at 2:38pm |
PTO Inner seal been leaking a long time, now the PTO has decided NOT gonna stay engaged and is Manual not Hydraulic. Will undoubtedly need slider, shaft, maybe fork and seals. Sucks.
This as I am scheduled to have Cubital Tunnel(Elbow) surgery on both arms sequentially, then IF Arthritis is not so bad, have a SI Joint Fusion performed. Be down something like 8-10 WEEKS.
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21400 |
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I have fixed several manual PTO's on 180 tractors and it's always the same problem. The PTO lever linkage is poorly designed and weakly built and if anyone gets rough with it, things get bent/twisted. Then, the hand lever winds up hitting the back edge of the hood not getting the sliding coupler fully engaged. I generally start with draining the hydraulic and transmission oil. Remove the PTO shield and give the shaft a yank and remove it from the tractor. Dress the burred end of the removed PTO shaft with a grinder removing anything that would impede the coupler from engaging fully, mainly getting the end O.D. back down to size. Now, with the shaft removed, concentrate on the linkage. The curved lever directly behind the clutch pedal lower pivot shaft is usually twisted and coming in contact with the clutch pedal pivot area BEFORE it gets to the detent position inside the torque housing. So, now you have to determine if you can heat the lever to get it clocked back clockwise enough to get full engagement to the detent. Maybe your issue is the hand lever roll pin?? Maybe the mid-way bell crank?? Could be all three things, but until you get the inner sliding coupler to reach the detent position, it ain't gonna work right. Once you get the linkage stroking 100% stick the shaft back in and I think you'll be pleasantly surprised. Shift lightly from now on !!
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captaindana ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Fort Plain, NY Points: 2539 |
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Wow Doc you are priceless! (as we all already knew!)
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Blue Skies and Tail Winds
Dana |
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21400 |
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If replacement parts are still available from AGCO, that lower PTO lever is twice as thick to prevent bending/twisting.
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AMB(wcIL) ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 03 Oct 2009 Location: Chapin Il Points: 302 |
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I was able to replace the coupler by dropping the PTO drive gear box under neath and I might have removed the power director plate cover on the side of a 185 I used to have. It had the left-hand manual engagement and 540 only. If I remember correctly, man the was probably the mid 90's. Andy
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MACK ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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Do as the Dr. says, but make a lever like the D17 has coming up along side of torque tube,and weld it to original linkage. Do away with the junk linkage the engineer made. MACK
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21400 |
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Actually Mack, my high platform One-Seventy has the standard equipment PTO lever on it with a One-Eighty platform/seat arrangement. Works just fine !!
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DMiller ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Hermann, Mo Points: 33166 |
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My 180 was problematic as first bough, replaced shaft and coupler several years ago then made mistake let another borrow the tractor for a ditch needing mowed as could not get his 16’ batwing in it, I have a 8’ Bush Hog 3008. Been rough to deal with since so pulled the Bent shift rod and got it to go full detent yet can watch the shifter slop back out as de-throttle. Shaft likely worn to taper again from his beating into submission. Hydraulic oil has been migrating to trans/final for a few years, pushing more faster now so time for seals.
Appreciate all the suggestions, just has come to tear down as it also needs a clutch. |
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