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WD45 Zenith carb drips gas

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woodman Steve View Drop Down
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    Posted: 13 Aug 2015 at 3:28pm
hi, I am having problems with the 45's carb.   The tractor runs fine, but the carb drips a lot of gas. When it is not running, it comes out in a stream.

Here is what I have done so far. I have two sets of needles and seats. I have tested both using compressed air. I can hold the needles into the seat and stop the flow of air. I have tried both sets in the carb. Both let the gas leak. I mounted the carbs without the bowl on the carb, and I can easily hold up the float and stop the flow of gas. I have shaken the float, there is no gas inside, and not leaking. the float does not appear damaged. I have adjusted the float so it hangs parrellel to the carb body. I.have set the float in gas and it floats fine. I tried adjusting the float so it does not fill the blow so full.

Please help.   I am not sure what to try next.   thanks!
Steve
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BennyLumpkin View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BennyLumpkin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Aug 2015 at 8:31pm
You'll more than likely have to pull the carb apart. More than likely it's one of two things...dirt in the needle valve not allowing it to close or the floats have a hole in them allowing gas into them and they'll no longer float...either way you'll need to tear it down.
Central PA Allis Express
1934 WC254
1945 WF
1945 WC135755
1951 WD68085
1953 WD45-150217
1957 WD45D-230744D
B110
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Dan73 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dan73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Aug 2015 at 9:00pm
When I rebuilt the carb on my d17 I had trouble getting the float adjusted correctly.   After checking the needle and seat and float where all correct I ended up flipping the top of the carb upside down. So the float was holding the needle into the seat. I then measured the distance from the body of the carb to the float. Knowing that the float would leak at this gap I decided to bend both sides of the float radically to a point I knew there wouldn't be enough fuel to run the tractor and re assembled the carb. I proved to myself that the carb would not leak if setup correctly.   Next I slowly bent the floats back about 1/8 of an inch each time until I found a gap where it started to leak. Then I backed up 1/8 to stop the leaking. This method required taking the carb apart a few times but it resulted in a float setting where the carb didn't leak and the carb didn't run out of fuel. That was my solution.
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woodman Steve View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote woodman Steve Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Aug 2015 at 9:26pm
I can try adjusting it as you described. I must have took the carb apart ten times today. A few more times is now easy.
Thanks, Steve
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jlogli View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jlogli Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Aug 2015 at 6:44am
Is the needle rubber? If not get one.
1945 WC on full steel, WD wide front, WD45 power steering, 1966 D-17IVfactory 3 point.1967 D-17IV SC. 1973 rotobaler white top. orange top roto, model 90 combine,82S, four bottom plow.302 baler.
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Steve in NJ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Aug 2015 at 6:48am
Make sure the round gasket that goes under the seat isn't sitting on a little tiny piece of the old seat gasket. That's just enough to let fuel in under the seat and not through it! Also, make sure the inlet threads and the inlet bore itself isn't full of rust n' debris where it would get into the needle valve and make the needle leak. The newer style needle valves with the Viton tip work great, but they catch that little debris all the time if the fuel delivery system and or carb bore isn't spotless. When I'm rebuilding carbs for our customer's, I run a bore brush up n' down inside the inlet. Even after I glassbead the carb. You'll be a bit surprised the crap that comes outta' that bore even after glassbeading it! Rust n' debris get hung at the back of the inlet bore along with the threads for the inlet elbow. The bore brush on a hand drill will clean that crap right out and also shine the bore and the threads all up. Then ya know its clean!... HTH
Steve@B&B
39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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woodman Steve View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote woodman Steve Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Aug 2015 at 8:38pm
Success at last. I got a new needle and seat. This stopped the gas dripping. I got the WD running as good as it has ran in years.
Thanks for the suggestions and advice. Steve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nick51ca Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Sep 2015 at 10:09am
I got a new kit from Steve for a CA. It never ran so good and idles great now. The needle and seat started to leak though. Cleaned up the inlet as suggested here and so far it's been just fine. There was a bunch of junk in there that probably got loosened up from soaking.
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Stan IL&TN View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stan IL&TN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Sep 2015 at 11:19am
And if all else fails just turn off the gas when it's parked.
1957 WD45 dad's first AC

1968 one-seventy

1956 F40 Ferguson
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Dan73 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dan73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Sep 2015 at 11:42am
Originally posted by Stan IL&TN Stan IL&TN wrote:

And if all else fails just turn off the gas when it's parked.

That is good advice in general.   Turning off the gas can help if you have gunk in the tank which keeps getting into the carb.
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