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jpaquette 
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Joined: 11 May 2017
Location: DeWitt, MI
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 Topic: WD45 Starting Help
Posted: 11 May 2017 at 6:35am |
I got a WD45 from my father in law early last summer and used it around the house a few times and it ran pretty well, but always had a little trouble starting. Over the winter I decided to replace most of the gaskets on the engine because it had numerous oil leaks. Finished putting everything back together and now I cannot get it to start. I have read through other past forums for help, but I am having no luck and am looking for some guidance.
Rotated distributor for the contact to just begin to hit plug wire 1. Then wired 1,2,4,3. When I turn it over it sounds like it wants to start but the starter disengages after a cycle or so and free spins. Also tried to rotate the distributor a few degrees both ways to see if there was any improvement and the motor had a harder time turning over, which makes me think I had the timing somewhat close.
My initial suspicion is that there is a bad spark plug wire, however I think the starter disengaging may be another problem. What could I expect if I have only 3 plugs firing? I plan to go look for some new ones tonight and see if that does the trick. Just need to get it started so I can get the timing light on it.
Thanks for the help.
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dt1050
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Joined: 05 Jul 2011
Location: central pa
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Posted: 11 May 2017 at 6:40am |
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before throwing parts at it, make sure ya have spark at all cylinders and gas is flowing.
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Just cause it's orange don't make it a tractor, there's only one..Allis Chalmers
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Stan IL&TN
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Posted: 11 May 2017 at 6:55am |
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Get the battery load tested to make sure it's got enough stuff to turn over the engine AND enough to run the ignition. Check the battery connections too.
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy
1956 F40 Ferguson
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
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Posted: 11 May 2017 at 7:09am |
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Good tractor you have ! Some pictures will help us!:) You may have several things contributing to not starting. The suggestion to check for spark and fuel is right on the money! I bought one of the Harbor freight inline spark plug wires that light up with each firing. Under $10 and well worth it. Having good fresh gas flow when you take out the plug on the bottom of the carb is a good sign.
After that it could be little things. But usually if you have gas spark and compression they will run.
I watched my Dad tinker with the 45's for years they may have got new points and a set of J8 plugs once a year. (BTW I am not a fan of Champion plugs!)
Regards,
Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 11 May 2017 at 12:05pm
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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dt1050
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Posted: 11 May 2017 at 8:10am |
 Sugarmaker wrote:
Good tractor you have ! Some pictures will help us!:) You may have several things contributing to not starting. The suggestion to check for spark and fuel is right on the money! I bout one of the Harbor freight inline spark plug wires that light up with each firing. Under $10 and well worth it. Having good fresh gas flow when you take out the plug on the bottom of the carb is a good sign.
After that it could be little things. But usually if you have gas spark and compression they will run.
I watched my Dad tinker with the 45's for years they may have got new points and a set of J8 plugs once a year. (BTW I am not a fan of Champion plugs!)
Regards,
Chris
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I generally use autolights in mine.
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Just cause it's orange don't make it a tractor, there's only one..Allis Chalmers
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Gerald J.
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Location: Hamilton Co, IA
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Posted: 11 May 2017 at 9:36am |
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If you changed the head gasket, the valves need setting. A thinner head gasket can keep the valves from closing, and that prevents starting by preventing the intake stroke producing vacuum and the compression stroke from producing pressure. A check for compression pressure can confirm that.
To run an engine has to inhale fuel, the valves have to open and close at the right times, the carburetor has to deliver a combustible mixture, and the ignition system has to deliver spark at the right time.
Gerald J.
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jpaquette
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Location: DeWitt, MI
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Posted: 11 May 2017 at 11:57am |
Thanks for all the suggestions, all. I do agree that the battery may have some load issues so I am jumping the tractor for the time being. It has historically had some "battery drain" problems, so my F-I-L kept it on a battery charger almost continously.
Gerald, I did not want to get into the head gasket, so I should not have any valve issues. I also chose not to mess with any gearing or timing equipment...etc. Of course the distributor timing is the one thing I did take off and replace gaskets on, which is one of my issues.
I will check the plugs for fouling and spark before replacing wires just to see what the current condition is. I also checked for good gas flow from the carb and it was clean and steady.
May not get to all of that tonight, but I will let you all know what I discover.
Thanks for the help,
Jay
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john(MI)
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Posted: 11 May 2017 at 1:32pm |
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You need spark and gas. spray some starter fluid into the carb and try it. That should make the engine at least fire if the problem is gas. If it does not fire, you have an electrical problem.
couple of easy checks that some overlook:
1. Make sure the gas is turned on.
2. Take a test light and check for the battery voltage at the coil, and at the points with the key on.
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D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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WF owner
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Posted: 11 May 2017 at 2:13pm |
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tadams(OH)
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Posted: 11 May 2017 at 2:38pm |
If you didn't put fuel additive in it and it set since last fall you probably will need to clean the carb. As this great fuel we buy does not store well with out additive and it glums up the carb.
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jpaquette
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Posted: 11 May 2017 at 8:09pm |
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So the great news, got the tractor started! It was all an improper timing issue. Although I did clean plugs check the gaps and replace one wire that had a limited life left. Thanks all for the help and suggestions. It now starts easier than it ever has before.
The bad...I think I have some issues in the steering gearing. I only have a few degrees either way of straight. Any syggestions on how best to attack that one? Also what tricks have people learned iin pushing the steering column back into the gear box?
Jay
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jpaquette
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Posted: 11 May 2017 at 10:18pm |
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So after a bit more fumbling I managed to get the steering working again. What's the best way to refill the gear box with oil? Recommended weight? I was thinking 90W.
Jay
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Jim Hancock
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Posted: 11 May 2017 at 10:29pm |
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Remove the square plate in front of the radiator and pour it in. 90wt. sounds about right.
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How blessed we are by HIS GRACE!
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LeonR2013
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Posted: 11 May 2017 at 10:41pm |
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Mine doesn't have a sq. plate on the bolster, but has a thin round cap that pushes into the hole. I have no idea who came up with that brilliant idea. You might check your points to make sure they're not burned from someone leaving the key on. If they look pretty good don't mess with them. They're still better than the junk they're dumping on us today.
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dt1050
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Posted: 12 May 2017 at 3:24am |
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a picture of what your working with might help.
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Just cause it's orange don't make it a tractor, there's only one..Allis Chalmers
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Don(MO)
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Posted: 12 May 2017 at 6:46am |
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You might Get away with 90 weight but 140 weight is what will stay in the housing. You will be better off getting a set of manuals to keep your tractor going. The fill plug is in the front of the housing just left of center.
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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jpaquette
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Posted: 12 May 2017 at 7:23am |
 [/UR
Took a shot from the front of the tractor and underside for some
clarity of what I am looking at. On the underside there is a what appears to be
a plug, but its location makes me think that it is for draining. Leon, does mine have the same round cap you are speaking of?
If so, does it simply pry off with a screwdriver?
Sugarmaker, the tractor does have champion plugs, but based
on suggestion and feedback I will not get them in the future.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 12 May 2017 at 8:21am |
jpaquette wrote:
Rotated distributor for the contact to just begin to hit plug wire 1. |
To do this, you MUST first find the compression stroke(remember there are 2 strokes to an engine cycle) on number one cylinder, then bring that piston to TDC.
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Gerald J.
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Posted: 12 May 2017 at 8:37am |
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[/UR
