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WD-45 Smoking?
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Foreign.Perspective View Drop Down
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Joined: 22 May 2017
Location: Texas
Points: 71 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Foreign.Perspective Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: WD-45 Smoking?
    Posted: 02 Oct 2018 at 9:40pm
I have a question for someone with more wisdom than I. Have a WD-45 has tractor that I bought, planning to rebuild. Got it running & started using it, just to determine the condition of everything.
     After 12 hours of operation it started smoking badly- even to the point of soaking the exhaust pipe with oil. I had beef idling it a lot, moving hay. I put it in the barn for a winter overhaul.
        When planting winter pastures my main tractor broke down & I pulled the WD-45 out to finish planting. As soon as I put it under a heavy load, it cleared up and completely stopped smoking- running great.
     As soon as I idle it down a few minutes it starts smoking badly again.
    This had me baffled. Any ideas what is causing this?
      I still plan to overhaul the engine, but would still like to know what’s going on.
Any input from you more experienced folks would be appreciated.
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 22002 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Oct 2018 at 7:22am
If you are planning a complete OH, your problem is solved. New pistons/sleeves/rings/ main & rod bearings/ reground crankshaft/new cam bearings/valves and valve guides will dry it up like it was when new.
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Points: 5636 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gerald J. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Oct 2018 at 10:12am
What color is the smoke? Black smoke comes from fuel too rich (like being choked). Could be the idle jet is getting too much fuel. Blue comes from burning crankcase oil. Gray comes from steam of coolant leaking into cylinders.

Gerald J.
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Stan IL&TN View Drop Down
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
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Points: 6730 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stan IL&TN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Oct 2018 at 3:54pm
You might have an oil ring that is sticking. You might running it under a good load like plowing along with adding some Sea Foam or ATF to the engine oil to aid in cleaning. You have nothing to lose at this point because if it fails to improve then a rebuild is next.
1957 WD45 dad's first AC

1968 one-seventy

1956 F40 Ferguson
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Joined: 22 May 2017
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Points: 71 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Foreign.Perspective Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Oct 2018 at 7:23pm
Thanks guys!
   While I’m planning a rebuild anyway, I am trying to figure what the main cause.
      It is blue crankcase oil. Wondering if it could be valve guides? Possibly worse because of the increased vacuum at idle?
        I was thinking that a stuck oil ring would still smoke under heavy load at higher RPM. I DONT know though- that’s why I value y’alls opinion. Thanks!
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Big Orange View Drop Down
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Points: 315 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Orange Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 2018 at 3:06pm
The engine needs a rebuild! Ok this is going to upset a lot of people on here, but after the rebuild use a good grade of non-detergent oil in it !  As that engine was made way before detergent oil was ever herd of, it has no full flow oil filter, to filter out the dirt in the oil before it goes to the bearings. I know the new oils are all high detergent and are good oils for newer engines, but not for this type engine. I worked as mechanic in the 1960's, at that time the oil company's were make high detergent oils & selling it all the farmers in my area. Farmers were having there old tractor rebuilt & using the new oil, but engines didn't last 10 years as they had before, only 1 or 2 years. The only difference was the oil, so the problem had to be the oil. I rebuilt the engines, they went back the old oil & no more problems. If a engine has a full flow oil filter system it will last longer than 10 years on the high detergent oils.  
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Points: 3072 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Oct 2018 at 6:29am
Originally posted by Big Orange Big Orange wrote:

The engine needs a rebuild! Ok this is going to upset a lot of people on here, but after the rebuild use a good grade of non-detergent oil in it !  As that engine was made way before detergent oil was ever herd of, it has no full flow oil filter, to filter out the dirt in the oil before it goes to the bearings.   
 
So if you use non-detergent oil, where's the dirt go? It stay's gunked up in the engine. That doesn't sound much better.
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Dave H View Drop Down
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Ermm  Wow Big O, that is totally a new one on me.
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Points: 5636 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gerald J. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Oct 2018 at 9:52am
Besides the detergent modern oils contain other additives that seriously extend engine life. One prevents moisture in the oil from making a battery of the silver or copper lined crankshaft bearing inserts against the steel crankshaft that without the additive eats the silver or copper rapidly. Before detergent oil with these other additives auto engines needed rebuilding every 30,000 miles. With modern multigrade detergent oils auto engines run over 150,000 miles without rebuilding. I remember an article in Lubrication magazine way back then where they compared New York city cab engines that needed rebuilding often with the non detergent oil of that era to cab engines with the new detergent oil. The engines with the new oil ran several times the miles of the engines of the same construction running the old oil.

In my opinion running non detergent oil is abusing the engine.

Gerald J.
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Originally posted by Allis dave Allis dave wrote:

Originally posted by Big Orange Big Orange wrote:

The engine needs a rebuild! Ok this is going to upset a lot of people on here, but after the rebuild use a good grade of non-detergent oil in it !  As that engine was made way before detergent oil was ever herd of, it has no full flow oil filter, to filter out the dirt in the oil before it goes to the bearings.   

 
So if you use non-detergent oil, where's the dirt go? It stay's gunked up in the engine. That doesn't sound much better.

It's more than just dirt. It's sludge. Engines made in the 30s, 40s and 50s were actually easier on oil than today's engines. Today's engines have higher compression, run hotter and turn faster than the old engines. With or without oil filters, you'd destroy a newer engine in a heartbeat if you used non-detergent oil. Clog even one oil passage and see how long the engine will last. Those old engines used non-detergent oil because there wasn't a good detergent oil available.
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Once the engine is cleaned out from an overhaul, run detergent oil and change the oil.  It keeps the dirt suspended and is drained out with the oil change.  Full flow or not, getting the dirt out and keeping deposits from forming are a good thing.  I like HDEO (Rotella) in old stuff for the zinc, but any quality oil will work.

The only time I would ever suggest considering non-detergent oil at this point is if you are not overhauling and you have a tractor where the engine has used it for decades are you are afraid of knocking the crud loose.  Even then, I have not followed this advice on my B.  I got it with 2 stuck pistons, freed it up and never have had the pan off of it.  After getting everything working I did about 3 oil changes in close succession and now it is running on Rotell conventional 15w40.  So far, so good. 
1951 B
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Points: 1225 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wfmurray Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Oct 2018 at 6:39pm
Might be just worn valve guides.May have done lower end and negelected head.
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Points: 315 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Orange Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Oct 2018 at 1:45pm
Can't you read & comprehend what I wrote!!!
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ALLIS DAVE The dirt and gunk settles to the bottom of the pan at the drain plug area, at oil change, with hot oil the dirt is drained out. That's how the non detergent oil works. Detergent oil keep dirt in suspension, so the dirt is pumped to the bearing, as there is no filter to stop it.  GOT IT 
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HoughMade View Drop Downyou hit the nail on head, detergent oils hold dirt in suspension, with no filter to stop the dirt it goes to the bearings & everything.
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Points: 315 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Orange Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Oct 2018 at 3:20pm
Years a go, these old tractors were worked hard, sometimes 24 hours a day, pulling a plow or disk, with different drivers of-coarse, in very dirty conditions. Not like today, pulling a hay-rake or baler. 
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Actually the dirt builds up on the parts and in the passages. It’s your tractor, so do what you want. Take an engine apart after using non detergent oil for 4000 miles and you’ll see that the dirt didn’t settle in the pan.
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Points: 5200 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chaskaduo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Oct 2018 at 3:23pm
So why even have a filter?
1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp
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Points: 315 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Orange Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Oct 2018 at 3:31pm
These old engines really don't have a filter. A bypass filter, filters very little oil.
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In ten years time, these old tractors probably had 6 to 8,000 hours on them. 
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