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Rodomoc 
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Joined: 12 Mar 2012
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 Topic: WD-45 Rebuild Report
Posted: 18 May 2012 at 3:07pm |
So I am still messing about with this '54 WD-45 of mine . 12V conversion complete and works well. Cleaned + partially rebuilt the very banged up air cleaner - all well now. Every hose replaced. Put in a high voltage 12V coil - Plenty of spark now. Full tuneup. All new fluids. Cleaned and repainted the beast. Replaced various things; battery box, new tractor decals. I suspected bad carb, was pouring gas out the air intake. Bought a kit + some additional pieces for it, rebuilt it. Still no go on getting it to run more than a low rpm putter. No mixture adjustment, choke position I try make a real difference. Something fundamentally wrong. Will still get some gas dampness in air intake. Checked - rechecked float height and float valve - floats replaced and adjusted to fill the bowl to height 11/16" below top. It is not physically overflowing. I now suspect vacuum leak at the intake manifold to head interface. I believe that unmetered air entering the system this way thus carb is unable to provide much in the form of tuning. Checked one of the intake runners and sure enough a large piece of the gasket missing. Have new intake and exhaust gaskets ordered. Look forward to getting them and hopefully getting this WD-45 back in action soon. On a side note I have become disenchanted with the manual starter switch. Old one went to hell. Ordered a new one. It is not working either. Suspect the copper terminal on starter is worn out thus these contact issues. Can't seem to find a replacement for this. So I have elected to convert over to a solenoid type system using an Echlin SF139 starter terminal conversion kit. Ordered that from Napa and a generic solenoid + momentary switch (press to start) from my tractor part supplier. I hope to cram this momentary switch into the control box. We shall see because it is already tight in there with keyswitch, light switch, and amp guage. I'll mount it somewhere I suppose...
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Hobby Farmer
'52 Harry Ferguson TO30
'54 Allis Chalmers WD45
'60 Farmall 460
Lots of small implements.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
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Posted: 18 May 2012 at 6:05pm |
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You should be able to file the top of that starter button off flat and the switch will make good contact. If the button is bad, it can be replaced at any rebuild shop. My G had a solenoid and I switched it back to the pull switch start . The starter needed internal work cause a couple soldered joints were broke so I took it to the local shop and they put the new button on it.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 18 May 2012 at 6:07pm |
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If you are going to the solenoid start, you may want to replace the key switch with one that has the start position on it. It might save you some room in the box. Things are tight in there.
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Rodomoc
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Posted: 21 May 2012 at 9:44am |
I removed the manifold yesterday and upon inspection, did confirm that one of the intake manifold runner gaskets was kaput. This now explains all of my troubles in getting the engine to run. I stoned the manifold interface surfaces on the cylinder head to get smooth and flat. If I ever rebuild this engine I will have this surface milled, but for now it is in pretty fair shape so I will go with it. I did the same to the manifold itself. The intake runner that had the bad gasket is quite thin in its wall thickness. I am not very happy about that. Any new gasket I put back on this one will most likely not last long in my opinion. I will hunt around for a new manifold just in case. Right now I just await delivery of the last few parts I need. I hope to have this beast running and out of my garage this week. I'll post some pictures at that time. Does anyone have a recommendation on how to remove the steering wheel. It looks like it is pinned in there. I have been unsuccessful in driving this pin out and am now considering drilling it out. I have a brand new steering wheel I would like to get installed. On a side note I did manage to find a snap coupler ring for the Allis 3 bottom plow. I am now spraying WD40 into every bolt/thread on all items associated with plow adjustment. It sat out a long time so many bolts frozen. I am freeing each one up 1 by 1 right now.
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Hobby Farmer
'52 Harry Ferguson TO30
'54 Allis Chalmers WD45
'60 Farmall 460
Lots of small implements.
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Stan IL&TN
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Elvis Land
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Posted: 21 May 2012 at 11:01am |
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Thanks for the update, keep us posted on how it's going and we sure like pictures!
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy
1956 F40 Ferguson
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Mike56073
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Joined: 14 Nov 2010
Location: New Ulm
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Posted: 21 May 2012 at 1:50pm |
I've done a bunch of these tractors and when it comes to replacing the steering wheel i always replace the shaft too. WAY easier than fighting that solid pin that's been in place for 60 years! The steering shaft is just a 7/8 shaft, 71 inches long if I remember right. Easy to do.
If you do end up replacing the shaft, you might want to replace the steering bushing in the throttle quadrant, too. If you paint the shaft don't go too heavy with the paint, or the shaft won't slide through the bushing.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 21 May 2012 at 4:40pm |
Those steering wheels and other parts had a chamfer on the hole and the pin was swedged in there on both ends. I don't think anybody ever expected to take them out 60 years ago. 
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Rodomoc
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Posted: 25 May 2012 at 7:30pm |
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So I once again tried to tinker with the carburetor and get things running. I put full rebuild kit into this thing. At any rate this carb fundamentally not mixing air/fuel correctly. Verified floats were filling to right fuel height. Float fill valve operating ok. Everything else in the carb brand new. Mixture screw settings have little effect. Main power adjustment at bottom had some effect on how things ran but not much. Best settings (1.25 turns open on top mixture, and a full 3 turns open on main). Only managed a very low rpm putter. Ran its best with no choke. Even slight throttle adjustments killed the engine. So to hell with it, a new remanufactured Marvel-Schebler TSX-464 is ordered and on its way. I'm done crewing around with the current carb.
I have decided to go with a key start system. So starter was removed and the positive post removed and replaced with a threaded post for cable mounting. I did use a post conversion kit from NAPA. A little rigging was in order but things are real good. I just have to solder the coil leads to the new post. I ordered a generic 12V starter solenoid from Steiner's. It is mounted on the front of the battery box. It seemed like the most logical place. I put in a key ignition unit from a 1965 Dodge. Original light switch replaced with one from Steiners. Had to relocate light switch because Dodge ignition is a fat piggy inside the instrument panel. All is well with the upgrade. Works like a charm. I will now go and get a short cable to run from the solenoid to my new starter post.
Steering wheel pin tapped out easily. Wheel is not coming off. I sprayed magic deep creep stuff in. Penetrates to a millionth of an inch. This stuff has never failed me before. So far no luck. Applied heat. No good. So I am thinking of cutting into the thing and removing it this way. I'll get that new steering wheel on there one way or another.
So now I wait for the new carb to get here. Hopefully that will be the end of it and I can pull this damned thing out of my garage. :)
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Hobby Farmer
'52 Harry Ferguson TO30
'54 Allis Chalmers WD45
'60 Farmall 460
Lots of small implements.
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Rodomoc
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Posted: 25 May 2012 at 9:44pm |
Forgot to mention that the new exhaust and intake mainfold gaskets in place. It was a breezy task compared to some I have encountered on this machine.
Also got the hood back on. It is too bad about the hood. Rest of tractor in real good shape and already repainted, etc... Hood dented up and a bit rough. Painted it anyway and put it back on. Maybe in the future I will get a nice new and straight one. I did not install the new hood decals. I will save them to put on a nicer hood.
Am still busy freeing up bolts, threads on the Allis 3 bottom plow. I'll put anti-seize paste into all of these.
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Hobby Farmer
'52 Harry Ferguson TO30
'54 Allis Chalmers WD45
'60 Farmall 460
Lots of small implements.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Location: NW Illinois
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Posted: 25 May 2012 at 10:37pm |
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Is the timing right on this tractor. I had the opposite problem when I got my WC back together. She would't idle and started hard. I messed with trying to set the carb and had it stuck in my mind that it was the problem. One day for the heck of it,I loosened the mag and started playing with it. I found out the guy that put the engine together didn't know how to set the timing and had the drive lug for the mag 2 teeth off, which retarded the timing a mile. Once I figured that out, setting the carb was a breeze.
Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 25 May 2012 at 10:51pm
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Rodomoc
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Posted: 26 May 2012 at 6:00pm |
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Timing believed to be correct. Was not changed since before the carb troubles. Ran great then (but only for a few minutes at a time). Does not have magneto; standard distributor, 12v coil, ballast resistor as part of the 12V conversion I did. Verified spark on each plug, spark is real good. Should be because I am using a 55,000 volt coil. Replaced cap + rotor + spark plugs. I did not mess with the points.
In thinking, the carb trouble from the beginning when I bought this beast last year. Would run couple of minutes and then quit. Gas always puddled in bottom of carb. When tractor purchased, the lower portion of the rubber air cleaner hose completely eaten away. So I am thinking the carb was bad for a very long time. It is TSX-464 unit. Rebuilt by me recently to no avail. The only thing I cannot verify is if it is supposed to have the economizer jet system in it or not. My carb has the passage way for it but there is no jet installed. Soaking in solvent, and then blowing air into this passage way does nothing. There is no outlet. So I have no idea about the whole economizer jet thing. I am looking forward to getting the re-manufactured carb and sending this one back as a core. Won't be beating this dead horse any further.
Am still wrestling with the steering wheel. Tomorrow I will get nasty and get it off on way or another. I also have to get the right side front end loader frame mounted. I have a very small bucket for it but it is pretty limited in what it can do. If I can find a way to either tap into main hydraulics or mount an external pump, I do have a much nicer bucket that could be used. Has own external pump, external reservoir, all plumbing + hoses, and has full up/down/tilt. Plus the bucket is much larger.
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Hobby Farmer
'52 Harry Ferguson TO30
'54 Allis Chalmers WD45
'60 Farmall 460
Lots of small implements.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Location: NW Illinois
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Posted: 26 May 2012 at 8:43pm |
 Rodomoc wrote:
Timing believed to be correct. Was not changed since before the carb troubles. Ran great then (but only for a few minutes at a time). Does not have magneto; standard distributor, 12v coil, ballast resistor as part of the 12V conversion I did. Verified spark on each plug, spark is real good. Should be because I am using a 55,000 volt coil. Replaced cap + rotor + spark plugs. I did not mess with the points.
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If you have a 12 volt system and you have a 12 volt coil, why would you have a ballast resistor?
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Rodomoc
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Posted: 27 May 2012 at 6:52am |
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Ballast resistor.....I was under the impression that it was needed per company that sold me the 12V alternator conversion kit (Steiner's). So in it went. Ignition voltage enters resistor, exits resistor and heads to coil positive, coil negative going to the distributor. All per the wiring diagram from Steiner's. Steiner's has the ballast resistor operational 100% of time (cranking and normal engine run) which is different than my 1965 Dodge car. The car has 2 ignition voltage sources from the ignition switch (key). When key turned to starting, the ballast resistor gets bypassed, when engine starts and key backed off to 'on' position, the ballast resistor is active. Not sure why Steiner's elects to run the ballast resistor all the time in their 12V conversion. It does not seem to hurt the starting ability of the WD45 however. Starts instantly every time even with ballast resistor being active during starting.
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Hobby Farmer
'52 Harry Ferguson TO30
'54 Allis Chalmers WD45
'60 Farmall 460
Lots of small implements.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Location: NW Illinois
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Posted: 27 May 2012 at 10:06am |
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If you have the proper coil, 3 ohm I think resistance, it has a built in resistor. So if you add a ballast res. you are cutting the power to the coil. The bypass on the Dodge let you have 12v to the 6 volt coil for starting. If you run 12v on a 6 volt coil continually, it will get hot and open up somewhere leaving you with no spark. Look at the coil and see if it has 12V on it somewhere. If it does, get rid of the ballast res.
In the original post you said you did a complete tune up. If you didn't reset the timing, you never finished with the tune up.
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Rodomoc
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Posted: 28 May 2012 at 5:49am |
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Will try removing ballast resistor with current coil to see what happens. I also have another coil I could try (12v internally resisted) from my Ferguson. I'll try that one without a ballast resistor as well. I retract my full tune up statement made previously. I have new points and will put them in after I get the thing running again on current points that are believed to be good enough for now.
Right now I have to correct a starter glitch. Changed to threaded battery post. My original solder job on new post to internal coil 'wires' must not be getting good contact (not sure what to call them as they are solid copper). I did this on my Ferguson starter once and it is holding up just fine.
Will put new carb in when it comes in a few days. There is not much else to do to the tractor after that. Looking forward to using it on my farm and giving the Ferguson a break from its heavier duties. The WD45 will handle those tasks much better due to its larger size and power.
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Hobby Farmer
'52 Harry Ferguson TO30
'54 Allis Chalmers WD45
'60 Farmall 460
Lots of small implements.
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WEL(IN&TN)
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Posted: 28 May 2012 at 6:22am |
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If your coil has 3-3.5ohm resistance you do not need the ballast resister.
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Jordan(OH)
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Posted: 28 May 2012 at 6:47am |
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Change points AND condenser and verify firing order.
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steigerbro24
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Posted: 28 May 2012 at 7:40am |
Yea it sounds like his timing is out of order, because if it is too far out then the engine will backfire and put gas in the aircleaner. Try timing it with the engine running and you should fix the problem
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5 Steigers, 7 John Deeres, 8 Internationals, 4 Case tractors and combines and 1 Oliver
........... Oh wait they're all 1/64.......and a real '44 B
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Rodomoc
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Posted: 10 Jun 2012 at 5:42am |
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Tractor running fine now. Carburetor replaced with re-manufactured unit. Using coil that is internally resisted without issues. Other coil and ballast resistor worked as well but I returned those parts back to the car I borrowed them from. There were no issues with firing order, timing. Put new carburetor on and only had to adjust the power needle to get it to start. Tuning the carb after that was easy enough. Starter was successfully converted over to threaded post cable mount. Tractor starts using standard 12V solenoid and key switch. Starts right up. Inspected points and their gap. They were verified as good so I left them alone for now. I did replace the condenser and noticed engine smooth out a little. Now that it is running good, I will use it a bit on the farm. There are a few more things I will do to the tractor but they are non-critical and can be done anytime. Made another post yesterday that has picture of tractor running out in front of my barn.
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Hobby Farmer
'52 Harry Ferguson TO30
'54 Allis Chalmers WD45
'60 Farmall 460
Lots of small implements.
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bachel1
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Posted: 10 Jul 2012 at 7:54am |
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bachel1
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Posted: 10 Jul 2012 at 7:57am |
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i have a 1950 allis chambers with a auto-lite starter.does anyone know where i can get a starter switch for the starter? bachel1@hotmail.com
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 10 Jul 2012 at 1:06pm |
bachel1 wrote:
i have a 1950 allis chambers with a auto-lite starter.does anyone know where i can get a starter switch for the starter? bachel1@hotmail.com |
If I were you, I would start a new topic for this. It seems like somebody mentioned altering a Delco switch to work.
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Rodomoc
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Posted: 10 Jul 2012 at 1:46pm |
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Regarding the starter switch. These can be ordered new from Steiner Tractor supply and are affordable.
For my particular WD-45, I removed the mechanical starter switch, removed original starter power terminal, and replaced with a threaded style power terminal. I did this because I changed my tractor over to a key start arrangement and employ a starter solenoid. I can hunt the NAPA part number for this threaded power terminal. This change involves taking starter apart, un-soldering original terminal, and soldering in new terminal. The NAPA part I bought works well but I had to customize the insulating washers to make everything fit and work right.
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Hobby Farmer
'52 Harry Ferguson TO30
'54 Allis Chalmers WD45
'60 Farmall 460
Lots of small implements.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
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Posted: 10 Jul 2012 at 3:46pm |
Rodomoc wrote:
Regarding the starter switch. These can be ordered new from Steiner Tractor supply and are affordable. |
Not for an Auto lite.
STARTER SWITCH
…1113061, 1113078, 1113080, 1108925* * Dimensions Notes Manual
foot lever switch Saddle mount 2 Mounting holes, 0.190 ID, 138 centers
Will not fit Autolite 38 16 Threaded battery terminal* *
Replacement AC 226128 DELCO 1925781, 1918405, 226128, 1919600, 1872405,
1919576, 1922609, 1932131, 1940047, D903…
Product Number: ABC012
Price: $11.95
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