WD45 PTO Oil Seal

This is more or less a continuation of another thread, http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/wd-rear-bolt-up-to-wd45_topic143113.html but the subject has shifted to actual repairs I'm doing.

I reinstalled the PTO housing into the torque tube and used a new gasket. Refilled, checked for leaks and -- GAH! Well, the new PTO gasket isn't leaking BUT the stub shaft oil seal IS. At the rate of about one glob-drop every 5 seconds or so. I've put a clean catch bucket under it to recover whatever is lost until I can get back to working on it.

My question is, can that oil seal be replaced while leaving the PTO housing installed in the torque tube and just removing the bearing race, or does the assembly need to be removed to perform the oil seal replacement? Not fixing that leak is not an option. It'll lose too much oil during the course of using the tractor. With limited time I'm just looking for a simpler/faster way of getting the job done. Some of you have already got your planting done, but here it's still snowing and we're looking at on and off snow continuing through Thursday. When conditions do get to where I can actually get plowing, everything else will be in full swing, too. While I'm at it, any suggestions for the seal and the shim (I'm figuring that needs to be replaced as well)?

Thanks in advance!
- Tim

That's the best advice you can get right there

70224779

1

SEAL, oil, stub shaft

Thank you, I feel stupid for not having discovered that before on my own lol!

EDIT - huh... At some point I DID add it to my favorites... memory ain't what it used to be.

Edited by TimCNY - 17 Apr 2018 at 2:39pm

Stan IL&TN wrote: 70224779 1 SEAL, oil, stub shaft

Edited by Brian G. NY - 17 Apr 2018 at 4:47pm

TimCNY wrote: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NOS13797?interchange=1 Look about right, Brian?

The seal is on the outside of the bearing. You can punch a hole with a screw driver and pry it out, or run a self tapping screw into it and slide hammer it out.
 Take a good look at the shaft, where the lip of the seal runs. Remove any burrs from the shaft and make sure the new lip doesn't set in a groove worn by the old seal.

It's been awhile and too many other things took priority over this. I've only been able to give a little time, a few times, to work on the brakes and PTO seal.

Anyways, yesterday I was able to get about 20 minutes free and removed most of the old (original) stub shaft oil seal. Unfortunately, the outer "ring" of the old seal is still stubbornly hanging on in the bearing cage/case. It looks to me that the I can either get a small gear puller in there to try to catch under the back of it, or pull the bearing cage, bringing me back more or less to one of my first questions: Do I need to pull the whole PTO box in order to get the bearing cage off, or can I accomplish its removal by taking off just the two housing nuts that are in the way? My guess is Id have to pull the box, because it looks like the studs would end up being as much in the way of bearing case removal as the nuts are.
I won't be able to get back there again until tomorrow at the earliest. Thanks in advance.

Yes it does, Chris, and thanks. Confirmed my thoughts. I'll be trying the small jaw puller first lol. Worth a try.

All set, a great big THANK YOU!!! to Sarah at Sandy Lake Implement. And thank you, Chris, for the tip!