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Offfishn 
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Location: Michigan
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 Topic: WD45 Newbie, manuals and parts questions
Posted: 08 Feb 2015 at 8:27am |
Hi everyone,
I just bought a WD45 (no engine side plate) tricycle with a "Allis" loader, 3pt, 60" shredder mower and a 12v conversion. I'm not looking to restoring it, I need to push some snow and bush-hog some property I bought here in Michigan. I'm retired from GM & FORD and work for FIAT SPA machine tool division, installing and repairing metal cutting machinery in North America.
So I'm handy with a wrench and know the value of manuals. Where is the best place to get some manuals, and which manuals are best. All manuals are not created equal...
Also a parts list of spark plugs, filters, cap, wires, etc with their part numbers would be a Great help. I see the sponsors section here on the forum and assume that since you let them stick around , they are good people. So the question is not where, but what do I need for the beast.
Thanks...ed
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54' WD45#160414 w/AC loader, 60" mower, sickle & 72" back blade. In Michigan, out annoying the neighbors in something that has a motor in it! 
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 08 Feb 2015 at 8:41am |
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Ed,
Welcome to the Allis Forum. The guys will be along with all your numbers soon. I dont have any of them memorized:) I just use mostly NAPA parts. The suppliers listed here are very good also. I use Sandy Lake Implement a lot, they like others, have good information and fast service.
The IT manuals are not the best ones, shy away from those.
You have a good Allis Tractor. I am stuck in the WD series also. Get a couple pictures and post them for all of us to view.
That should be a good snow pushing machine with the highlift too. Does it have power steering?
Regards,
Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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B W in Mo
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Posted: 08 Feb 2015 at 9:03am |
I get best results from Autolite 295 or 303
Oil filter Fram C159
Plug wires use copper core will work for ever # ??
Points don't know # but 6 cyl chevy is the correct ones I think .
Sandylake will be able to tell you every thing and will be correct.
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Offfishn
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Posted: 08 Feb 2015 at 9:08am |
Hi Chris, thanks for the reply.
I would guess no power steering, with a full bucket would not be fun! I just replied to Jacobs power steering 4sale post. I have no clue if a wide axle PS unit would work on a tricycle. Does Sandy Lake have the manuals I need? Which manuals? OEM AC manuals?
Ed
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54' WD45#160414 w/AC loader, 60" mower, sickle & 72" back blade. In Michigan, out annoying the neighbors in something that has a motor in it!
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Offfishn
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Posted: 08 Feb 2015 at 9:20am |
 B W in Mo wrote:
I get best results from Autolite 295 or 303
Oil filter Fram C159
Plug wires use copper core will work for ever # ??
Points don't know # but 6 cyl chevy is the correct ones I think .
Sandylake will be able to tell you every thing and will be correct. |
Thanks Billy, that will definitely get me started.
I just bought it yesterday (Feb 7th), they are delivering it next Friday. Going to start with a tune-up and fluid changes first.
Anyone know of a beaker less point conversion for the 226? ed
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54' WD45#160414 w/AC loader, 60" mower, sickle & 72" back blade. In Michigan, out annoying the neighbors in something that has a motor in it!
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DaveKamp
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Posted: 08 Feb 2015 at 9:29am |
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Hi Ed!
Hunt around, you'll find that the factory service manuals for these ARE online.
Just a few notes:
-If it has a magneto, use solid core wire and non-resistor plugs.
-If it has coil/distributor, use resistor wire OR plugs.
I use PerTronix Ignitor breakerless electronic ignition on most of my older engines... the only ones that Don't... are magnetos. Works great. make sure your distributor shaft bushing isn't worn out and sloppy, and that the advance mechanism is clean, and smooth-operating.
Check the valve lash, and if it hasn't run in a while, cycle the valves a little with a wood block and mallet... and note any springs that feel really saggy. If they're soft, it'll stumble when up to speed.
Power steering systems used on these, consisted of a hydraulic 'torque amplifier'... basically, it fit in the middle of the steering shaft (right behind the oil filter area), the steering shaft comes into the hydraulic torque amplifier on one end, and the other end connected to the steering shaft to the front end... didn't matter which front end. The torque amplifier unit consisted of an orbital steering valve and a hydraulic rotary actuator, in one unit.... so just put it in line with the steering shaft, make sure the torque unit's bracket is securely mounted, hook up the hydraulic lines to the pump, fill it, start it up, run it full lock each direction to purge the air, and you're done.
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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Gary
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Posted: 08 Feb 2015 at 9:49am |
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Hi Ed
Welcome to the Forum.
Lots of Allis New Reprints and Used Manuals on ebay.
Here are links to on-line Manuals for WD-45:
Gary
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Operators
http://www.grandpastractor.com.php53-25.dfw1-2.websitetestlink.com/kunena/allis-chalmers-tractors/530-wd45-operators-manual.html
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Service
http://www.grandpastractor.com.php53-25.dfw1-2.websitetestlink.com/kunena/allis-chalmers-tractors/576-wd45-service-manual.html
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Parts
http://www.grandpastractor.com.php53-25.dfw1-2.websitetestlink.com/kunena/allis-chalmers-tractors/435-wd45-parts-book.html
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Gerald J.
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Posted: 08 Feb 2015 at 9:58am |
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http://www.grandpastractor.com/kunena/allis-chalmers-tractors.html has WD service manual, op manual, and parts list for free download.
The service manual probably won't cover daily maintenance items, those are in the operator's manual. Part numbers will have to be translated at Agco because they have extended the part numbers usually by making them longer with a 700 prefix for the original 6 digit numbers.
A few years ago filter makers changed from the cotton ball filled oil filter for the AC bypass oil filter that cost engines. The pleated paper filter didn't have the pressure drop of the cotton filled filter and the pressure regulator design depended on that pressure drop. The Fram C159 has remained a good filter. I would think that most of the faulty filters have been discarded, but you need to watch out for them and not use that filter.
I think that magneto or distributor ignition that plug wires should be copper, never carbon because they were designed for copper and carbon wires (and resistor) plugs raise the ignition voltage in the distributor and may burn tracks arcing in the distributor cap. Plus I found some time ago that carbon wires were too fragile to be out in the open subject to be snared by brush or corn leaves while in the field. Wires going open as they move don't make for a smooth running engine.
Use modern engine oil, it lubricates better, stays in the bearings when stopped better, and prevents corrosion between dissimilar metals typical in main, rod, and camshaft bearings. And it keeps engines cleaner.
Gerald J.
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Offfishn
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Posted: 08 Feb 2015 at 10:02am |
DaveKamp wrote:
Hi Ed!
Hunt around, you'll find that the factory service manuals for these ARE online.
Just a few notes:
-If it has a magneto, use solid core wire and non-resistor plugs.
-If it has coil/distributor, use resistor wire OR plugs.
I use PerTronix Ignitor breakerless electronic ignition on most of my older engines... the only ones that Don't... are magnetos. Works great. make sure your distributor shaft bushing isn't worn out and sloppy, and that the advance mechanism is clean, and smooth-operating.
Check the valve lash, and if it hasn't run in a while, cycle the valves a little with a wood block and mallet... and note any springs that feel really saggy. If they're soft, it'll stumble when up to speed.
Power steering systems used on these, consisted of a hydraulic 'torque amplifier'... basically, it fit in the middle of the steering shaft (right behind the oil filter area), the steering shaft comes into the hydraulic torque amplifier on one end, and the other end connected to the steering shaft to the front end... didn't matter which front end. The torque amplifier unit consisted of an orbital steering valve and a hydraulic rotary actuator, in one unit.... so just put it in line with the steering shaft, make sure the torque unit's bracket is securely mounted, hook up the hydraulic lines to the pump, fill it, start it up, run it full lock each direction to purge the air, and you're done.
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Thank for the info Dave. Since mine has the coil/distributor, then I should use the Autolite 303 resistor plug not the 295? Do you have a source for the PerTronix Ignitors? Am I correct in saying I have a W226 engine?
The PS install sounds easy enough, just need to find one now. I have been brush hogging with a wide front non-PS WD of the neighbors and in the woods it is really an EXPERIENCE with the obstacles. He has a 72" hog, I got a 60" rough cut.
thanks...ed
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54' WD45#160414 w/AC loader, 60" mower, sickle & 72" back blade. In Michigan, out annoying the neighbors in something that has a motor in it!
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Offfishn
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Posted: 08 Feb 2015 at 11:07am |
Thanks Gary
525 pages of AC stuff, the wifes not going to get anything done today!
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54' WD45#160414 w/AC loader, 60" mower, sickle & 72" back blade. In Michigan, out annoying the neighbors in something that has a motor in it!
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DaveKamp
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Posted: 08 Feb 2015 at 11:09am |
Offfishn wrote:
Thank for the info Dave. Since mine has the coil/distributor, then I should use the Autolite 303 resistor plug not the 295? |
Either will work, and as Gerald noted, some prefer to go non-resistor on both because they feel that the higher voltage developed by a resistor plug or wire is high enough to beat up the inside of the distributor cap. I haven't had issue with that with my Allis engines (Delco distributors), but I have had instances (particularly with very rare (pronounced unobtanium) distributor caps becoming victim of carbon-tracking, and gone to hard copper to try to reduce the bang voltage. The advantage to resistance plug or wire, is as Gerald says- developing higher striking voltage to start the arc. It's especially nice to have when the engine has a propensity to carbon-foul a plug. If it drops a cylinder, but lifting the plug wire slightly off the plug causes it to fire, you're experiencing carbon fouling on that cylinder... and while it's not a permanent fix, putting resistance plugs or wires will frequently abate that issue.
Offfishn wrote:
Do you have a source for the PerTronix Ignitors |
Steve has 'em... there's quite a few guys on this forum that supply 'em... I don't remember where I've gotten all mine, but they can be found through just about any hot-rod or performance automotive outfit, as well as the major antique tractor and engine catalogs.
Offfishn wrote:
Am I correct in saying I have a W226 engine? |
Look on the distributor side of the engine... if the block has a large metal coverplate that goes basically full length of the block, and most of the height, you have a WC or WD block... and the serial number stamped in the block will probably be something like 'WD'. If there's no cover plate, you have a WD45 block, and the serial number will start with '45'. The differences in displacement... the WC/WD engine had shorter stroke, with factory bore/stroke was 201ci. The 45 engine had longer stroke, and 226ci displacement. If your engine is factory, you can go by that... however, it's not unusual to take a WD apart, and find a 45 crank... or vise-versa, as they're interchangeable. I believe the only part that ISN'T interchangeable, is the metal plate... the big metal coverplate for a WD/WC will fit on a WD45 block, but I'm pretty sure you'd hafta cut a big hole and drill/tap it for bolts... and the non-existant WD45 cover won't fit on a WC/WD block. (yes, I'm pulling your leg here.  )
Offfishn wrote:
The PS install sounds easy enough, just need to find one now. I have been brush hogging with a wide front non-PS WD of the neighbors and in the woods it is really an EXPERIENCE with the obstacles. He has a 72" hog, I got a 60" rough cut. |
Yeah, it's not incredibly involved. You may hafta hack-saw off a bit of the steering shaft to fit one up, but they weren't complex. There's more than one variety of power steering in this era... Others can identify with more certainty, but from what I've seen, it appears that the factory-option offered units were fairly large (almost football-sized), while the common aftermarket kits made (not just for Allis, but anything... tractors, trucks, etc), were frequently smaller... size of a quart oilcan. These power steering systems weren't 'proprietary' by any means- they were developed by fluid power companies for a wide variety of uses. Most of the types employed in post-war ag and machinery, were originally developed during WW2 to operate large valves, rotate gun turrets, etc... in such a way that they could function rapidly when powered, but if assist power were lost, they'd still turn manually, albeit with greater effort. They found good use in the power-steering application, hence, farm equipment. Important to note that with many farm-boys lost overseas, the farm girls operated tractors, especially AFTER the war, so power steering was not just considered a luxury- it was a force-multiplier of farm labor. A farmer with one remaining son and three daughters, had four capable of operating the machines... my mother was a prime example, and one of the reasons why he used AC equipment... the girls could start, run, and operate 'em just as well as the men. 
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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Offfishn
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Posted: 08 Feb 2015 at 11:14am |
WOW !
As my wife will tell you, I have "selective memory" so I've started capturing all these replies to keep them handy on my phone.
Thanks to ALL! Great AC community!
Ed
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54' WD45#160414 w/AC loader, 60" mower, sickle & 72" back blade. In Michigan, out annoying the neighbors in something that has a motor in it!
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Gerald J.
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Posted: 08 Feb 2015 at 3:54pm |
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I had occasional ignition problems with my '86 F150. On very foggy days every few years it wouldn't start. Eventually I found the high voltage ignition had turned the fancy rotor into sponge and with the high humidity of condensing fog it became conductive. A new rotor fixed it more than once. It had Ford's first new tries at electronic ignition.
Champion plugs for vintage tractors these days include an air gap in the plug to get more voltage because they say "ALL" old tractors are oil burners. Which can lead to rotor, coil, and cap problems with carbon tracks. And something about the ceramic prevents Champion plugs from cleaning or being cleaned after they are carbon fouled by too much choking so they now tend to have a short life. Other brands seem to live much better. Champion doesn't offer a vintage tractor plug without that voltage increasing air gap.
Gerald J.
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DaveKamp
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Posted: 08 Feb 2015 at 4:25pm |
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it's somewhat off-topic, but My most recent experiences with Champion plugs, are having the threaded base crimp fail, thus blowing MOST of the ceramic core clear out of the engine while on plane (boat).
i say 'most', because a fragment fell into the chamber, caught 'tween piston and cylinder wall, and took a 1/4" gouge right out of the #1 cylinder wall, destroying the otherwise perfect block.
Champion claimed that the fault was other than theirs, but offered to replace the failed spark plug. It is on this experience, that I fully recommend Champion plugs for every dumpster on the planet.
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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Offfishn
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Posted: 08 Feb 2015 at 5:43pm |
My son and I have in the neighborhood of 25-30, 2or4cycle engines running around. Champion plugs have been replaced in all of them. I have a friend who told me the Champion projectile issue a couple of years ago, strange that was on his boat also. NGK' have been giving me very good service. ed
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54' WD45#160414 w/AC loader, 60" mower, sickle & 72" back blade. In Michigan, out annoying the neighbors in something that has a motor in it!
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 08 Feb 2015 at 5:54pm |
I bought an IT manual 33 years ago when I got my 45. Al hadn't invented the internet yet so I got what I could find. It's the only manual I have used while working on the tractor and I have the tranny and rearend all apart and fixed lots of things using it. I also used it while working on the CA and totally rebuilding the 35WC.
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Chalmersbob
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Posted: 08 Feb 2015 at 9:20pm |
WELCOME TO THE SITE. There isn't any info you can't find here. The resistor wires and plugs were designed to be used in cars and trucks to reduce interference of the ignition system in the radio. The ignition spark caused much interference in old radios. I like solid copper wires. LOL Bob
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4 B's, 1 C's,3 CA's, 2 G's WD, D14, D15, B-1, B10, B12, 712S,
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Ted J
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Posted: 09 Feb 2015 at 6:29am |
Ed,  The manuals at www.grandpastractor.com are a MUST. Download them to your PC for reference later. Then when you can, find them on eBay and check the prices. Then go to the vendors on this site and see what they have. Most of them are cheaper here and they keep this forum on the internet so it is to our advantage to back them. Prices are all over the place on them. You need them in the shop though! Also go here!! http://www.agcopartsbooks.com/PartsBooksN/login.aspx?region=NorthAmericaGo down to "Guest User" and click on login. BOOKMARK this site because you will be going there a LOT! This is a complete parts breakdown of everything Allis. VERY helpful. Oh yeah, you can spend hours on it just looking!
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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Rltool
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Posted: 09 Feb 2015 at 7:15am |
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Hey neighbor! Where about in MI are you? I'm over south of Grand Rapids. WD/WD45 is one of my favorite. I'm trying to corner the market on them, just ask my wife. I have narrow front, wide front, with & with out power steering. Great work horses.
Ray W.
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Offfishn
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Posted: 09 Feb 2015 at 6:08pm |
Wow, nice site. The diagrams are VERY clear. I got the Operating, Shop and Parts manuals from the Grandpastractor site per everyone's suggestion and went thru a ream of paper printing them out. I'm not going to buy any tune-up parts or fluids until I get up to the workshop and get the numbers off of everything. . I need some practice and play time on the use of the foot clutch and the hand clutch operation. . The wife wants me to put some ROPS on it. . thanks...ed
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54' WD45#160414 w/AC loader, 60" mower, sickle & 72" back blade. In Michigan, out annoying the neighbors in something that has a motor in it!
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Offfishn
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Posted: 09 Feb 2015 at 6:25pm |
Rltool wrote:
Hey neighbor! Where about in MI are you? I'm over south of Grand Rapids. WD/WD45 is one of my favorite. I'm trying to corner the market on them, just ask my wife. I have narrow front, wide front, with & with out power steering. Great work horses.
Ray W. |
The house is in Port Hope on Lake Huron, the workshop is inland 3 miles away. The house ASSociation wouldn't let me buy an adjoining parcel and put a pole barn on it, sooooo I bought a closed horse training property that had a 56' x 58' Amish built pole barn on it. Now I got lots of property, pasture, woods to screw around in, but when I went up over XMAS there was 2 feet of snow and decided to get a tractor. . later...ed
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54' WD45#160414 w/AC loader, 60" mower, sickle & 72" back blade. In Michigan, out annoying the neighbors in something that has a motor in it!
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Steve in NJ
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Posted: 10 Feb 2015 at 6:17am |
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Hi Ed!
Welcome to the Orange family! We carry everything you may be looking for including the electronic ignitions. We've been a Fram filter dealer for over 40 years. Visit our website. Plenty of info there to read. Lottsa' pictures to look at to. Still building the site as it's pretty new yet and I have a lot more to add as we go along. Again, welcome aboard! WD45 is a super nice machine! I have three wiring systems I'm building right now for customer's WD45's. Very popular model Tractor and you can sure do a lot wit' them.
Steve@B&B
bb-customcircuits.com
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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j.w.freck
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Posted: 10 Feb 2015 at 9:28pm |
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offfihhin pretty well summed it up.i have the jensales parts.overhaul and ops.manuels.some people say they are hard to read.but I am 76 years old and have no problem.i have their manuals for my 5 wd-45 diesels,4 wd-45 gas and my b,s and ca,no problem.....
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Offfishn
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Posted: 11 Feb 2015 at 6:02pm |
Clutch question: By pushing the foot clutch it appears to disengage ALL power to the wheels and PTO (if engaged). Pushing the Hand clutch forward just stops the tires from turning, NOT the PTO from turning(if engaged/pulled up). Doesn't it hurt the clutch to disengage the tires/axles (with the hand clutch) without depressing the foot clutch?
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54' WD45#160414 w/AC loader, 60" mower, sickle & 72" back blade. In Michigan, out annoying the neighbors in something that has a motor in it!
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Gerald J.
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Posted: 11 Feb 2015 at 7:04pm |
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Stopping the drive with the hand clutch while keeping the PTO turning is how the WD45 has an independent PTO. Seems to work fine by all reports. I have not had any experience with a WD45.
Gerald J.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 11 Feb 2015 at 7:10pm |
Offfishn wrote:
Clutch question:
Doesn't it hurt the clutch to disengage the tires/axles (with the hand clutch) without depressing the foot clutch?
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NO! You can even slip the hand clutch half the day long and not hurt it. It runs in oil and is made to handle slipping. I wouldn't do that plowing but I have done it picking corn that was too heavy for my Wood Brothers picker. It also keeps the hydraulics going when you release the hand clutch. The foot clutch stops PTO, hydraulics and forward motion. The hand clutch stops the wheels only.
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Offfishn
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Posted: 13 Feb 2015 at 5:41pm |
WD45 needs some oil, what weight for 0-30ºF Michigan winter?
Synthetic or Conventional?
Edited by Offfishn - 13 Feb 2015 at 5:42pm
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54' WD45#160414 w/AC loader, 60" mower, sickle & 72" back blade. In Michigan, out annoying the neighbors in something that has a motor in it!
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 13 Feb 2015 at 5:43pm |
I use 10W30 or 10W40. If it has never had anything but non detergent in it and you go to detergent, ya might wanna change it after 10 hours or so cause it could loosen up a lot of crud. Oh and unless you got money to burn, leave the synthetic on the shelf. 
Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 13 Feb 2015 at 9:15pm
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Rltool
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Posted: 13 Feb 2015 at 7:27pm |
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I use 10W-30 & do what CTucker said.
Ray W.
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Offfishn
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Posted: 07 Jul 2015 at 7:08pm |
Anyone know what size the fuel line threads are, on the WD45 TSX464 carb fuel line?
And where to get those fuel line acorn nuts?
Edited by Offfishn - 07 Jul 2015 at 7:12pm
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54' WD45#160414 w/AC loader, 60" mower, sickle & 72" back blade. In Michigan, out annoying the neighbors in something that has a motor in it!
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