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WD45 Lift Arms Stay Up |
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FranksWD45PS ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 07 Nov 2019 Location: Michigan Points: 20 |
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Hi all. I bought a WD45 this summer. Nice tractor but the hydraulic lift arms stay up all the time. There is constant pressure on them. Standing on the arms does not lower them. The hand lever does nothing. The only way to lower them is to take off a line on the pump. I have adjusted all linkages based on the manual. I have also changed all the fluid so thats clean. The hold positioning valve is also functioning correctly from what I can tell.
I dont know what is restricting the lift arms from lowering. I've adjusted the "A" thru "D" knobs on the pump to the hold position configuration. Someone before me installed a "T" off of the right side lift line with a plug. Maybe they were measuring the pressure there. Maybe the whole pump needs to be removed and inspected. I dont want to do that just yet. When the clutch is not depressed I do hear a noise that sounds like its coming from the rearmost portion of the pump. When the clutch is depressed, pushed out, this noise goes away. Maybe something in the unloading valve assembly is not correct. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Frank.[IMG]uploads/20393/IMG_6118R.jpg[/IMG][IMG]uploads/20393/IMG_6119R.jpg[/IMG] |
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SteveM C/IL ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8480 |
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When quadrant lever is down the lever on side of pump should be down and it should quit pumping. If that's not happening,you got internal problems. It is NOT the unloader valve causing that.
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Lonn ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Location: Назарово,Russia Points: 29792 |
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Probably a broken spring caught internally in the pump. Get a book before tearing the pump apart. The little spools and valves need to go back in the exact spot they came out of because they are all fitted (honed to fit) when the pump was manufactured. My WD acted the same way and it was a broken spring stuck in a tiny spool......... but my pump would get hot as a pistol as it pumped pressure whenever it was running. I used a cake pan full of diesel fuel to lay all the parts out as they came apart and I just ended up replacing all the springs because they all were worn thin and of course I replaced all the seals. Not expensive but certain words may flow from your mouth when removing and especially reinstalling the pump with that side rail in the way.
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Wink I am a Russian Bot |
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MACK ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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Time to pull pump and polish spool valves. New check valve springs, orings, gaskets, and cleaning. MACK
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21377 |
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The screw located at the lowest point on the pump may not be positioned correctly. In a perfect world, the tip of that screw aligns perfectly with a divot or pocket on the side of the pump housing. Sometimes the lever the screw is threaded into needs to be rotated counter-clockwise a bit to get this alignment correct. If the lever is rotated the least bit clockwise, the pump never stops pumping. This is especially true if the linkage from the drawbar spring fork is missing or maladjusted.
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FranksWD45PS ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 07 Nov 2019 Location: Michigan Points: 20 |
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Thanks everyone for the suggestions.
As I was dreading I'm just going to pull the pump and tear it down. That way I'll know for sure what the issue is. It almost looks like the hydraulic lines were screwed into the pump before they installed it. That could be difficult. Next question is does someone make a rebuild kit for these pumps? Or do you just clean it up and match up O-rings to work with it? Springs might be a challenge to find if they are broken. |
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Sugarmaker ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8428 |
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Franks,
Welcome to the forum! WD45! Nice tractor! If you need parts I am pretty sure several of the parts suppliers on here would have the rebuild kit for the pump. I have gotten gaskets and seals from Sandy Lake (ask for Brenda) Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21377 |
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The screw I'm referring to is screw "A". If you don't check this out first, you could be removing the pump for no reason. Screw "A" must have the tip screwed into the dimple or pocket on the side of the pump to shut the pump OFF.
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FranksWD45PS ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 07 Nov 2019 Location: Michigan Points: 20 |
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Sugarmaker - Thanks I'll look around for Sandy Lake if I need parts.
DrAllis - I'll triple check the "A" lockout screw position tomorrow but I'm pretty sure I have it in the dimple. When I got the tractor I had to soak PB blaster into all the adjusters on the pump so they move easily how they are supposed to. It sure sounds like the noise is coming from the control housing, the rearmost body that has the dimple for the "A" screw. It might be easier to unbolt that from the pump (if the "A" screw is not the issue)versus pulling the whole pump to see whats going on. I just do not know what parts will come out if I decide to take that portion of the pump off. |
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21377 |
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The only part of the pump you can remove in chassis is the hold valve on top. Two bolts. The rest has to be disassembled on a bench with a vise.
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21377 |
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Last ditch effort on this problem would be to turn in screw "D" 100% while the engine is running and see if that will shut off the pump. If it does, return it to full out and see if it stays fixed or not.
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Dusty MI ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Charlotte, Mi Points: 5058 |
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If you are not far from me, and you would like I could take a look at it. Can't say that would prove much. I grew up on a '53 WD, and sold it in '65.
Dusty
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917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"
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Stan IL&TN ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Elvis Land Points: 6730 |
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The pump is not that hard to take apart but you need to go slow and lay the parts out one at a time in the order they were removed. Mine had broken springs so they were replaced along with o-rings and a couple of gaskets. Sand Lake was where I got everything from.
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson |
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FranksWD45PS ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 07 Nov 2019 Location: Michigan Points: 20 |
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Thanks all.
DrAllis - I took your advice. I think there is some progress. Tractor not started. Lift arms were in the up position, pressure on them. I bled the pump to push the arms back down. Started the tractor and screwed in the "D" screw as you said. I keep working the screw in and out until I finally got it all the way in. Arms still up while moving the quadrant lever up and down to see if it would do anything. I drove the tractor around for about a half our as I normally do just to run the tractor. Arms still staying up and cannot be pushed down. The next day the arms were down. Overnight the pressure went away. The current situation is the arms will raise very, very slowly when putting the quad lever up in lift mode. If I step on the lift arms while its trying to raise it too much weight and the arms do not lift. If I let it raise all the way with no load it will eventually go all the way up and stay up. And when I move the quad lever down the arms go down. So I think something in the pump is now freed up. The guy I bought the tractor from had it in the family for over 30 years. The last few years he drove it once a year just to run it. I dont think he moved the quad lever to use the lift so it needs a good workout. Next thing I'm going to do is go through the linkage setup in the manual again on pages 30-31 to make sure that is all correct. At least now the arms can be dropped using the quad lever as it supposed to. Maybe this will cure itself with more use. I'll keep you posted. Thanks |
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