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MattLF9 
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Location: Minnesota
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 Topic: WD45 diesel
Posted: 29 Jul 2022 at 4:45pm |
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Can't get my 45 diesel to run at all, sent the pump to two different shops and its definitely been rebuilt and calibrated($2500 basically wasted) and it acts like there is very little compression, took the head off and the casting number is 4506503 which is for a 262, doesn't this head have larger combustion chambers??
I found a different head with a casting number 4506603, is that a WD45 diesel casting number?
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DrAllis
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Posted: 29 Jul 2022 at 5:46pm |
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That engine can be compression tested. I would have pulled the tractor spinning the engine at higher speeds than a starter to try to get it to run before yanking the head. Sorry, cannot help you with the casting numbers.
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TramwayGuy
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Location: Northern NY
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Posted: 29 Jul 2022 at 6:26pm |
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A). Do you get smoke when cranking?
If the answer is no, then it’s not pumping fuel, the only question is why?
The supply pump is mounted right on the injection pump, and it is possible it’s either not plumbed correctly or it’s not pumping through the filters.
If you DO get smoke, then it’s possible the injection pump is not timed correctly.
More investigation warranted.
And compression can be checked with the proper equipment.
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MattLF9
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Posted: 29 Jul 2022 at 6:51pm |
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It's definitely timed correctly, I get TONS of white raw diesel smoke, I did have it running last year for a bit but it runs like crap and pours out white smoke all the time, it not off 180° either.
Injectors pop at 2000 psi.
This isn't my first rodeo, been doing pumps and diesel repairs for years.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 29 Jul 2022 at 7:04pm |
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Your post said " I can't get my WD45 diesel to run at all". Now, you say you had it running last year. So, did it run like crap last year?? or it runs like crap now ?? It's got the same cylinder head on it from last year, doesn't it ?? Better re-read what you wrote so it can be fully understood. I think those energy cell engines can run 180 out of time, but not run very well. But you knew that because it ain't your first rodeo.
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MattLF9
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Posted: 29 Jul 2022 at 7:19pm |
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I was using that pretty loosely, sorry.
It ran like crap then and nothings changed.
Yeah it's the same cylinder head, the only one I have.
The guy I bought it from used a half can of ether to get it running, I figured it was just an injection pump issue, it kind of was too.
Timing one is easy as you guys know, #1 on compression, line FP1 mark exactly in the center of the timing hole, position pointer up with the timing mark on pump drive hub.
George at DK diesel in Montevideo MN did the pump work and I trust his work.
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MattLF9
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Posted: 29 Jul 2022 at 7:34pm |
One thing to mention, it practically freewheeled when you turned it over with the starter, one piston has a .060"+ gap between it and the sleeve. And I've never seen sleeves sunk this bad in a block before, it definitely had to be addressed one way or another. I'll admit it, I got screwed 
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TramwayGuy
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Posted: 29 Jul 2022 at 7:51pm |
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“…Timing one is easy as you guys know, #1 on compression, line FP1 mark exactly in the center of the timing hole, position pointer up with the timing mark on pump drive hub...”
Well, that works perfectly if the timing mark on the drive hub is accurate. I would double check the start of delivery by removing the delivery valve and check for when the fuel flow stops on #1 (going from memory here). You will need a way to pressurize the line to the hydraulic head to get that flow. At the instant flow stops, the FP mark should be in the window.
Just my opinion, of course
(I had to do this method on my Oliver because the timing disc with the mark on it was broken loose from the hub. The early Olivers used the same style pump. The advantage they had was that they had a hand primer pump to pressurize the feed line.)
Edited by TramwayGuy - 29 Jul 2022 at 7:53pm
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 29 Jul 2022 at 7:54pm |
one piston has a .060"+ gap between it and the sleeve...... WHAT ??
and you want to know why it runs like CRAP ?
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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MattLF9
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Posted: 29 Jul 2022 at 8:29pm |
 TramwayGuy wrote:
“…Timing one is easy as you guys know, #1 on compression, line FP1 mark exactly in the center of the timing hole, position pointer up with the timing mark on pump drive hub...”
Well, that works perfectly if the timing mark on the drive hub is accurate. I would double check the start of delivery by removing the delivery valve and check for when the fuel flow stops on #1 (going from memory here). You will need a way to pressurize the line to the hydraulic head to get that flow. At the instant flow stops, the FP mark should be in the window.
Just my opinion, of course
(I had to do this method on my Oliver because the timing disc with the mark on it was broken loose from the hub. The early Olivers used the same style pump. The advantage they had was that they had a hand primer pump to pressurize the feed line.) |
Similar to air timing a Roosa Master, correct?
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A little CQB never hurt anybody.
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MattLF9
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Posted: 29 Jul 2022 at 8:32pm |
steve(ill) wrote:
<span style="color: rgb0, 0, 36; : rgb254, 252, 212;">one piston has a .060"+ gap between it and the sleeve......<b style=""> WHAT ??</span><span style="color: rgb0, 0, 36; : rgb254, 252, 212;"><b style="">
</span> <span style="color: rgb0, 0, 36; : rgb254, 252, 212;"><b style="">and you want to know why it runs like CRAP ?</span> |
It won't let me upload the photo of it, but it's hilarious 😆 Whoever put this together, they even put RTV on the energy cell caps 
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A little CQB never hurt anybody.
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