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WD45 Ammeter Question

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ssccrab View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Jan 2020
Location: KCK
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    Posted: 19 Jan 2020 at 4:38pm
Hey fellas. I'm starting to understand the wiring on this 1955 WD45. Have found a number of wiring diagrams for it. However, I can't understand why this old ammeter would have two or three wires on one post, and one wire on the other. I do have a new one ready to install, just trying to understand the wiring for this so that I can do it correctly. I also just want to make sure this is the correct diagram to go off of. Thanks for your help!






Edited by ssccrab - 19 Jan 2020 at 5:21pm
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan 2020 at 5:00pm
you can get power at the amp meter terminal to run accessories...might have a head lite wire on it...... the drawing is FINE if you use it.

Edited by steve(ill) - 19 Jan 2020 at 5:09pm
Trump Is Not A Lib or Conserv, He's a "Pragmatist." (someone who is practical and focused on reaching a goal. Has a straightforward, matter-of-fact approach and doesn't let emotion distract him or her
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan 2020 at 5:06pm
also your regulator shows 4 wires... some don't have the blue wire to the ignition switch... you might get power to the switch from the common terminal on the amp meter.
Trump Is Not A Lib or Conserv, He's a "Pragmatist." (someone who is practical and focused on reaching a goal. Has a straightforward, matter-of-fact approach and doesn't let emotion distract him or her
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rw View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rw Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan 2020 at 5:53pm
I think you may need a different drawing. I have  a wd, not a 45 but it is six volt positive ground and no solenoid for the starter. 
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Sugarmaker View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan 2020 at 7:24pm
ssccrab,
Maybe describe your goal for the electrical system on your tractor? Yes they were originally 6 volt positive ground systems. With 6 volt battery  6 volt gen, voltage regulator and ammeter and lights. And they did not have a selinoid. The pull handle activated the starter switch. Are you looking to go to 12 volt as in the diagram? 
As far as the number of wires coming off the ammeter. I would agree it could have been a hot wire for something on the tractor.
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Ford Jubilee, IH TD6 Many IH Cub Cadets
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Steve in NJ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan 2020 at 8:08pm
The diagram you're showing is a 12V Negative ground system. If you are going to stay with the 6V PG system, than you need the correct diagram. The original 6V PG system did not incorporate a Voltage Regulator, although a VR would be a nice upgrade for the 6V system. The OEM 6V system used a Reverse Current Relay or better known to the industry as a "cutout". Its only purpose in the system was to sever the Battery from the Gennie, so the Generator wouldn't act as a Dynamo and drain the Battery while the Tractor sits not being used. The OEM system used a multi-function Headight/Charging switch in the dash to increase or decrease the ground at the Gennie for charging.

An Ammeter is a flow meter which means you need to send full current through it in order for it to tell you something. The Ammeter is wired where the Battery is on the + side of the gauge and everything else (accessories) is off the - side of the gauge.  On the OEM system, the Headlight charging switch borrowed current from the - side of the Ammeter along with current for the Ignition switch to power up the ignition circuit if Distributor equipped.  I offer a complete 6V system for the WD/WD45 if interested. If you are deciding to go with a 12V system, I offer a kit for that to...    HTH
Steve@B&B
bb-customcircuits.com

39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'IB, 49'G, 50'WF, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jan 2020 at 5:40am
Your picture is the perfect example as to WHY you need to replace the fibre insulating 'washers' on the Ammeter posts !
You can clearly see rust around them,so moistures is /was there. This moisture eventually attacks the fibre washers and a small amount of current can flow from the battery to ground. Once current flows, it gets worse..It may take days or weeks, but ,hmm... battery's dead, arrgh.
When I replaced mine I used Nylon ( plastic) shouldered spacers AND an extra Nylon washer. I also lightly scratched up and painted the new  clamp
A small amount of never sieze or electrical grease  should be used too.
Ammeters have been given a bad rap, yet IF properly installed and maintained, they'll do their job for decades.


3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

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ssccrab View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ssccrab Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jan 2020 at 8:02am
Thank you for the replies and insight. Turns out mine is still on a 6v system, so with everyone's advice here, this should be easy to wire back up. The confusing part was the number of wire on the ammeter, but you guys cleared that right up. I finally found a manual and the wiring diagram inside it. Steve, what did you have to offer on the 6v system?
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Sugarmaker View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jan 2020 at 8:59am
ssccrab,
My advice would be to spend the money and upgrade to a new custom 12 volt system. I know a good fresh 6 volt system will work too. But after upgrading all of my W series tractors, the 12 volt system is the ticket. If your current 6 volt system is not in good shape now is the time. Yes you cant follow a factory wiring diagram. But folks on here and Steve can get you through it.
Just my 2 cents.
 Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Ford Jubilee, IH TD6 Many IH Cub Cadets
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jan 2020 at 9:09am
I agree , go 12 volt, negative ground ! Unless you 'have to' keep it original it's the best option. Be sure to replace 100% of the wiring !! ANY old wires WILL cause problems....
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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