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MN-Realtor-Farmer 
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 Topic: WD versus WD45 overhaul
Posted: 17 Dec 2016 at 1:10am |
I recently purchase a WD45 that has a WD block in it. I was hoping to have purchased a WD45 when I made the deal, but buyer beware on Craigslist. I only checked the serial number of the tractor (which is a 1956 WD45) but didn't go the extra step to check the engine block for the 6 bolt plate - live and learn.
I want to do a complete tear down and overhaul this spring and noticed tonight that the overhaul kits for the WD's tend to be more expensive than the WD45's. Since I wanted the HP of the WD45 anyway, and I already have the WD45 body and parts, I was wondering what the harm would be in upgrading the engine.
I did some studying tonight and was hoping that someone with more experience could weigh in on this for me. The 201 and 226 engines are essentially the same with the exception that the 226 has a different piston, and a different camshaft. The WD45 also had a larger carb and radiator, but I already have those since the tractor is a WD45 and the only thing that was swapped seems to be the block.
I need to buy an overhaul kit anyway, so the sleeves, pistons, rings, etc. would all be included if I bought the WD45 overhaul kit rather than the WD. A camshaft for a WD45 runs about $150 on ebay or I could purchase one from a guy here locally that has a lot of used parts. What am I missing, is it really this easy to get the extra horsepower if you are doing a complete overhaul anyway?
Edited by MN-Realtor-Farmer - 17 Dec 2016 at 1:12am
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MN-Realtor-Farmer
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Posted: 17 Dec 2016 at 1:19am |
I might have just answered my own question. It would appear that the difference in the two engines is not the camshaft but is rather the crankshaft. Those sell for roughly $550. Still to my main point though. If I swap the crankshaft and put the WD45 overhaul kit in, will I essentially have a WD45 with a 6 bolt plate on it?
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B26240
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Posted: 17 Dec 2016 at 5:56am |
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Yes crankshaft from a 45 will fit block with side plate. Check to see which head you have, short or tall. By this time in it's life it is possible many things have been switched. If indeed you have a WD45 could be someone changed blocks and all the internal parts are 45 already. If the engine is still all together you can check stroke by removeing spark plugs and then use a long plastic tye rap and measure the stroke while rotating engine. 45 has 4 1/2 inch and WD 4" stroke.
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DougS
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Posted: 17 Dec 2016 at 6:32am |
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The '45 has Power Crater pistons, no shims on the rods, the tall head breathed a little better and there were a few other differences. Even the newer WD engine didn't have the side plate. I suspect that someone simply replaced the engine.
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Lester
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Posted: 17 Dec 2016 at 6:45am |
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The radiators are the same size on WD's and 45's.
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Stan IL&TN
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Posted: 17 Dec 2016 at 10:55am |
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You would be better off selling this one and finding a good running WD45.
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy
1956 F40 Ferguson
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Gerald J.
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Posted: 17 Dec 2016 at 11:07am |
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One other test would be to run it on a dynamometer and see what its putting out for horsepower. My guess is that the innards are already WD45 in a WD block and it will run fine for a long time.
Gerald J.
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 17 Dec 2016 at 12:57pm |
 DougS wrote:
The '45 has Power Crater pistons, no shims on the rods, the tall head breathed a little better and there were a few other differences. Even the newer WD engine didn't have the side plate. I suspect that someone simply replaced the engine.
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I could be wrong but believe ALL WD's had the side plate but the last ones got the tall head.Solid block started on 45's
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79fordblake
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Posted: 17 Dec 2016 at 1:28pm |
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Check the stroke. That WD block may have WD45 internals. Either way they are fairly expensive to rebuild right. I could have bought two more tractors with all the money I have in just my WD45 engine. But it was my Grandpa's tractor so it's worth it to me.
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IBWD MIke
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Posted: 17 Dec 2016 at 3:22pm |
WD block, everything else 45, you can see the plate.  
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Bill_MN
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Posted: 17 Dec 2016 at 3:41pm |
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What is the current state of this tractor and what were you hoping for? If you just wanted a running work tractor then what Stan said rings true if you actually need a rebuild. If you're just looking for a project and want to rebuild just for fun well there's an abundance of parts and advice to be had, but you won't get your money back from a proper rebuild. I spent $3500+ on my WD engine but like with 79fordblake it was my gpa's tractor and I don't plan on ever selling anyway.
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1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow
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MN-Realtor-Farmer
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Posted: 17 Dec 2016 at 11:16pm |
I currently have 2 WD45's on the way so I am simply planning on fixing this one up and unloading it. I have deep convictions and a strong conscience so I can't bring myself to just unload the tractor on someone else. That said, I also don't want to spend a fortune fixing it up simply to sell it for an even greater loss. In the meantime I am enjoying learning a new hobby.
The tractor seems to run fine, just a little rough. It had a pretty nasty coolant leak at the water manifold so I started by removing the hood, intake/exhaust manifold, and the water manifold. I found that there were no gaskets on any of the ports for the exhaust manifold and that the ones at the water manifold had long since failed. From there I was curious to find out what condition the inside was in so I removed the valve cover and the head.
Some of the sleeves have a slight ridge around the tops where the piston stops (taper?) and some very slight black buildup (carbon?) in those areas as well. Cleaning out the carbon seems to be pretty easy and I checked out a cylinder hone from a local auto parts store and planned to run it around the top of the cylinders a couple of times to cut down on the taper. I don't expect perfection here and do understand that a purist would tell me to put in new sleeves, pistons, and rings, which I may still do, but in the short term I am going to try the less expensive route and see if I can get it running until springtime.
The head also had some carbon buildup and the number 2 piston's larger valve (exhaust?) had a decent amount of carbon buildup (3/16") on both its face and the stem. The rest of the valves seemed to be okay, but with varying amounts of carbon. I plan on dipping each of them and removing everything that I can and then lapping the valves with some compound. Again, not a purist restoration, but certainly better than what it was.
I was also having some trouble with the throttle not engaging the carburetor very well so I removed the radiator to get at the governor cover. I was wondering if maybe I hadn't broken a spring or weight in the governor, but was stumped once I opened that up. In the end, it turned out that I needed to readjust the throttle linkage so that it would push and pull correctly. Once I took care of that, it would appear that the throttle is pushing and pulling on the carb as expected, but I haven't had the tractor back together to give it a trial run.
I will check the stoke of the engine tomorrow.
Can anyone give me the rough dimensions of the short versus the tall head for these engines?
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 17 Dec 2016 at 11:47pm |
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basically 3in and 4in.there's no mistaking it and the valve covers are opposite....tall head short cover and visa-versa
Edited by SteveM C/IL - 17 Dec 2016 at 11:49pm
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Gerald J.
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Posted: 18 Dec 2016 at 9:55am |
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The tool for removing that ridge at the top of the cylinders left by ring wear is called a "ridge reamer". If the ridge is noticeable the ridge has to be removed to get pistons and rings out without breaking pistons.
Gerald J.
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79fordblake
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Posted: 18 Dec 2016 at 1:20pm |
Here is a pic of a tall head. Sorry about the plastic didnt want to take it out. Cost me $513 to have that head done. 
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Lon(MN)
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Posted: 18 Dec 2016 at 1:32pm |
The engine pictured above has the tall head. Sounds like you are having fun. Feel free to call for another point of view.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 18 Dec 2016 at 4:36pm |
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A hone from an auto parts store will do nothing but cause more damage, UNLESS you ream the ridge and remove the pistons first.
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WF owner
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Posted: 18 Dec 2016 at 6:14pm |
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Were the pistons "flat top" or "Power Crater" (recessed "bowl" in the top of the piston)? If the pistons are flat, it is almost certainly a 201 (WD) engine. If they are Power Crater, they could be either but flat top pistons will yield a lot more power with a 4" stroke.
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79fordblake
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Posted: 18 Dec 2016 at 6:49pm |
Here is a pic of a PowerCrater. 
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Allis dave
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Posted: 19 Dec 2016 at 10:12am |
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If you do any reaming or get any dirt at all into the cylinders, you need to pull the pistons and clean everything up. You don't want any dirt or metal to scar the sleeve walls between the rings/piston/and sleeve. I think you could do a decent rebuilt for $2000 - $2500 as long as you didn't have any major issues.
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Allis dave
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Posted: 19 Dec 2016 at 12:24pm |
If you have some free time, read this. This is the progress of my rebuild. I'm still not quite finished yet. http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=126761&PN=1&title=wd45-rebuild-progressThis is another good rebuild read from a couple years ago. http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=118485&title=201-engine-assemblyI also highly recommend getting the original Allis service manual. This is what the dealers used back when. This is much better than the IT manuals. You'll NEED some of the information in here, like how to correctly install the wrist pins. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Allis-Chalmers-WD-WD45-Tractor-Service-Repair-Manual-/191814341451?hash=item2ca906934b:g:q54AAOxyoA1RLNN2
Edited by Allis dave - 19 Dec 2016 at 12:41pm
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TedBuiskerN.IL.
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Posted: 19 Dec 2016 at 5:28pm |
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The tall head actually came out in mid 1951, all late 51, 52, and later should have had the tall head. By the parts book.
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Most problems can be solved with the proper application of high explosives.
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MN-Realtor-Farmer
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Posted: 19 Dec 2016 at 7:15pm |
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I have the short head at 3". Will a wd45 overhaul kit, and crankshaft work with the short head, or is it necessary to find a tall head somewhere?
The pistons are also flat top. I have not had a chance to measure the stroke yet, but am almost certain that it is 4".
Edited by MN-Realtor-Farmer - 19 Dec 2016 at 7:19pm
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Bill_MN
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Posted: 19 Dec 2016 at 9:27pm |
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Short or tall head doesn't matter, just need the right length studs. The tall head was just an improved cooling design and moved the spark plug more toward the center of the cylinder, in reality it made very little difference.
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1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow
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WF owner
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Posted: 20 Dec 2016 at 7:39am |
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Some guys do use flat-top pistons with a 4.5" stroke (very high compression and probably can't use "pump gas) for pulling, but I believe some of the top of the piston has to be cut (for clearance).
Sure you can use the existing 3" head with the "WD45 kit". I, personally, would take the head to a local, reputable machine shop and have the surfaces (mating surface to the block and manifold surface)milled straight and have the valves ground (if they are in good shape) and seats checked.
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