WD hydraulics

Looking at a WD with a hydraulic problem.

I asked about this awhile ago, but got sidetracked for, oh, a few YEARS.

Halfway up the quadrant, you can feel a detent. I am working under the assumption that this is HOLD. As you raise the lever, it should raise the arms in proportion to lever position, right? By that I mean just above the middle detent would raise slow, all the way up would raise fast.

Lowering should work just the opposite.

On the traction booster decal on the battery box, I set it up for the HOLD position.

What I want it to do, is raise, hold, and lower.

O.K., enough rambling. The problem is with the lowering part. Raising works fine, and holding does too. When you move it to lower, there is no "easy does it". When you go below the detent, she goes to full drop and the implement crashes to earth.

Whats the culprit and is it serviceable with the pump in place or do I have to remove the pump?

Thanks in advance.

I have about 275lbs of weight on my rear blade. After a couple trips across the lot while pulling snow, I can get fairly good with mine to where you don't even hear it touch the concrete.

So, I don't think it is just a wd thing since mine can go slow enough to be a gentle drop. It is really a finesse thing though.

Hold on the other hand doesn't seem to work for me either.

 I think you should feel fortunate that the hold position works  A lot of em don't after 60 years. On my 45, if I pull it just a bit down from the hold position, I can somewhat control the speed of the drop. It is touchy though.

Thanks a lot for the help. I may not get to it until this summer, but those valves may be the way to go....

The cylinders were plumbed that way because when you put the cultivator on, the one raise the front first, then the other raises the back.  The front drops first and then the back so you can control the cultivator when you get to the end rows without leaving tracks from the back wheels, or plow out corn in the end rows with the back gang.
 If you add that restrictor valve, and don't plan on cultivating, hook both line together on one rear port.


Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 06 Jun 2016 at 5:07pm

Here's a picture I took of a WD over at Hutch. The steel line is for the remote ram, and the two cylinder hoses are hooked up the way mine was.

If both lines for the cylinders are plumbed to the front port of hyd. valve with a tee you will have better hold and control lift/lowering. I have had issues with holding lift arms up on two different WD'S and solved issue by plumbing cylinders to front hyd port.

littlemarv is correct.  Right cylinder to the front right.  Left cylinder to the left rear.  If you don't have a remote valve, nothing is hooked up to the left front.

90% of the time, the whole works is thrown off because it is not set correctly.  Don't assume it is because they wear over time and nothing works after a while.  Get your book out and follow the directions.  Make sure your detent hole is cleaned out and very visible.  That is the key!

connect to eather front port with a tee or connect one hose to each front port if nothing else is connected to a front port, will work the same. good luck

littlemarv wrote: If that's the case, then when you have a remote ram, one lift arm and the ram on the implement are hooked together and the other lift arm (plumbed into the rear port) is controlled differently?

The pump pressure is the same on all 3 ports. No matter how you hook the 2 lift arm cylinders up, the arms will go up before a remote ram will pick up any kind of a load. Oil goes to the easiest place first.

My remote connection is original. I plugged the left rear port and connected a diverter valve to the right port. My loader cylinders run off one side of the diverter and the lift arm cylinders runs off the other. When the diverter is centered, the remote line can be used while keeping the lift arms up and the loader up.


Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 16 Jun 2016 at 3:16pm

Ok, that makes sense. Very good explanation. I think I will leave the hoses hooked up the way they are, put the valves in, and add a remote line. Thanks much!

Is the loader slow? I thought old WDs didn't have much for volume. Is it a trip bucket or are there four cylinders?

please referance Allis-Chalmers operating instructions book page #34, hydrolic system, rams, when left ram is used in connection with hold position the ram hose MUST BE ATTACHED TO ONE OF THE FORWARD HOLES CLOSEST TO SCREW "C". This is how the system was designed to work.

OK I will post this one more time. Like it's been said above set all the linkages first and if you are not Ok with how the lift is working then set it like in the left side of the book.

I put a tee on the right front port connecting both cylinders. The RG630 cultivator was too much hanging on one lift cyl in hold position.Would put a twist on rockshaft.My wD seems worse on the "breakover" when lowering than my 45.WD has loader,if wanting to slowly lower a loaded bucket,it takes two hands on the lever & quadrant but can be done.The adjustments for the linkages makes a difference.Mine seem to work best when not exactly what the instructions prescribe.