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WD burning out kill switch.

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exSW View Drop Down
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    Posted: 05 Nov 2022 at 5:44pm
'52 WD with distributor.
Converted to 12v. 
Still positive ground.
Generator puts out 13.6 charging.
12v coil with an in line resistor.
Lights work.
All wires chased and enclosed in loom.
Keeps burning out kill switches.
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MACK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 2022 at 8:52pm
You say kill switch. It should be a off-on switch with 12v to one side with the other wire going to resister. A kill switch grounds current from mag.                   MACK


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 2022 at 9:04pm
I don't know how you have your Tractor wired, but if you're using a toggle type switch for a Ignition kill switch, toggles are only rated at 10-15 amps. Put in a high amp switch like a key switch or push/pull like a Cole Hersee or equivilent.  Have the Generator checked at a local shop to see what amperage it's pushing out. If it's pushing some high amperage out of it, that could be why you're cooking switches also....
Steve@B&B
39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote exSW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 2022 at 9:19pm
Originally posted by MACK MACK wrote:

You say kill switch. It should be a off-on switch with 12v to one side with the other wire going to resister. A kill switch grounds current from mag.                   MACK


That's how it's wired. It is indeed an "on/off" switch.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote exSW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 2022 at 9:24pm
Originally posted by Steve in NJ Steve in NJ wrote:

I don't know how you have your Tractor wired, but if you're using a toggle type switch for a Ignition kill switch, toggles are only rated at 10-15 amps. Put in a high amp switch like a key switch or push/pull like a Cole Hersee or equivilent.  Have the Generator checked at a local shop to see what amperage it's pushing out. If it's pushing some high amperage out of it, that could be why you're cooking switches also....
Steve@B&B

It's cooked both. The one it came with. The push/pull from DJ's. The brass Marine grade push/pull,a three way on /off /on (both sides) and the latest  a rubber shielded toggle from the starter/alternator shop. But I think your onto something with the amps. I'll put a handheld meter on it tomorrow.


Edited by exSW - 05 Nov 2022 at 9:50pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote exSW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Nov 2022 at 10:06am
Checked the amps (running) at the switch with my ES 585 Multimeter. 10 amp setting. Blew the multimeters internal fuse . So I may be on to something.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Nov 2022 at 4:41pm
wire coming off the switch ONLY feeds the coil  ?   Dont want too much load thru that toggle... just the coil / distributor, which should be minimal..

12 v coil with "NO INTERNAL RESISTOR"  ??  That works, but a new design which ELIMINATES the external resistor is a good long term plan. ... maybe thats why the coil is pulling too many amps ?
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote exSW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Nov 2022 at 5:34pm
Originally posted by steve(ill) steve(ill) wrote:

wire coming off the switch ONLY feeds the coil  ?   Dont want too much load thru that toggle... just the coil / distributor, which should be minimal..





12 v coil with "NO INTERNAL RESISTOR"  ??  That works, but a new design which ELIMINATES the external resistor is a good long term plan. ... maybe thats why the coil is pulling too many amps ?


That wire only feed the coil.The coil does have an internal resistor. The tractor came to me with a bad coil. Already had the in line resistor. I replaced the old coil with  a resistor equiped one. I've been messing with it off and on all day. This system doesn't have a regulator, just a cutout. I took the cover off and the cutout seems to work properly. 

The generator delivers power to the battery through the same starter post that the starter switch pulls  power from and the coil on/off pulls power from.


Edited by exSW - 06 Nov 2022 at 5:43pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Nov 2022 at 6:10pm
normally a cutout does not go with a 12 volt system.. On a 6 v system, the light switch with a resistor acts as a current limiter... You have NOTHING if your using a cutout on a 12v system and no regulation of current..

If you have a 12v coil with INTERNAL resistor.. you dont need the external resistor..


a 12v generator should be wired something like this.. You need to REGULATE the voltage and current outputs..




Edited by steve(ill) - 06 Nov 2022 at 6:18pm
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote exSW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Nov 2022 at 6:49pm
Originally posted by steve(ill) steve(ill) wrote:

normally a cutout does not go with a 12 volt system.. On a 6 v system, the light switch with a resistor acts as a current limiter... You have NOTHING if your using a cutout on a 12v system and no regulation of current..

If you have a 12v coil with INTERNAL resistor.. you dont need the external resistor..


a 12v generator should be wired something like this.. You need to REGULATE the voltage and current outputs..



Well I'm sorting my way through someone elses mess.
I had suspected something  got lost in the 12v conversion. The burnt out coil, there was a master cutoff blade switch on the battery plus the repositioned on/off switch. 
So I have to install a regulator,eliminate the cutout and wire accordingly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill_MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Nov 2022 at 6:57pm
Unless you're trying to look somewhat original I'd start over with an alternator and wire it like this

1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote exSW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Nov 2022 at 7:11pm
Probably going to stick with the gennie for now. Wiring in a regulator and rerouting a couple wires is quick,cheap and easy. When it  eventually gets repainted I'll do the upgrade then.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Nov 2022 at 8:03pm
drawing shows a regulator with a "L" terminal.. You may get one that does not have that... L is just a another feed from the BATTERY... so use the BAT terminal..

Since you have a POSITIVE GROUND... you need to get a regulator that it setup for POSITIVE GROUND... or consider just changing to NEG ground... Depends on the REG you buy..
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Nov 2022 at 8:07pm
Specifications

  • This external voltage regulator has 4 terminals (lights, battery, field and generator).
  • Designed for A type circuits in positive or negative ground systems
  • 7 to 9 output amps

Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote exSW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2022 at 8:02pm
Originally posted by steve(ill) steve(ill) wrote:

Specifications

  • This external voltage regulator has 4 terminals (lights, battery, field and generator).
  • Designed for A type circuits in positive or negative ground systems
  • 7 to 9 output amps

That's the regulator I used. Replaced the ammeter gauge and wired accordingly. Everything works and it's running ten amps off a cold start and then settles back to 4-5 with the lights on. Thanks for all the help.


Edited by exSW - 12 Nov 2022 at 8:03pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2022 at 8:10pm
Clap   Clap   ... did you eliminate the RESISTOR in the line to your NEW Coil ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote exSW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2022 at 8:55am
Originally posted by steve(ill) steve(ill) wrote:

Clap   Clap   ... did you eliminate the RESISTOR in the line to your NEW Coil ?
No.  Would that be an issue?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2022 at 9:50am
There is suppose to be a resistor INSIDE the coil on a new 12 v unit... If you have a OLD coil with no INTERNAL resistor, then you need the OUTSIDE resistor... Normally when you buy a NEW coil it has INTERNAL and you can eliminate the outside coil.
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