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Nautyboss 
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Location: Arkansas
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 Topic: wd bearings
Posted: 22 Aug 2012 at 4:53pm |
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I have a 52' WD and I don't know which bearings it is supposed to have, if they are standard, .010, .020, etc. How do I know.
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dave63
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Location: Lineboro Md
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Posted: 22 Aug 2012 at 5:04pm |
If the crank was never ground and doesn't need to be ground is needs standard. If it was ground or if you have it ground you need to order bearings to match the crank.
You need to measure the diameter with a micrometer and compare with the specs in the service manual
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The universal answer to all questions is yes, how much do you want to spend?
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Don(MO)
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Posted: 22 Aug 2012 at 7:03pm |
Dave summed it up about the brearing.
One think to add to Dave's post, The rods and mains in a WD are shimmed to spec.
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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Nautyboss
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Posted: 22 Aug 2012 at 7:24pm |
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Where is the best place to get a service manual that will have all the specs I need?
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Gary
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Posted: 22 Aug 2012 at 7:35pm |
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Nautyboss
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Posted: 22 Aug 2012 at 9:41pm |
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Thanks, I've got the manual ordered. Can you tell me where I can get the main and rod bearings?
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David Maddux
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Posted: 23 Aug 2012 at 6:28am |
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We have some excellent vendors on this site. Dave.
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dave63
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Posted: 23 Aug 2012 at 6:36am |
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Wertz power equipment .com
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The universal answer to all questions is yes, how much do you want to spend?
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nella(Pa)
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Posted: 23 Aug 2012 at 8:19am |
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Some machine shops will stamp the measurement on the crank after they machine it.
Edited by nella(Pa) - 23 Aug 2012 at 8:20am
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 23 Aug 2012 at 9:15am |
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WD's originally had shims for the rod and main caps. If the bearings wore over time and shims were removed, you would have no idea without capping them up and measuring the bore. If the bore is undersized (shims removed) you will ruin a good set of bearings by clamping them up. So it is important to not only measure the crank diameters but also the bore the bearing fits in. It is also possible that the rods have been re-sized without the shims and the block line bored without the shims.
All these measurements are CRITICAL for a lasting rebuild and need to be made in tenths of thousands of an inch.
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LouSWPA
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Posted: 23 Aug 2012 at 9:23am |
I usually check bearing clearance with Plasticgage, that accounts for the journal and bore.
Since wear is not semetrical, you need to check clearence in two places on the crank, 90 degress apart. and, as already been pointed out, on WD, make sure you maintain the shims when measuring. If you need to have the crank turned, you can eliminate the shims in the process, if you want
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I am still confident of this;
I will see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.
Wait for the Lord;
be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord. Ps 27
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 23 Aug 2012 at 9:27am |
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Lou, you can not eliminate the shims by grinding the crank. The bore the bearing fits in is round originally with the shim. If they have been removed, it's because the bearing wears top and bottom. If you want to eliminate the shims, you MUST bore the rod or main round, to size, without the shims in place.
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GregLawlerMinn
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Posted: 23 Aug 2012 at 11:41am |
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Many bearing mfgrs etch the size on the back of the inserts; std, 0.10, 0.20, etc. Yours may be marked. Alwaays a good idea to mic the journals; rods and mains. If you want to rebuild using bearings without the shims you need to line bore the mains and rebore the connecting rods. Any good engine rebuild shop can do this at a reasonble cost. You can also remove the wick from the back of the crank, tap and plug it and install a bearing type pilot bushing in the flywheel.
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What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2.
With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC
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Nautyboss
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Posted: 23 Aug 2012 at 12:59pm |
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I'm not sure what you mean by the wick (I'm new to this), but hopefully the service manual will have the info I need.
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Nautyboss
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Posted: 23 Aug 2012 at 1:02pm |
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Thanks everyone for you posts. When it comes to the shims, will the service manual have the info on where and how many goes where; I'm not sure they are all there.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 23 Aug 2012 at 1:13pm |
WICK- The crankshaft is drilled for oil passages. The back of the crank has a wick in the hole to allow enough oil to weep into the bronze pilot bushing in the flywheel. You can replace that bushing with a sealed bearing and plug the oil hole off. SHIMS- In my experience, if you put the original amount of shim back in a cap that has been run with less than original, you will not have a round hole for the bearing to set in. The best thing to do is have the block line bored. What I did was cap things up, measure the bore 3 ways and shim to within .002 of being round. Then I honed the bores to the proper size. Call me cheap, but I had the tools to do it instead of paying for the machine shop.
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B26240
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Posted: 23 Aug 2012 at 7:06pm |
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Boss sounds like this is your first time into one of these, may I sugest two things - one read the manual r.e. bearing install to get a understanding of what they are talking about shims etc then number two take the block and crank to a rebuilder and ask them to measure AND look at the crank for roughness also have them install new cam bushing. parts for a rebuild are expensive and so is labor to have them do some of the work but if you mess up the result could be bad. I have done probably a dozen of these overhauls but still take the crank in to have it checked out since this is what they do every day .
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jboettcher
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Posted: 25 Sep 2017 at 10:15am |
Question. When replacing bearings, and if the wire is still on the main bearing bolts, cant yhe smae size bearings be installed and the smae number of shimms reinstalled? Thanks
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DrAllis
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Posted: 25 Sep 2017 at 10:57am |
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A "shim stack" is used at 8 locations on the four connecting rods and six locations on the main bearing caps. Each new "shim stack" is .010" thick. Each new "shim stack" consists of FOUR thin shims that are .0025" thick and are glued together for the total thickness of .010". The design premise was to peel off one thin shim at a time to make up for bearing wear. The safety wire on the bolts is always replaced when working on the bearings, so that doesn't mean anything. Grind the crank. Get new matching bearings to the freshly ground crank size. Replace all shim stacks with new. You're good to go for the next 30 or more years.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 25 Sep 2017 at 5:12pm |
 jboettcher wrote:
Question. When replacing bearings, and if the wire is still on the main bearing bolts, cant yhe smae size bearings be installed and the smae number of shimms reinstalled? Thanks |
My WC had been rebuilt at least 3 times before I took it apart. It had wires on the caps and does now too after I finished it. The wire is a common safety measure to keep the nuts from vibrating loose and has nothing to do with the shape of the bearing or journal. You could do that, if you are not interested in a proper rebuild. The bearing isn't the only thing that wears. The journals wear and to properly fit a new bearing most likely need polished or ground.
Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 25 Sep 2017 at 5:18pm
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