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WD alternator

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Sam (WI) View Drop Down
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    Posted: 18 Apr 2017 at 7:55pm
I recently bought a WD at a consignment sale and have been working on getting it ready to work. I can't for the life of me figure out why it isn't charging. It is converted to 12 volts with a delco 12si alternator. The battery post of the alternator is wired to the lug on the starter switch. The #2 connection is jumped to the battery post of the alternator. The #1 connection is wired to a toggle on/off ignition switch. I have a warning light installed in the wire between the alternator and the switch. The warning light is on when i turn the ignition switch on. I have 12.6 volts at the battery lug on the alternator and both of the terminals on the alternator connector. The warning light stays on the whole time the tractor is running and the alternator is not charging the battery. If I connect a jumper wire right after my warning light to the positive post of the battery the alternator starts charging and if I twist the to #1 and the light back together the light goes out and it continues to charge. Is their anything I'm missing? Is my problem likely due to the warning light? (Picture of the warning light)
 
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Gerald J. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gerald J. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Apr 2017 at 8:41pm
The light in the wire from the ignition switch acts as a resistor to keep the alternator from back feeding the ignition system when the ignition switch is turned off and the engine is running. Your lamp may have too much resistance to get the alternator started charging. I think it only takes 10 ohms or so to be effective at allowing the engine to stop. Another alternative is a 1 amp silicon diode, like a 1N4004 or a 3 amp diode that is structurally stronger. Cathode of the diode to the alternator. This is acting like a one wire alternator set up as a 3 wire which is handy for not having to rev the motor to get the alternator to start charging. Another way to get this starting function is to replace the lamp with an oil pressure switch that has floating terminals and closes on oil pressure rise. Connect to the oil plumbing with a pipe T or whatever plumbing it takes to get the pressure to the gauge and to the switch. I don't remember the part number but I know NAPA had a suitable switch years ago.

Gerald J.
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jaybmiller View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Apr 2017 at 8:44pm
some 'warning' lights are made with LEDs and will not necessarily work as they don't draw enough current..
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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wfmurray View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wfmurray Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Apr 2017 at 8:57pm
I put a one wire alt on my B and it would not rev enough to excite it.I run a wire from alt to panel and put a normal open switch on it .Now I crank and pull switch on and it starts charging and I turn switch loose and it continue to charge. It will drain batt with engine stopped if switch is in on pos .
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Apr 2017 at 10:00pm
I don't use the light bulb, I use a 10 ohm 10 watt resistor from Radio Shack for $1.00
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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corbinstein View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote corbinstein Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Apr 2017 at 6:54am
Better grab a bunch of what you need from Radio Shack. Our local is closing. Might be over for them as I've been hearing for a while....
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DougS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Apr 2017 at 7:00am
Originally posted by wfmurray wfmurray wrote:

I put a one wire alt on my B and it would not rev enough to excite it.I run a wire from alt to panel and put a normal open switch on it .Now I crank and pull switch on and it starts charging and I turn switch loose and it continue to charge. It will drain batt with engine stopped if switch is in on pos .

This works. If you're afraid of leaving the switch in the wrong position you can use either a momentary toggle or a push button switch.
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Chris (swIA) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chris (swIA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Apr 2017 at 9:02am
I use a double pole switch with one side to the alternator and one side to the coil.
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DougS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Apr 2017 at 10:44am
Originally posted by Chris (swIA) Chris (swIA) wrote:

I use a double pole switch with one side to the alternator and one side to the coil.

You can do the same with an automotive-type key switch. Use the ACC terminal for the alternator exciter. Using the IGN terminal gets you locked in an ignition feedback loop.
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Gerald J. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gerald J. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Apr 2017 at 12:07pm
I received an e-mail from Radio Shack this morning, been getting them about every three days, 60% off on all the store stock except for cell phones. I went to their web page to identify stores where I might be in the next few days and there is a notice that can be clicked on of bankruptcy. They have already filed chapter 11. Figure closing at least 200 stores.

Since the Tandy importing company bought the original Radio Shack that really knew radio going back to about 1917, Radio Shack has suffered from importitus and plain stupidity. They also bought Walter Ashe Radio in St. Louis and Allied Electronics for their retail audio stores, and instantly deleted all the domestic audio products replacing them with Pacific Rim imports. That operation went bankrupt a few years ago and the stores were taken over by a new management that has even less knowledge of radio, electronics, and electricity and the store stock reflects that lack of knowledge.

With few local stores, Jameco Electronics has 100 times the components selections. All Electronics has a fair collection and both have good online web pages. Then there are Mouser and Digi-Key that will sell in small or large quantities without a minimum order size and are near the top of the lists of big electronics distributors.

Gerald J.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Apr 2017 at 12:20pm
I use a double pole double throw switch... In one position, the alternator gets is "signal" to start charging, and the ground to the mag is open to run..... when you throw the switch to CLOSE the ground to the mag and stop the motor, the switch also OPENS the alternator signal wire to stop charging and no drain when motor dead.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Sam (WI) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sam (WI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Apr 2017 at 4:38pm
I will measure the resistance of the lamp when I am at the tractor next. Does anybody have a part number or source for an idiot light that would work? Otherwise I will use the double pole switch which I have on my C, but I wanted to be able to see that the alternator is working at a glance. 
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