WD & 45 Engine Differances

The plate on the side of the motor is a WD motor, in the later part of 1952 they started with the newer constant mesh trans, ( curved shifter) pre 52s the had the older sliding gear ( straight shifter). The four bolt wide front didn't come out until late 55 I believe when they came out with the 45 diesel . So someone has changed yours out.

Obviously not my research:

As far as the engine itself, you can easily drop a 45 crank in the 201 block, put 45 pistons in and have basically a 45 engine. Without checking your crankshaft, there is no way of knowing what you have. All things can be altered as your wide front has been.

   WOW ,thanks for the help guys!  Just a little follow up as I said the Ser# is 134825 which should make it a 1953 & it has aside plate on the block.  But it has a 4" head, a 45 manifold & carb & late model cast dist. housing.  Yet there is no bypass hose from the water pump to the hesd.  If it weren't for the block plate & Ser# the entire rest of the tractor has 45 charactoristics grill shutters, trany,fender height,wheel width, etc.   Maybe it's a change over hybrid, or some old farmer  (like me) spent all his extra time out in the shop up dating his Equipment.  Keeps me out trouble with the wife & out of the bars!  THanks ;  Housemover

Late model WD's had the taller WD-45 cylinder head from the Factory and no bypass hose was used on the thermostat. This happened at WD engine s/n 289,000 & up. Your chassis s/n is 134,825 which makes it a 1953 model WD (bent gearshift/constant mesh trans gears), not a WD-45, so it should have a WD block in it. WD-45's started at s/n 146,607 and went on to 235,000 or so. The fact that it has a WD45 manifold is of no consequence, as that is what is commonly available and directly replaces a WD manifold. It would be interesting to see which carburetor and air cleaner it has.....WD45's are different than a WD.

  Started rewireing today for 12 Volt on the 53 WD.  Going to leave the coil & starter alone (puting a resistor on the coil).  Going to leave it "positive ground" like my D-15 II & D-17 IV .  But can"t deside wether or not to use a generator or alternator But I sure hope to not alter the lower part of the radiator cowl!  Has any of you been through this process?  Thanks ;  Housemover

If you're interested in form, go with positive ground and use a generator. If you're interested in function, go with negative ground and use an alternator. If you change the polarity remember to swap the ammeter and coil leads.

housemover wrote: Doug,  I under stand that the ammeter would read wrong, but why the coil leads?  Housemover

You want the spark to jump from the inner electrode to the outer electrode of the spark plug. The inner electrode is made of a metal that is less likely to erode. If you don't switch the coil polarity the spark will jump backward, eroding the outer electrode.

Edit: You could purchase double platinum spark plugs and it won't matter, but why spend the extra $$ when you don't have to?


Edited by DougS - 21 Aug 2015 at 10:29am