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Redwood 
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Joined: 16 Jan 2012
Location: Ontario
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 Topic: WC differential and final drive
Posted: 29 Sep 2012 at 9:49pm |
Got a chance to tear down the WC some more Has any one got some advise as to the best way to pull the final drive shafts and tear down the differential. Could the brake drum be fozen in place or am I missing a retainer/ snap ring / set screw. A lot of grease and dirt it was hard to tell. Also do the final drive safts need to be pulled to remove the front cover off the differential? Any advise would be great.
Edited by Redwood - 29 Sep 2012 at 10:59pm
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Gary in Texas
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Burkburnett, TX
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Posted: 30 Sep 2012 at 6:16am |
The brake drums do have a set screw.
You do have to pull the shafts that the brake drums are on to pull the differential.
Edited by Gary in Texas - 30 Sep 2012 at 6:18am
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Redwood
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Posted: 30 Sep 2012 at 7:41am |
Thanks I thought so, Thanks for the reply. I was looking at what I thought was a set screw. how to get at it to take the set screw out is the next question, I saw what look like a square head but I don't see any way to get on it with anything to turn it. This could be tricky.
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B26240
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Joined: 21 Nov 2009
Location: mn
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Posted: 30 Sep 2012 at 7:45am |
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Red if you remove the complete finaldrive assembly (one piece at a time) including the gear cover back plate you then can remove the pinion shaft bearing cage pinion shaft and brake drum as a assembly. Not that hard just make sure you have plenty of rags as it is a little messy. after the pinion shaft is on the bench it will be much easier to remove the brake drum to install new grease seal and maybe the bearing (outer) if needed . When you remove the gear cover back plate make note of where one of the bolts goes that has a hole in the center of it , I think it is to vent the housing.
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Redwood
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Posted: 30 Sep 2012 at 7:58am |
Thanks B26240 I have the finals off and yes it is messy. That old grease has to be just thicken crude oil what a mess lol. Maybe from all the rust but I did not see any way to pull the brake drum out the end. Does the entire bearing holder come out then? I did notice the bolt with the hole, Though if it is supposed to vent, They would not have been working as they are packed solid. Every thing seems to be working good, but I want to inspect it before painting.
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B26240
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Joined: 21 Nov 2009
Location: mn
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Posted: 30 Sep 2012 at 3:07pm |
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Red -- yes the bearing holder (cage) comes out use a bar from the brake compartment to get it started moving. After the pinion shaft assembly is out what worked for me to remove the brake drum was to loosen the square headed lock bolt and then useing a hardwood block laying on the floor and holding the pinion shaft vertical tap (more like slam) the pinion shaft up and down into wood block a few times, I have done several and it worked for me. As for the grease it was 250 wt. so thick to begin with and like you said like tar now. With the crude cork seal they had it's hard to imagin any oil staying in there.
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Redwood
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Posted: 30 Sep 2012 at 6:30pm |
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thanks I'll give it a try next weekend won't be back to it until then. If I'm lucky, the beans are coming off now so might even be winter.
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TomMN
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Elbow Lake, MN
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Posted: 30 Sep 2012 at 9:28pm |
Here is a link to the pictures of my RC finals, the fit of the parts is the same so the pictures should be relevant. I did the same thing with my WC, but I didn't take as many pictures. http://home.comcast.net/~old_allis/ac-RC-chassis2.html
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Redwood
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Posted: 01 Oct 2012 at 12:27pm |
Thanks for the pictures Tom.
How did you clean your metal? did you have someone blast it or do it yourself. I bought a blaster, but would be a long time getting anything that clean. I've had to resort to a three step process and a lot off time and would be hard pressed to say mine was that clean.
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SteveM C/IL
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
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Posted: 01 Oct 2012 at 12:48pm |
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Tom has the best step by step pictures period.His work is also above and beyond. As hard as I could try,I couldn't match it. Some people have it and some people don't.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
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Posted: 01 Oct 2012 at 12:56pm |
Redwood, read up on rust removal by electrolysis at this link. http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp
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Redwood
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Posted: 01 Oct 2012 at 1:42pm |
Thank you
I have and still am using electrolysis for the smaller parts. I don't have any way to set up for large parts like the differential / hood / fenders.
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TomMN
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Posted: 01 Oct 2012 at 2:01pm |
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Thanks for all those comments, I blast the stuff myself. Some pieces take a lot of time, others clean up fairly quickly.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 01 Oct 2012 at 5:57pm |
Tom's pictures  Tom's restorations I had a 55 gallon barrel and did my block in that. The differential housing got cleaned by had and with wire wheels on the angle grinder. I think I did sand blast a good part of the differential after removing years of gunk.
I have heard of guys digging a hole in the ground, lining it with plastic and using that for a bigger electrolysis tank.
Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 01 Oct 2012 at 6:54pm
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JoeM(GA)
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Cumming,GA
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Posted: 01 Oct 2012 at 6:53pm |
55 gallon plastic barrels are great, but the 275 gallon totes that are everywhere these days are the perfect thing for the bigger parts. 
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Allis Express North Georgia
41 WC,48 UC Cane,7-G's,
Ford 345C TLB
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Redwood
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Posted: 01 Oct 2012 at 7:14pm |
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what kind of electrical source are you using for that much material?
How much did that cost you Joe?
Edited by Redwood - 01 Oct 2012 at 7:26pm
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Redwood
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Posted: 01 Oct 2012 at 7:25pm |
believe it or not the best thing I've found is the dremel flex cord and a wire wheel, polishes up nice and is extremely quick but those dam little wheels are pricey and were out quick. I used it for the carb and did the whole carb in about ten minutes. cam up nice. Faster then anything else even blasting, because there is not prep. I could do the whole tractor ( aside from block and header) that way quicker then anything else. There is also a 3m paint remover wheel that is excelent but also breaks down on anything with too much profile. but we digress not sure how much this relates to the original post except from learning from Tom's fine work
Edited by Redwood - 01 Oct 2012 at 7:25pm
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JoeM(GA)
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Location: Cumming,GA
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Posted: 01 Oct 2012 at 7:48pm |
I bought the tote for $50, the big screw on cap in the top was messed up which didn't matter to me as the whole top was coming off any way. I run 10 amps on everything I do, 5 gallon bucket all the way up to this tote. Good connections, plenty of anode surface, and daily cleaning of the anodes are the keys. I use old bush hog blades hung from the pipe frame all around the edges as anodes anything will work! Here's four picnic table benches on their side with a ratchet strap around them, add plastic, you're done! did two 40" Deere rims and fenders for a friend in this before I got the tote 
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Allis Express North Georgia
41 WC,48 UC Cane,7-G's,
Ford 345C TLB
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Redwood
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Posted: 02 Oct 2012 at 8:33pm |
thanks for the information guys. Popped out real slick once I knew I wasn't forcing any hidden fasteners. Other then the top final drive shaft gears being worn down the rest of the rear end is in excellent shape. Even the bearings are running good. I hate to replace them their in such great shape but will still replace them. Just need to find a good machinist to fix the poor repair to the draw bar. It was dropped of in its last days of use for repair for loose drawbar bolts to the housing. now its partly welded on with one broken bolt. I want that bored out properly. Just wish I had the equipement for that.
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