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DiyDave 
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gambrills, MD
Points: 54731
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 Topic: water to oil pan
Posted: 17 Aug 2019 at 5:29pm |
Post a picture of the crack...
There is a non welding method of fixing, called lock-n-stitch, that works pretty good. Also, there is a couple of block sealing products that use soduim silicate (water glass) as the active ingredient.(Blue Devil is what I use...)
[TUBE]Pq0wfU4ZaKk[/TUBE]
[TUBE]IXQM8nheRv0[/TUBE]
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woodsman89
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Joined: 17 Mar 2018
Location: iowa
Points: 42
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Posted: 17 Aug 2019 at 4:21pm |
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RATS, Two dumb @sses got together. First one replaced core plug, but didn't fish the old one out. The second (yours truly) didn't replace them when he rebuilt the engine. Put new plugs in thinking I got by cheap, Talking to friend on phone and I see beads of water well up on top of the head. Yup, she's cracked.
Is that strange for a head to crack on the top? Should be an easy fix?
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Gerald J.
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Hamilton Co, IA
Points: 5636
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Posted: 14 Aug 2019 at 9:56am |
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Dick L
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Edon Ohio
Points: 5093
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Posted: 14 Aug 2019 at 6:47am |
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Any fluid being oil or water on top of the head drains down the holes the pushrods are located. That fluid flows out the front in the galley over the camshaft lifters and over the crankshaft gear back into the pan. What you are seeing just about nails the core plugs as the problem.
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TimNearFortWorth
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Joined: 12 Dec 2009
Points: 2014
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Posted: 13 Aug 2019 at 8:10pm |
I would consider starting with core plugs, for 5-10 bucks plus a new valve cover gasket. I drain some fluid out of block petcock and about half of the rad or she'll run water up and out head when you pull the old plugs adding more water to your oil. Fill it back up with distilled water, drain any water from initial pan oil again and top up with fresh oil. I just set the valve cover on, get it up to operating temp for about 10-15 mins.watching the temp as you will have to add water to get everything flowing when thermostat opens for circulating. I let em' set overnight, pull the valve cover and blot the oil out of each plug to double check as you will quickly see water again if one was buggered on install. Fresh oil/filter and monitor temp along with water level for a while to be safe. When I am happy no more leaks, drain enough to add sufficient qty. of anti-freeze while smiling to myself that it wasn't sleeve o-rings, this time . . . . . .
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DiyDave
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gambrills, MD
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Posted: 13 Aug 2019 at 6:14pm |
Check core plugs first. Then, as you have the pan off, check the bottom of the cyl. Cyl sleeve could be cracked, or more likely, seal at the bottom of sleeve... 
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Michael V (NM)
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: NM
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Posted: 13 Aug 2019 at 6:01pm |
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Check the core/frost plugs in the head,,I think they are under the rocker arm
They may be rusted and have a pinhole in one of them
Edited by Michael V (NM) - 13 Aug 2019 at 6:02pm
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woodsman89
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Joined: 17 Mar 2018
Location: iowa
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Posted: 13 Aug 2019 at 5:26pm |
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Oh, Oh, my little C has a problem. Like a woman if you start bragging how good she is you'll get a jolt. Was mowing with her and on the way home I noticed she was a little warm. When I shut her off I could hear it gargle for a while. So I checked the oil and it was milky. So I changed oil, I found a little water when taking out the plug, I added some water and it dripped out the pan. Took the pan off and it is coming from in front off the front main. The sleeves look dry. It starts dripping when water gets high enough to cross over to the engine when filling the radiator. what is under that front cover that might leak? Is it a head gasket running to the front?
I hate the placement of the temp gauge, if you are low on water that thing is useless. I think I will tap into the water someplace and put another gauge for peace of mind. thanks
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