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BrianC 
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Joined: 16 Jun 2011
Location: New York
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 Topic: Want to get a 1948 model C running
Posted: 16 Jun 2011 at 9:49pm |
Hello, This is my first post, I am a newbie here. I want to get my fathers 1948 Allis Chalmers Model C running. Wide front end with cultivators. I has not run since about 1987. The gas tank has holes in it. Local radiator shop says they can fix that properly. The engine turns over (hand crank) and makes compression in all cylinders. Clutch works, transmission goes into all gears, no water in crankcase oil. The radiator fluid had been drained. I guess I should fill it and see what happens. The carburetor is a Marvel-Schebler TSX-154. This may not be the original. Manual says they used a Zenith 161J7 that year. Since it used to work well with that carb, I will clean this one up. Magneto doesn't spark. I remember the original Fairbanks Morse malfuntioned and he replaced it with the current mag, an American Bosch. So now this one is not working. Should I fix this, find a Fairbanks or purchase a new Wico? What would be best for future maintainability? Do these things have a thermostat? The radiator has the shutter system. Any advice on hydraulic system and first startup damage prevention? Thank you for any advice. -Brian
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Auntwayne
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Joined: 23 Apr 2011
Location: Edwardsville Il
Points: 1589
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Posted: 16 Jun 2011 at 10:31pm |
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Pictures please !
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junkman
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Joined: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Nevada, MO
Points: 355
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Posted: 16 Jun 2011 at 11:07pm |
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Welcome to the forum. You say you can't get any fire? have you tried filing the points? This would be the first thing I would check points then condenser. Try this and see what happens and yes we all love to see pictures that way we are able to see and better diagnose your problems. Again welcome
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CTuckerNWIL
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
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Posted: 16 Jun 2011 at 11:13pm |
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Welcome to the best tractor forum on the web.
1. Clean and use your carb.
2. There are good FMJ mags out there but maybe yours just needs points and condenser.
3. Maybe, could have. My CA has both shutters and stat.
4. Hydraulics only runs when the PTO is engaged. Get yer motor runnin and worry about the hydraulics later.
Some guys pump oil back down from the filter base so the engine oil pump is primed before start up.
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Steve in NJ
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Andover, NJ
Points: 11978
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Posted: 17 Jun 2011 at 6:38am |
Welcome to the Orange family!
1. The TSX154 is a good carb and showed up on some C, and CA models. Use it.
2. On the Mag, spray the points with a tuner cleaner or Brakekleen. Don't file em. When you file them you take the cad plating off of them and you'll be in the Mag constantly to file em' again to get the engine fired. We offer Mag service, parts and rebuilding if interested. As Charlie mentioned, it could have a stat in it. My B did, and that was equipped with shutter's. I would change the oil & filter in the engine and hydraulics first before starting. Once you get the engine running good, engage the PTO and see what you have for hydraulics. You may find it will be fine.... Good luck, and keep us posted on your progress!
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Bill Long
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Bel Air, MD
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Posted: 17 Jun 2011 at 7:03am |
Brian, Welcome to the Allis Chalmers Forum. You will find this to be a most helpful group of individuals. Listen closely to what is said above. You have the advice of some very deep knowledge. If you are having trouble with your mag SteveNJ can take cae of it with parts or a rebuild. You are quite fortunate that the engine is not stuck since it has not run in such a long time. You will find the C to be a most dependable and very basic unit. Let us know how it goes. Good Luck! Bill Long
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BrianC
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Joined: 16 Jun 2011
Location: New York
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Posted: 17 Jun 2011 at 8:27pm |
Wow, guys, thanks for the information. I am on west coast, tractor is on east coast. I only have limited vacation time to get it working. So I need to plan this out and get parts lined up. A time limit is motivation, but also adds stress. So next time I visit I will arrive with a carb rebuild kit and points and condenser in my suitcase. I would post pictures, but I would need a real long telephoto lens! This is why I can't just see if there is a thermostat. Also, there is a "visual" problem. Ah, err, I don't know how to put it, ok, just blurt it out, tell 'em. The tractor is painted a dark green! My father painted it about 2 years after his dad passed. Maybe grandpa had remarked that he liked the old Allis Chalmers green color better than the new orange? I won't be drummed out of the forum now, will I? Thank you.
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Dick L
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Edon Ohio
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Posted: 17 Jun 2011 at 9:17pm |
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There might be some wanna be correct police around but any color of paint keeps rust away. My mind blanks out the one green and yellow color and I only sees black and white like the old pictures. (:^D
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Bill Long
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Bel Air, MD
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Posted: 18 Jun 2011 at 10:01am |
When it comes to antique tractors - especially AC - I'm color blind.
In fact the first flat top WC my father sold was shown to me one day by a customer. He had painted it Blue. I was almost sick.
I remember I told him If you wanted to paint the FIRST TRACTOR MY FATHER SOLD BLUE call me and I will get you the paint.
In any event don't worry. We all know what an Allis Chalmers is even though it may be a different color.
Good Luck!
Bill Long
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BrianC
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Joined: 16 Jun 2011
Location: New York
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Posted: 18 Jun 2011 at 9:06pm |
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Next up after getting it running will be to restore it.
Someday it will be orange. The current paint is
peeling, there is some rust.
One thing leads to another.
Fix the gas tank.
Rebuild the carburetor.
Fix the magneto.
Get it running.
It has an alternator, doesn't look right.
Will have to find a 6v generator.
Maybe new wiring harness.
New battery,cables and battery box.
Find original style headlights.
One front wheel is loose, wheel bearing or loose nut I suppose.
New bench style seat.
New rubber bitty parts, like shifter boot.
One rear tire is cut, and maybe 35 years old.
Find that big round draw bar.
There is built up oil gunk around PTO shaft and near hydraulic pump.
Right rear fender is rusted thru at chassis attach, have to patch or replace.
Who knows what else, a leaky water pump seal could be expected.
This is what I saw and remember from visit last October.
Hint, now you know what parts I need to find.
I predict more posts to this forum in the future.
Thanks.
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DREAM
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Joined: 06 Jan 2010
Location: Elberton,GA
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Posted: 18 Jun 2011 at 9:58pm |
Welcome aboard Brian. Have no fear, any problems you may have can be solved here.
Don't worry about the color, paint is cheap.
Let me know how you come out on the gas tank work. The one i'm working on right now has holes rusted in it from the OUTSIDE! The inside is perfect, no rust, and was full of fresh gas when I brought it home(my dad was still using it). He said he couldn't fill the tank more than 1/2 full or it leaked. I saw why. Tractor had mounted planters, and fertilizer had eaten through the tank in several places. Still thinking about fixing it. Hard to find them now with no rust inside.
The carb may be original. My 1950 has a MS TX 154 on it too. Works fine.
Listen to Steve and some others on the mag. No filing. Might use steel wool to get off oxidation, but if you file, you will keep having problems. Course, if someone already filed them, it won't hurt. I recommend taking a new set of points/condenser with you. Clean it all up, and make sure the kill switch tang/kill wire is not shorted to anything. Probably just needs a good cleaning.
Other than that, parts can be found from several sources on here, or just look in fencerows(if you have the time). These little rascals are common. Bs can be used for engine/transmission parts, as well as hood, gas tank, and tool box. Other tinwork is specific to the C. Concentrate on one thing at a time. Engine first. Get it running, the rest will fall into place.
For encouragement. If yours isn't any worse than these two, you have nothing to worry about. Both of these run fine now. In the process of replacing sheet metal and making them look presentable. Nothing to it. If I can do it, anybody can.
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I didn't do it! It was a short, fat, tall, skinny guy that looked like me!
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BrianC
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Joined: 16 Jun 2011
Location: New York
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Posted: 18 Jun 2011 at 11:00pm |
Thanks Brent. I have worked on the tractor before, it is older than me. The hated alternator is actually my handiwork. I found a picture. I hope it uploads OK. I just dragged it into the window. What can you A-C people tell me about it? I see rust, (even the oil filter) evidence of original orange paint. Adjustable axle and rear wheels set wide. Under hood muffler. Are the cultivators AllisChalmers or third party? Seat is shot. Homemade battery box, Bosch magneto. Replacement 12 v lights. New front tire. The tractor was stored in a humid greenhouse. Stuck in the mud. Pulled it out with the other tractor (an AllisChalmers 160 in original A-C orange)! It had rusted a lot since I last saw it. So I rescued it into the garage. I went wild with rust buster oil. I had put some of that in the spark plug holes, then ATF some days later. Hand crank is new, it cranks easy. The gas tank is the type with the exposed rear tie down strap. I have mom looking for the owners manual. I am sure the serial number is written in it. Actually green isn't that bad of a color. I can't recall it being orange. I was like age 4 when it got painted green. Is this a sand blast candidate? What does it take to get a 100 year paint job. ![]()
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BrianC
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Posted: 18 Jun 2011 at 11:02pm |
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Ah darn, no picture.
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BrianC
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Posted: 18 Jun 2011 at 11:07pm |
Ok, maybe now I have a picture of the 1948 C 
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