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voltage regulator... |
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shameless dude ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Apr 2017 Location: east NE Points: 13607 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 01 Dec 2017 at 12:02am |
on my 180D I think has shot manure, the alternator checks o-k, AGCO says they don't have any, found one at an auto parts store and it looks the same, but is about a 1/2 pound difference in weight, and of course it's made in china. does anyone have a part # for it? I forgot to get that when at AGCO.
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CrestonM ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Sep 2014 Location: Oklahoma Points: 8455 |
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I can't help much, but good luck. Every time I hear "voltage regulator" I get a shudder... I've had nothing but trouble finding good ones for my tractors.
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KJCHRIS ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 21 Dec 2015 Location: WC Iowa Points: 956 |
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Dale, think it should be either 70243986 / 72072955.
Some parts counter books show 2 regulators for the Delco 10DN alternator, 1 for ammeter and 1 for idiot light setups. You need the ammeter 1 if they ask.. I've had good results with electrical parts from ASAP @ 1-877-530-4430. Their part number is 105289 price is $17.00. 2 - 3 business days for ship to your door. The 1 on my AC200 been on 8-9 years so it must be OK. Have not had any bad experiences with their parts.
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AC 200, CAH, AC185D bareback, AC 180D bareback, D17 III, WF. D17 Blackbar grill, NF. D15 SFW. Case 1175 CAH, Bobcat 543B,
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Phil48ACWC ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 17 Jan 2013 Location: Vermont Points: 305 |
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Get yourself a 10 SI Delco 3 wire alternator with a built in electronic solid state voltage regulator like this one https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/alternator-tractor-delco-10si-with-tach-john-deere-allis-massey.html?mrkgcl=1145&mrkgadid=3179676962&rkg_id=h-03354b6c5c788d75ac5a9016d58d72e1_t-1512130026&adpos=1o2&creative=196860178238&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=Cj0KCQiAmITRBRCSARIsAEOZmr7l4ryO3XcFCdg66svdEwTTftFkDs_KZmEG4L1qInWFEibFS4EUjzcaAviOEALw_wcB
I converted my WC to 12V 20 years ago and used one of these alternators and never had any problems. I use my WC year round. Very very reliable. No more troublesome mechanical voltage regulators. The diode is so the engine won't keep running after you turn off the ignition. Power to this terminal is required to excite the alternator to get it charging once you start the tractor. The diode can be eliminated with a momentary on switch (spring loaded to off). You'll need to hit the switch when you start the tractor to excite the alt and start it charging.
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shameless dude ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Apr 2017 Location: east NE Points: 13607 |
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thanks guys!
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wfmurray ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Bostic NC Points: 1225 |
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Put alternator on my restored B and ran a wire to switch box and put a nor open switch in . Crank pull switch turn loose and its charging,cut motor off and no discharge.
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lowell66dart ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 10 Jul 2013 Location: Paulina La. Points: 964 |
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I have a NAPA one that I bought for my 175 which I am not going to use. I would let it go cheap. New in the box. I remember it being around $60? Let me know and I can send you some pics.
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AC 6080 (8030,7060,200,175,D-17HC, 6040,160,6140 all gone) Farmall 1066 & 656 Hi-Clear (for sale), White 2-62 High Clearance, JD 4255 Hi Clear.
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DougS ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 03 Nov 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 2490 |
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A CS130 (not the D model) already has a resistor built into the “I” terminal. You shouldn’t need a resistor or diode or light. Just hook it directly to the ignition.
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DMiller ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Hermann, Mo Points: 33912 |
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Problem with a standard Delco is you lose the Tach for the tractor on the 180/185.
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DougS ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 03 Nov 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 2490 |
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Actually you don’t. Your tach may not read quite right if the Edit: Whoops. Alternator poles, not tach poles. Edited by DougS - 01 Dec 2017 at 12:21pm |
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Joe(OH) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Montezuma, Ohio Points: 991 |
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The auto parts store voltage regulator is probably the new electronic type while your old one is the mechanical with points type. I have had good luck with auto parts ones so far.
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Life is simpler when you plow around the stump.
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Steve in NJ ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11992 |
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When purchasing Voltage Regulators, get the number off the Alternator and then match the correct VR to the Alternator number. This way you know the VR is designed to work with what Alt you have. That's why a lot VR's fail. They're not mated to the Alt they need to team up with. The China thing doesn't help either. Make sure the VR is grounded properly to. Very important.
Steve@B&B |
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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DougS ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 03 Nov 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 2490 |
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There are some smart regulators out there that can be configured to fit any P-type alternatores. Most externally regulated alternatirs are this type. One this type of regulator you can configure the maximum field current; the charge voltage; the charge based on battery temperature and set it for two or three stage charging. Google “smart alternator regulator” for a look. There’s one out there for $149 I think. Xantrex is one name that comes to mind.
Edited by DougS - 01 Dec 2017 at 9:25pm |
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