Used 8070

If you have the money and the time...yes.

Serial # is stamped on rear rt above PTO. They are not trouble makers....but if not cared for,its like any other mechanical thing. From the description don't pay much. There are better ones for the same money.

You just missed a good 8070 power shift MFWD! I have owned the tractor since 2003 and knew the PO who did some light loader work for 5 years. So in about 1998 he bought a one owner tractor with a new engine at 4500 hrs from a local dealer. It now has 6200 hrs and has been in the shed and well maintained since 2003. I did a complete paint job on it about 2017 and the interior is the original in pretty nice condition with the original checker board upholstery on the seat. I had very little trouble in the 18 years that I owned it. Fuel injection pump rebuild, batteries, rework the detent system in the power shift, fix leaks on engine is about all. The clutch was never set right so the inching function was not working resulting in very jerky clutch engagement. Dr Allis on this forum helped me zero in on what the problem was and I got that working well. I know the guy that bought mine and he wanted a good old school tractor to do some snow removal around the yard and run augers and his 5 year old tractor was giving him too much trouble throwing codes and derating so he is replacing it with this 38 year old one. He did a lot of research on these 7000 and 8000 series tractors and found that the power shift seemed to be a very reliable transmission. The rear end and hydraulics also seems to be pretty well bullet proof. Overall the 8070 he found has a very good reputation in this area. I think any time you buy the highest HP model of a tractor you stand some risk of over doing it but for most of these that are not doing the heavy work any more I think they are a pretty reliable and well built tractor. Parts seem to be available although there are not many of the old school mechanics left that could rebuild them with a blind fold on. I just got $30,000 for mine with a $7,500 Ezee-on loader and a 3 PT hitch. I tried to send a couple pictures but the file size is too big. If you want some pics PM me your email and I will send you some.

I'm in the position with this 8070 that our operation doesn't absolutely need another tractor.  But,  it would be nice to have and I have a disease when it comes to Allis Chalmers tractors.  Every time I see this poor 8070 sitting in the weeds,  it calls out for me to rescue it.  It would be lucky to see 200 hours a year to be honest,  but they're such a nice looking tractor and it would relieve some of the work from our 8010.  I'd love to keep the hours down on it as much as possible at this point.  We shall see what happens.  13,000+ hours really is a lot! 

Just in case.  One never knows.  If we were to have a smaller tractor broken down and I were to need it to run,  say a small square baler or something along these lines.  Wouldn't be a very common thing,  but one never knows.  It's not uncommon for us to have every tractor we own busy at the same time.  Especially when hay making is in full swing.  If one went down,  it would be nice to have the option to use the 8070 on a hay rake, or baler or something.  Drive lines will be fine on equipment that doesn't run hard like that.  

This is my experience.  The big 1000 shaft is very much useless for me and we'd be running an adapter all the time even for our 1000 RPM implements.  I don't really know if it was a different era thing,  or what.  But for example our forage harvester drive line is rated to 225 HP and it's the small 1000.  I've always wondered about that.  And it sure would be handy to have the 540 for augers or balers and such if need be.  

Since 1973 we ran a 914 IH pull type combine on 1 3/8 1000 shaft on a IH 806 and later a 1206. In 1979 we bought a Versatile 500 that was 160 pto hp and had the big shaft. It ran with an adapter until 2004 when we bought a Versatile 2000 pull type that had the big 1000 shaft. In 1986 I bought a 8550 Allis with big 1000 shaft that ran on the Versatile combine until 2002. In 1989 I did a repower on the 8550 to a 350 Cummins so it needed the big 1000 rpm shaft. We have done lots of work with 1000 rpm pto on M & W grain dryers, water pumps, manure pumps (150 - 300 hp), Northwest 9 ft HD rototiller (150 - 350 hp), 13 x 85 augers. Lots of it with an adapter from big 1000 to small 1000. I still have a bunch of adapters to use a tractor with big 1000 down to 1 3/8" 540 on an auger to get the job done. If you are using a lot of power and doing a season of work it is best to just change the yoke on your implement to the big 1000 size. I have always had a reliable old IH 1206 with the dual shafts that was sure handy for the augers and smaller jobs. When I start listing off the uses for big power pto it starts to add up!

Check the front driveshaft yoke on the front axle where it slides onto the pinion shaft.   It's most likely sloppy.   Get a new yoke from agco and cut off about 3/4 of an inch off of the old yoke and weld on the front of the new yoke.   Makes a world of difference.   I just did mine last week. New yoke is close to $600. Just something else to consider in your purchase price.

My loader tractor is a FWA 8070.  I put on about 20 hrs a year on it.  My father bought it in the late 80's and it's pretty much mine now. Put a loader on it when we went to no-till and the tractor not needed much.  Think I have around 6200 hrs on it.  It's been a great tractor.  I overhauled a couple years ago.  My cold starts good.  Most of the time I have in the shed, but the other day, it popped off at about 30 degrees outside.  I have never used the PTO.  I agree, switch out to the smaller diameter one.  I have an adapter for it, but most of my stuff has 540.  Only problem I have is it loses prime after sitting a day and hard to start. I changed every seal on the fuel lines and overhauled the pump and that didn't help.  I put an electric lift pump on the frame and that fixed my problem. You'd think I'd find a fuel leak, but haven't yet.  For the oil pan gasket, when I overhauled it, I used what it came with in the kit and didn't like it.  I should have found something better.  It comes in several pieces and fought it the whole way.  Need to find a 1 piece gasket and redo as that is my only leak.  

On top of the tank the return line from the pump goes on a fitting. I used a long screwdriver to move around in the tank to feel if the hose was there. If you have to replace the hose, drop the tank a little bit and wiggle the fitting to  get it out. Mine has at least one hose dropped in the bottom of the tank! 

PAFarmer wrote: Sorry for being thick headed,  I just want to make sure I understand.  You're lengthening the splined part of the pinion yoke by welding a piece of the old yoke onto the new yoke?