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littlemarv 
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Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Wisconsin
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 Topic: Unstyled WC shift cover
Posted: 31 Jul 2017 at 12:10am |
While putting the WC through its paces last fall after putting it all back together, I noticed a pretty big problem while driving it. When you stop the tractor and put it neutral, with that big shift lever hanging way out like it does, it would sometimes fall back into gear, either 2nd or 4th, by the time you let the clutch pedal back out. This is pretty dangerous, that's for sure. I almost went over backwards off the seat the first time it happened, and after that, I would EASE the clutch out, and several times it was in gear again. The transmission shifts good, and I suspect it is just some broken detent springs. While in the swap meet at the Orange Spectacular, I spotted several WC shift towers, and I picked one up to rebuild, and then swap it out with the one on my tractor. So, I pressure washed it out, and engraved everything "1", "2", and "R" so I can get everything back where it belongs. Removed the setscrews, and the plugs on the ends of the rails for removal. You need to be careful that the detent springs are under pretty good tension, and can fly out when you remove the shift rails. The middle rail has a pin in it, that floats back and forth, and together with the two interlock pins, keep it from going into more than one gear at a time. Here is how the reverse interlock works, its just a plate a little bigger than the notch in the shift gate, when you squeeze the lever, it lifts up and lets the shift lever over into the reverse gate. To get the lever out, there is a snap ring and washer. So here is where there is plenty of room for slop. The pin is probably worn some. The groove is probably worn some. And I can see the pin is moving in the housing as well. So there it is, all laid out. Really, all I need for parts is three detent springs and an oversize pin, correct? I may have to weld and grind on the shift lever ball a bit. Does anyone have a source for the parts, and the specs for what the ball on the end of the shifter should be? Thanks in advance.
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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B26240
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Joined: 21 Nov 2009
Location: mn
Points: 3860
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Posted: 31 Jul 2017 at 6:02am |
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Marv you do good work and I'm sure you will get your shifter fixed. Steiner tractor has oversized pins for many AC's but it's not listed for the WC. If you have a friend with a milling machine it would be an easy project. I have fixed a couple of them and ended up leaving the reverse lockout mechenisum out when re-assembling. Sorry I missed you at Hutch.
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allischalmerguy
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Deep River, IA
Points: 2891
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Posted: 31 Jul 2017 at 8:50pm |
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Marv,
Those are sure interesting pictures. And you are a great mechanic. Thanks for sharing. I have wondered that is the WD and the WC have the same transmission, as I have heard, why is there no reverse lock out on a WD?
Mike
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It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,
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littlemarv
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Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: 03 Aug 2017 at 11:53am |
Cleaned everything up, a couple of minutes with a file and I had the groove cleaned up in the shifter. Made up a few new pins out of a grade 8 5/16" bolt, I think the one in the middle turned out the best. Drilled out the hole in the housing. I found an old post where someone had posted measurements of what the ball end of the shifter should look like. .530" on the ball, and .315" on the flat side. Mine measure a little bigger, actually, and fit in the gates O.K., so I will leave it alone. Laid all the nice clean parts out, one of the forks has broken and been welded but looks like a sound job, so back in it goes. Just need a new shift boot, and I may go to the hardware store and try to match up the detent springs. Thanks for looking!
Edited by littlemarv - 03 Aug 2017 at 2:46pm
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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allischalmerguy
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Deep River, IA
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Posted: 03 Aug 2017 at 2:24pm |
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Marv
you are amazing. Very interesting. thanks for sharing. It will help someone!
Mike
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It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,
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littlemarv
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Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: 16 Aug 2017 at 10:26pm |
Well, I got it back together. Unfortunately, there aren't many "during" pictures. Put some extra thick grease on the ball and pin area. Then, reassembly is pretty much the reverse of taking it apart. I couldn't take many pictures because both hands are pretty busy getting all the parts back in! Just need a new shifter boot, and this one should be ready to bolt on. If you've never tried assembling a shift cover while balancing it on top of two old cylinder liners, you should. Hey, its what I had handy. I may build a jig to hold the tower when I rebuild the one that's currently on the tractor. Thanks for looking.
Edited by littlemarv - 16 Aug 2017 at 10:28pm
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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Dave(inMA)
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Grafton, MA
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Posted: 17 Aug 2017 at 7:04am |
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Nice project, Marv. Thanks for sharing it. That balancing act looks like a challenge! Were you able to locate replacement springs for the rails?
Edited by Dave(inMA) - 17 Aug 2017 at 7:06am
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
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Posted: 17 Aug 2017 at 7:15am |
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Merv,
As always, a very detailed explanation! Thanks!
Regards,
Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
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Posted: 17 Aug 2017 at 8:29am |
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I replaced the shift lever in my 35 and had to remove the center rail to do it. First time out at a show the thing locked into reverse on me. When I got it all apart, I found that the interlock pin was missing. It works great now.
I also had a lot of left right slop, so I put the shifter in the mill and re-cut the slot, set the tower in the mill and ran a bigger end mill thru the side hole, then made a new square headed pin to fit.
Eye protection is a good idea when removing the rails, as those springs can have a LOT of energy stored in them.
Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 17 Aug 2017 at 8:30am
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littlemarv
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Posted: 17 Aug 2017 at 10:02am |
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No, I never got a chance to try and get new springs. These were in very good shape. But now that I think of it, I should have at least measured them. I'm sure I will need new springs for the shift cover that is current on the tractor. Darn that hindsight is sharp.
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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littlemarv
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Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: 17 Aug 2017 at 10:04am |
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And yes, I covered the holes with a rag when taking apart and putting together. Those detent balls fly out pretty hard!
Edited by littlemarv - 17 Aug 2017 at 10:05am
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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Gatz in NE
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Lincoln, NE
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Posted: 09 Sep 2017 at 9:21pm |
 littlemarv wrote:
And yes, I covered the holes with a rag when taking apart and putting together. Those detent balls fly out pretty hard! |
ask Roger Welsch...LOL
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Gatz in NE
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Posted: 09 Sep 2017 at 9:40pm |
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Years ago,(like in the 50's & 60's) when we still used a WC regularly on the farm.
Dad had gotten a add-on bracket with a slotted part that mounted on the shift tower that kept most of the slop out and made it much easier to shift.
There was another part that clamped onto the shift lever that had a "prong" that engaged the slot. It worked well. I'm going on 60 yrs memory here, so I don't recall where it came from........ just assumed it was an after-market kit; perhaps sold through an Allis dealer.
So, I don't know if they're still available. It was painted silver.
Edited by Gatz in NE - 09 Sep 2017 at 9:41pm
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