TSX 464 Rebuild - Problem SOLVED!

I wanted to give the WD45 the benefit of a carb rebuild. Gave the carb halves a good soaking in carb cleaner fluid and blew out all the passages - they all behaved as though clear. Used the Sandy Lake kit, then gave the carb a coat of the paint Steve NJ recommended followed by two coats of PO#1 from a Rustoleum rattlecan. After reinstalling the rebuild, there's good news and bad news:

1. The good news - the engine fired up and ran beautifully on the settings I used. Idles nicely and sounds great at full throttle. Then there's the sound it makes with that Nelson muffler when I pull the throttle lever from idle to full speed! Oh my.

2. The bad news - adjusting the high speed needle (it's a Type C carb) has zero impact on how the engine runs. Which was the case before I did the rebuild. And one reason why I did it.

3. More bad news - Rustoleum paint doesn't stand up to gas. A minor leak (fixed) ate that paint right off the carb where the gas hit it.

Any suggestions on what's causing #2 would be greatly appreciated! As would suggestions for gas-resistant paint.

Thanks much, guys.

Dave

Edited by Dave(inMA) - 22 May 2020 at 1:00pm

WC, CA, D14, WD45

Humm,

Correct me if I am wrong but that should shut off gas when all the way in.

Not sure I have the answer. You might call Bill at Sandy Lake if you done get any response.

Regards,

Chris

D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.

I'm happy to report that the mystery of the non-functioning Power Adjusting Needle Assembly has been solved! After several calls/emails with Steve in NJ and then this morning with Bill at Sandy Lake, I traced the problem to the packing inside the assembly.

The assembly consists of an outer housing with a needle inside a packing nut and a packing washer. The packing nut compresses the packing washer around the needle to prevent fuel from leaking out and air from leaking in.

With the packing nut is tightened, the packing washer is compressed, reducing the diameter of the hole through which the needle must pass to the point that it acts as a seat - the needle can't pass through the hole. The result is that screwing the needle into the packing nut seats the needle on that washer, preventing the needle from crossing the open area in the middle of the assembly:

To function, the needle must be able to cross that open space and seat against the opening just before the threaded section:

The solution was absurdedly simple: loosed the packing nut enough that the needle will pass through the packing, then tighten the nut. I turned the needle out 1.5 turns, installed the carb on the tractor and slowly turned it in until the engine began to falter, turned it back out a half turn plus until the engine sounded happy again, then a bit more. Whew!

WC, CA, D14, WD45

Well, I assembled it incorrectly and it didn't leak. That said, I bet there's at least one way to have it leak! Good luck with your project, GG.

WC, CA, D14, WD45

Well Chris, just make sure you get the power adjustment needle through the packing washer before you use the carb!

WC, CA, D14, WD45

garden_guy wrote:

So... If this is not assembled correctly, does fuel drip out of the adjustment screw? I'm working on one of these right now and am curious if I am putting that back together right after cleaning it.

What Dave experienced, was that either the trailing edge of the taper, or the outer surface of the needle was binding against the packing, making it 'feel' like the needle was seated. Of course, it was snug enough against the packing to not want to turn, it was clearly seated well enough not to leak... it was just about six-turns-shy of the orifice that the taper was supposed to control. Wink

A leak from this valve is either coming from:

1) Lack of seal at the washer between the assembly and bottom of the bowl

2) Lack of seal in the packing of the needle (which Chris identified)

3) Loss of seal somewhere else, and it's deftly creeping down the outside of the bowl, over the valve, and 'lookin' like the valve is leaking, when it's actually something else.

For the category of 'something elses'... an overflowing float bowl (like damaged or swamped float, stuck or damaged/rotten float needle, crud jammed in needle seat, or improperly adjusted float height) is frequently one of the highest ranking in my experience. A cracked or loose fuel line fitting (and remember- there's a little catch-screen inside that inlet usually), or the last one...

A plugged up, or wasp-filled, or water-filled/frozen oil-bath air cleaner that is acting like full-choke when cranking...

Always remember- carbeurators are plumbing...

And PLUMBING (not money...) is the Root of All EVIL...

Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.

We have received 2 'rebuild kits' with needle and seat that the seat hole was not drilled out completely - thus restricting flow at WOT - drilled out the hole for a cure - the rubber tip still sealed. .

When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..

Can anyone post a pick of what that packing looks like? I am rebuilding my TSX-869 (D15II) and don't have packing, or don't know what it is!

Thanks!

D15 Series II

copyrite1972 - I don't have a picture handy, but I can describe it: on the 464, it's a washer about 3/16" OD - just fits inside the hole that the packing fitting screws into; hole in the center is a bit less than 3/32" in diameter. It's about the size of the smooth shank behind the pointed tip of the needle screw. Maybe 3/32" thick, but it had been compressed by the packing fitting when I saw it so may come new a lot thicker. It's made of fiber - I had to be really careful picking it out of the assembly so I didn't ruin it. You might be able to use a small o-ring.

Butch - thanks for the paint tip!

Dave

Edited by Dave(inMA) - 26 May 2020 at 9:32am

WC, CA, D14, WD45

Thanks!

D15 Series II

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