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Track Release housing

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jerbob View Drop Down
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    Posted: 21 Aug 2017 at 9:15am
Hoping one of you can answer a question for me. I get the whole track tension adjustment. Mine is hydraulic and was frozen from year so non use and adjustment. My question is what the mechanism is to the rear of the adjustment ram. Its called the track release. Its covered in a metal shell with a screw plug on the side to add 90# oil ( 4.5 gals per side)to it. Inside according to the parts book is a very large spring and bushing and such that appear to keep pressure on the track tensioner once adjusted. On my unit both housings appear to be very low of oil or possibly out which I would think is bad for corrosion of internal parts. Does the oil serve any other purpose? would these housings being empty create a problem for adjusting the tracks?

My model is a HD16DC. Thanks gentlemen. I have a show manual coming but didn't want to wait to reach out to the experts.
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CAL(KS) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CAL(KS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Aug 2017 at 10:14am
the oil is to lubricate the the track release system.  these parts are rarely used as they allow the track to release if an object becomes lodged inside the track such as a rock under the sprocket on the chain or a log under the front idler etc.  low oil would only cause the assembly possibly "stick" in a release situation causing damage in the front idler yoke area.  doesnt affect track tension unless normal condiditions push the adjusting rod into the housing which means you have a problem inside.

I have never had the track release on my machine, but i dont work in rocks, and frankly im not sure the last time i checked it. oops

something similiar to a sheer bolt or automatic reset on a plow bottom.  same idea


Edited by CAL(KS) - 21 Aug 2017 at 10:16am
Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20

Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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jerbob View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Aug 2017 at 10:41am
Originally posted by CAL(KS) CAL(KS) wrote:

the oil is to lubricate the the track release system.  these parts are rarely used as they allow the track to release if an object becomes lodged inside the track such as a rock under the sprocket on the chain or a log under the front idler etc.  low oil would only cause the assembly possibly "stick" in a release situation causing damage in the front idler yoke area.  doesnt affect track tension unless normal condiditions push the adjusting rod into the housing which means you have a problem inside.

I have never had the track release on my machine, but i dont work in rocks, and frankly im not sure the last time i checked it. oops

something similiar to a sheer bolt or automatic reset on a plow bottom.  same idea



Well now, that makes perfect sense to me and a relief as well. When I looked over the parts schematic it just looked like a large spring and some various connectors to allow the track tensioner rod to push against it. I will fill it with oil regardless but having this and the ability to back out that spring might make it easier to remove the track hydraulic adjuster for service don't you think? Great feedback CAL(KS) and thank you.
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DMiller View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Aug 2017 at 5:42pm
Most manufacturers call them recoil springs, as many of us old wrenches do. They allow excess tension to recoil so it does not break the rail such as a rock or log winding up in a roller/idler/sprocket.
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jerbob View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Aug 2017 at 6:00pm
Originally posted by DMiller DMiller wrote:

Most manufacturers call them recoil springs, as many of us old wrenches do. They allow excess tension to recoil so it does not break the rail such as a rock or log winding up in a roller/idler/sprocket.


Thank you DMILLER. If you can back out the recoil spring do you thing it would help to removed a track adjuster. as you are an experienced "wrencher" any idea how much adjustment there. I have an inch or a inch and a quarter of adjustment ram showing. Do I have more adjustment available?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug 2017 at 5:46am
The recoil spring is caged in place, it has no purpose or function save as a stop for the track adjustment assembly when not pressured into use by an object or tight track. In the service manual there will be instructions on how to SAFELY disassemble this man killer as if you do it wrong it can come loose violently. When you remove the master pin and drop the rail then the front idler can be rolled forward then the adjuster can be removed, cleaned repaired as needed and this recoil sub-assembly lays tightly caged within that housing. Is little different than those exposed assemblies on other tracked machines and there is no 'adjustments' as to this device.

Edited by DMiller - 22 Aug 2017 at 5:47am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug 2017 at 5:59am
Just as a note, the track, idler and other associated track undercarriage in front of this spring have to be removed to remove that spring.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug 2017 at 6:15am
Originally posted by DMiller DMiller wrote:

Just as a note, the track, idler and other associated track undercarriage in front of this spring have to be removed to remove that spring.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug 2017 at 6:20am
Originally posted by DMiller DMiller wrote:

Just as a note, the track, idler and other associated track undercarriage in front of this spring have to be removed to remove that spring.


Sound like adjusting a garage door torsion spring. I will leave this alone and focus on getting the adjustment set up right. Great advise DMILLER. Any idea how many lateral inches of adjustment you have on the ram? I am showing about 1" to 1.25" of ram exposed.

Many thanks for the adivise and safety notes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug 2017 at 7:19am
Have not adjusted one of those however the adjustment is based against wear on the pins and bushings of the rails, a limited amount of wear there will show as excess movement for the adjustment. HD 16 should have 7.875" rail dimension, to read yours you measure from a edge of a pin not facing the track shoe or away from it but to the front or rear of the machine, count five pins away from that one and measure to the same edge of that pin, divide by four for a reasonable determination of rail pin to bushing wear. There is also rail height which is the wear on the running surface faces and bushing wear from contact on sprocket teeth.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug 2017 at 7:35am
Originally posted by DMiller DMiller wrote:

Have not adjusted one of those however the adjustment is based against wear on the pins and bushings of the rails, a limited amount of wear there will show as excess movement for the adjustment. HD 16 should have 7.875" rail dimension, to read yours you measure from a edge of a pin not facing the track shoe or away from it but to the front or rear of the machine, count five pins away from that one and measure to the same edge of that pin, divide by four for a reasonable determination of rail pin to bushing wear. There is also rail height which is the wear on the running surface faces and bushing wear from contact on sprocket teeth.


Couldn't be easy could it! You speak excellent wrenches DMILLER. I do get it though and will get better visuals when my shop manual shows up.

Thank you you D.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LeonR2013 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Aug 2017 at 4:15pm
Really watch that spring. If you can, chain it in place so it can't fly out. It reminds of a parking brake on air brakes. Best thing to do is stay out of the way. They'll knock a bump on your head big enough for a calf to suck.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Aug 2017 at 8:24pm
Great advise LeonR.

My spring is completely enclosed in a steel housing and I am not going to touch it. I had s torsion spring on a garage door get away from me when I was a kid. Almost took my head off.

Thank you
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