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K-2 in soybeans

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bakwoodsfarm View Drop Down
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    Posted: 15 Oct 2012 at 6:51pm
I have the first year K2 short-back, what was the advantage of the long back? Mine does not like 45bpa beans (pioneer 95m82) at all, sounds like a wood chipper. Anything that I can do to increase speed. I'm in 1st, all the way back on speed control and riding the clutch!!!!!!
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Ryan Renko View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ryan Renko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2012 at 6:56pm
What size header are you running with?? Ryan
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bakwoodsfarm View Drop Down
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12ft with love bar conversion, electric header height control
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wheatbreeder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2012 at 7:14pm
K2 should walk through 45 bu beans even 50 bu beans We had a k and K2 . Sounds like the stems are still green check  the cylinder clearance and speed The bottleneck for the k2 was at the feeder beater. Perhaps the cylinder bars and concaves are worn. 
 The K2 should walk through 50 bu beans in first gear high speed on the variable 

Morley  
Farm stuff 8050,6690,175,F2,5050,WD
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Ryan Renko View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ryan Renko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2012 at 7:17pm
I was just going to post the same thing wheatbreeder!! That lil girl should have no problem in those beans when set up right. Ryan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bakwoodsfarm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2012 at 7:18pm
no green stems, started to replace cylinder bars last year but the old ones and new ones measured the same. I started at 1/2" clearance and moved up to 5/8" with no response. cylinder speed is about 550rpm. It is like these stalks are just that tuff.
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Billoh View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Billoh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2012 at 8:04pm
I have 2 Ks,1 takes beans in high low,the other won't hardly take them in low low.Never compared them to see what the difference is.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dipstick In Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2012 at 8:31pm
I know this is not going to make sense at first but I think you should TIGHTEN the cylinder down. It sounds like you are getting slippage in the cylinder and that lets the crop slow instead of grabbing it and pulling it through.
You don't really have to be smart if you know who is!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HagerAC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2012 at 8:46pm
Exactly what dipstick said.  Lower that cylinder to pull them beans through.  Also a little more speed may help also, just so you don't crack the beans.  Our F2 will cruise through 60-70 bushel beans with a 315 flex head on the front.
30+ A-Cs ranging from a 1928 20-35, to a 1984 8070FWA, Gleaner R52
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bakwoodsfarm View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bakwoodsfarm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2012 at 8:47pm
I did go down to 7/16" but started splitting beans. I have a week to figure this out, we got 3/4" of rain this morning and more coming Friday.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote old farmer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2012 at 9:07pm
I think that when I set them up for custumers we ran in the area of 750 to 800 with no cracked beans.  Check the beater right in back of clyinder to see what tooth sprocket it has.  I think that it has 2  that could be used.  One for corn and the other for small grains and beans.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2012 at 9:43pm
If the front edge of cylinder bars are rounded, either turn them if they have never been turned. If both edges are rounded, replace them along with two new concaves. One on door and one second place behind the door. Set cylinder clearance at 1/4" not by gauges on side, but use a 1/4" piece of steel to gauge between cylinder bar and concave bar. Any time you get cylinder above 1/4" the materal will try to follow the cylinder around causing it to pull hard and crack beans. New bars and adjust will make you think you have a new combine.    MACK
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SHAMELESS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2012 at 10:23pm
my "k" went thru 50 bu beans just fine with a 13 ft header...i don't recall what the cyl was set at tho!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2012 at 10:57pm
like Mack says. Never ran more than 3/8's actual clearance
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote OhKen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2012 at 4:25am
Make sure you level the cylinder. Also make sure the concave strips are in good shape. Alot of times the door will have rock damage and will deform the concave when installing a new one. To get away from that , bolt the outside down first but not hard enough to deform it. Use a straight edge to make sure the concave is straight across. Then use shim washers on the holes where the door is deformed. Shim washers from your cutterbar hold down clips work nicely. I did not mention to clean the concave area with a wire brush, but make sure it is clean. After shimming and getting the new concave strip true, fill the cavities between the door and new concave with auto body filler. I use Tiger Hair, it has fiberglass strands in it and when set is pretty well indestuctible. You may need to do this on your second concave too. If you really want to bring this girl alive you need to install a set of Trimpe cylinder bars. Every other tooth is removed and the remaining teeth are tungsten coated. Trimpe is a small family ran business in Seymore Indiana. They will trade your cylinder bars for their reworked ones. And UPS rite to your door. If you do this to your K2, make sure the chopper knives are in really good shape. The little girl will have an appetite like a F2. Your cylinder clearance is way to loose, I'm running 1/4 and not cracking beans.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Butch(OH) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2012 at 6:37am

What Mack said, its the bars. Years ago we fought a K2 in some tough beans that were frosted before they turned, exact same problem. Bars looked good, couldn't be a thing wrong with em? Wrong!  New bars was like we had a whole new combine one size larger. I think they were Eshelman (spelling)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dipstick In Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2012 at 11:10am
Trimpe bars are re-worked original bars, every other tooth cut out and built up with Tungsten, they are very aggressive when new, and will increase with age. After many hours, the weld looks like sandpaper(sorta) and will work even better. I had them in my CII, 8600 White, 815 IH, and finally in my LII. They work!!!!!! Eshelman if I remember right are cast bars and can break in rocky situations. Either way, they are the CHEAPEST way to increase your combine to the NEXT bigger machine!!!!  Looks, as has been said are very deceiving, and as Butch said I would guess your bars are worn out, and when combined with a wide setting will allow the material to "slip" in the threshing process! I think K's have an open concave like the bigger machines, and if so 90% of threshing happens at the first concave bar! If the crop is NOT pulled through quickly, the cylinder has time to "CHEW" on the material cracking and grinding the grain. Also the beater behind the cylinder needs to be running fast enough to throw the trash back and get it out of the way so it wont have time to be pulled back into the cylinder for another trip!  With my LII I was instructed to take either 5/16 or 3/8 ths inch bolts and place one at each end of the cylinder/concave interface, drop the cylinder til it just touched, tighten the retaining bolts and leave it alone. I could run 21' of tough beans at 5 to 6.2mph (max on the hydro,depending on how dizzy I got watching all that mass go through the feeder beater) and relax in the seat, knowing I was making time!  Good luck!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2012 at 11:31am
K2 is closed concave but if you could explain to this thick head again what you do with 5/16 or 3/8 ths inch bolts. Side to side or front to back? Where do they go? What do you mean by retaining bolts? Are you simply referring to what I call the cylinder adjusting bolts or something else? The terminology isn't hooking up for me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bakwoodsfarm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2012 at 11:34am
Thanks, fellas. Got a new set of rasp bars ordered today from Oakly Combine. We will see what happens.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dipstick In Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2012 at 11:50am
No way would I call you thick headed on this page, now the political page weeeellll.
Yes Lonn, Terry Dunlap, my guru AC and Gleanerwise, told me to put those bolts at each end of the cylinder, left and right side as you are looking at it, between the first concave and the cylinder bar. Drop the cylinder down to just a "fit" like a spark plug setting thingy, and then tighten the cylinder in place with the "cylinder adjusting" bolts. He taught me lots of tricks, like if you are having trouble plugging the head, make sure the auger is dropped close to the pan in the head, keeping the crop from getting under the auger and slowing the feed.
To max out a machine's capacity, and every machine has 20 to 50% more capacity than we realize, there are little things that can be done from front to back for this increase. The crop HAS to be entered in the front and then agressively managed from the front to the back,and the key words here are agressively and quickly with NO slowing or stoppage!!!   Good luck to All.
p.s. If this doesn't answer your questions Lonn or you have more get back to us! 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2012 at 1:15pm
Sounds good Dipstick, thanks, I'm copying your remedy for future use. Feeding green stem soybeans is my biggest headache even more so than the political page. Big smile 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dipstick In Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2012 at 5:22pm
Lonn and Backwwoods, I retired the fall of 93, and some of the stuff is fuzzy, but it's kinda like riding a bike too. We didn't have the problem as bad with green stems then,(we were more liable to have beans popping out of the pods sometimes before you even got to them with the machine!) but there were always the years when it wouldn't quit raining! Sorta the same as green stems.
And when you get those new bars in your K, Backwoods, you will be amazed at the difference even if they are the stock bars. Just remember to run her tighter than the book. Tightness doesn't crack grain, speed does !,and giving it time to set there and be "chewed" on!
You don't really have to be smart if you know who is!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bakwoodsfarm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct 2012 at 6:23am
Thanks for the help, all. We re3adjusted the cylinder like you said with bolts and I was trying to combine with over an inch clearance. Forrest said to install the aggressive bars and set them to 1/2". We are going to give it a try. She sure eats beans now , even without the aggressive bars.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct 2012 at 8:24am
At 1/2" you will wear the crown off the bars and they will be back to the same problem. I have always said the cylinder should never go above 1/4".   MACK
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