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mdm1 
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 Topic: wd-45 hydraulic pump gaskets
Posted: 09 Sep 2012 at 8:49am |
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Is there any secret to replacing the gaskets on the pump? I replaced them before and the one where it mounts still seams to be leaking. It can't be that hard to do but for some reason gaskets and I never got along. What can I use to make my own gaskets? I am going to have to find out for sure where it is leaking.
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Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!
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CTuckerNWIL
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Location: NW Illinois
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Posted: 09 Sep 2012 at 8:57am |
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Are both surfaces flat and free of burrs?You can buy roles of gasket material of all thicknesses. If you lay a piece over the area, you can use the ball end of a ball peen hammer to LIGHTLY tap around the edges and make a gasket pretty easy. Hold the piece in place till you have all the holes marked out. If you are careful, you can cut the gasket all the way and make all the holes by tapping around the edges.
Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 09 Sep 2012 at 8:57am
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Teddy (punchie)
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Posted: 09 Sep 2012 at 10:38am |
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Use grease to hold them on or in place.
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Ac D-19, a Number of WD's, One WD45, Two 444 balers, Ac plows and etc.
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mdm1
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Posted: 09 Sep 2012 at 10:44am |
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Is the gasket material thickness critical? If I remember the gasket kit gasket was very thin. What would the thickness be if anyone would know? TedJ said in a previous post he thought someone used a brown shopping bag.
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Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!
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rms61moparman(Ky)
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Posted: 09 Sep 2012 at 10:53am |
Permatex Moto-Seal!!!
It's the greatest thing since pockets on shirts.
Make sure everything is clean and dry of oil residue and let it cure in THAT application for at least 24 hours.
We use it for sealing crankcase halves and deleting the cylinder to crankcase gasket on chainsaws.
Mike
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Thad in AR.
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Posted: 09 Sep 2012 at 11:23am |
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The gasket should be close to the correct thickness. The thickness can affect the lift or push of the cam to the followers. I always double nut the bottom stud and remove it and it helps keep from tearing or smashing the gasket. I stick the gasket to the pump and install the pump from the bottom.
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LouSWPA
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Posted: 09 Sep 2012 at 12:26pm |
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also, there is a trick of using a nail to restrain the cam followers so you can get the pimp in place w/o destroying the gasket, but I don't know the details. Probably a good thing to learn because that's been the biggest reason for the leakers I've had, tore the gasket installing the pump!
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I am still confident of this;
I will see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.
Wait for the Lord;
be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord. Ps 27
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mdm1
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Posted: 09 Sep 2012 at 12:47pm |
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Mike you mean cure as in don't use or fill for 24hrs after install? Also double nutting the bottom stud? Sounds good but what are my chances of breaking the stud? Great tips!
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Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!
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rms61moparman(Ky)
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Posted: 09 Sep 2012 at 12:58pm |
 mdm1 wrote:
Mike you mean cure as in don't use or fill for 24hrs after install? Also double nutting the bottom stud? Sounds good but what are my chances of breaking the stud? Great tips! |
Yes!
The Moto-Seal is VERY fuel and oil resistant, but I would let it cure for the whole 24 hours before filling or using.
As for your chances of breaking the stud....about the same as your chances for breaking any bolt or stud when working on these old jewels! 
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B26240
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Posted: 09 Sep 2012 at 5:37pm |
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Thads advice about removing the bottom stud sounds good to me as there isn't much room to work in there , as to your concerns about breaking it I dought it since its been in a oil environment from both sides all its life. Just use reasonable force on the wrench. If it dosn,t want to come stop trying.
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mdm1
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Posted: 11 Sep 2012 at 6:13am |
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I think I may try removing the stud. As long as I don't give it that last just alittle more pressure and then snap. If that happens you may hear some naughty words and see an old man jumping around like a monkey stung by a bunch of bees.
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Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!
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Thad in AR.
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Posted: 11 Sep 2012 at 7:08pm |
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I've done 2 lately and the studs came out quite easy on both. Like you say I wouldn't put much torque on them to get them loose.
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mdm1
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Posted: 11 Sep 2012 at 7:30pm |
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Thad did you take out more than 1 stud? And did you use a factory gasket or make your own? I plan to do it this weekend.
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Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!
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Thad in AR.
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Posted: 11 Sep 2012 at 8:16pm |
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I just pulled the bottom stud. I left the other 2 so I could set the pump on them when I got it in place. The top 2 aren't really in the way. I've made a couple gaskets out of thin paper but they need to be close to the right thickness. I bought the last one from AGCO. I've found it best to stick the gasket to the pump not the tractor for installation. I point the rear part of the pump down and install from the bottom. Once the pickup tube is in the hole I then rotate the pump forwards and hang it on 2 studs. HTH Thad
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Bill_MN
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Posted: 11 Sep 2012 at 8:53pm |
LouSWPA wrote:
also, there is a trick of using a nail to restrain the cam followers so you can get the pimp in place w/o destroying the gasket, but I don't know the details. Probably a good thing to learn because that's been the biggest reason for the leakers I've had, tore the gasket installing the pump! |
Lou, do you have to put pimps in place often? ROFL 
Edited by Bill_MN - 11 Sep 2012 at 8:54pm
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1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow
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mdm1
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Posted: 16 Sep 2012 at 4:27pm |
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Well I worked on my pump and it still leaks some. I don't believe it is coming from the pump gasket. I took off the hold positioning valve assembly and found a gasket and an o ring seal. The gasket appeared to be homemade. In my manual I find just the o ring seal and no gasket. Is this correct? Can I get just an o ring although this one looked pretty good? I removed the gasket and am not sure if my leak is there or the drawbar control gaskets. Thanks for any insight.
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Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!
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Thad in AR.
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Posted: 16 Sep 2012 at 5:24pm |
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You are correct just an O-ring between the valve and pump. I just changed the valve on mine a couple weeks ago and used the old o-ring with success but I wouldn't recommend using a used one.
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