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7060 fuel use on lite load

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Sam T-Ga View Drop Down
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    Posted: 15 Dec 2011 at 11:56pm

Thinking about something with cab and air to get out of dust when baling hay, found a 7060 Pd black belly that looks good in pictures. A lot more tractor than I need but the price is right. Been pulling baler with 185 and 7000, just wondering how much more fuel would the 7060 use compared to the 7000? Anybody run round baler with a 7060?

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SHAMELESS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SHAMELESS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2011 at 5:11am
shouldn't be much more....i used my 7080 once for light duty...couldn't really tell the difference!
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bill2260 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bill2260 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2011 at 6:47am
I went from baling hay with 185 to an 8030. Comfort has a price tag. 185 burns 2 gallons per hour and 8030 little more than 3. Would hate to have to hook 185 to round baler now. Hope this helps. Bill
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2011 at 11:05pm
Can't be enough to break the bank.Treat yourself to a little "ease" in life.You ain't getting any younger. I really like my 220 but that 8070 is growing on me!!!
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Dave in il View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dave in il Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2011 at 11:43pm
Not to start a flap about how to run a tractor but, you should be able to shift up and throttle back for pto and most light work. My 7060 pulls a 16 row planter around 2/3 throttle and just sips fuel, versus going full throttle doing tillage.
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bill2260 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bill2260 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Dec 2011 at 6:11am
Does idling back while still working a tractor affect engine lubrication? I would be afraid of some parts not receiving enough lube. Bill
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Orange Blood View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Blood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Dec 2011 at 8:26am
The 7060, engine maintains near full flow of engine oil through most all of the RPM curve.  Yes at idle there is a bit less pressure, but at idle things arene't moving as fast and don't need as much oil eigther.  However, I would not run a 7060 with any kind of real load below 1500 RPM, as fuel efficiancy falls off, do to getting under the turbo, and below the cam curve.  Now by real load I am reffereing to a tillage or planting type of impliment.  If you are bailing, or some other light work, you will probably be fine, as long as you are not lugging the engine.
Still in use:
HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060
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AdamA View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AdamA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Dec 2011 at 8:52am
Only problem with idling back is you don't maintain pto rpm's....our vermeer dosen't like that in heavy hay.You will definetly notice the difference in fuel usage just depends on how many hours you run a year, I use my 7040 on the round bailer but would like a nice 7020 for fuel economy
57'D-17,78'185,83'6080,76'7040,84'8030 FWA.02'Dodge cummins
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Dave in il View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dave in il Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Dec 2011 at 7:25pm
Ok I know we had a thread that turned into "how to operate your tractor 101" concerning engine rpm.
 
 
90 percent of the time I operate my 7060 (and the rest of my tractors) at full throttle while under a load and let the govenor do it's job. However when planting, I shift up to a gear that will let me maintain 5 1/2 mph at about 2/3 throttle. If you are going to operate a round baler or other pto equipment you can throttle back as long as it keeps the rpms in the 540 pto zone on the tach while under load.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Dec 2011 at 8:04pm
no matter what you do or how you do it, the 426 powered tractors will use more fuel than the 185. A 7010/7020/8010 might be closer to the 185 efficiency, but even they will use more fuel with the heavier chassis to pull around. 
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Gregor View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gregor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Dec 2011 at 8:39pm
I like round baling with our 7050.  The tractor is heavy enough to handle a big baler.  My 105 white, I get bounced around more. 
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darrel in ND View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote darrel in ND Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Dec 2011 at 9:51pm
I always figure that you are better off having more tractor than you need than not enough. You might find uses for it later on that require the extra HP, and you'll be glad to have it. My opinion is go for it! Darrel
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Sam T-Ga View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sam T-Ga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2011 at 10:35am
I went and looked at the 7060 Saturday. The engine runs good, power director clutch worked and shifted good, brakes were good, 3 point raises and lowers. Steering acts like someone left out the by-pass screen, jerks like pump starving for oil, oil press light and temp gauge works, other warning lights don't work, sheet metal is not beat up could use a paint job. Cab has been gutted of all padding, needs a cab kit, all glass is intack, ac not working. 18.4 x 38 factory spinout duals, has 1 inside wt, inside tires 60% outside 30%, frt tires are airplane tires. Needs a muffer. SN-7412  We agreed on a price but after I got home I decided I need to finish other projects I have already started. It is not really the tractor I need for hay work. One day I run across a 7010 or 8010 with cab and air. or find a cab for my 7000.   The 7060 is listed on craigs list on Athens, Ga. page for $5500. It is in Elberton, Ga.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote victoryallis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2011 at 11:59am
I can plant 3.5 acres of beans on a gallon of fuel with my 8030 at 1600-1700 rpm.  We also have a 7060 and that tractor has been  real good to us it is one of those peices that has paid for itself over and over again.  After you have ran your 7000 without a cab that I'm assuming is a marron belly if it's a factory no cab tractor you will have thought you died and went to heaven with a 80X0.  We made that step and wow, the 7000 was a good tractor but it makes a 8000 feel like a rolls royce.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2011 at 12:17pm
sounds pricey for what repairs it needs. jerky steering tell me it's having possible charge pump issues?
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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