Replacing axle seals on a wc

I still have a few NOS seals available that are the large OD that do not require the spacer

If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY

Do you have a part number for the seal that goes between the differential and the brakes? I can’t seem to find it at any auto parts stores because it’s such an odd size.

Another vote for Sandy Lake.

Also, save your tin retainer as the new ones I got were slightly larger and wouldn't fit.

Thanks

Most Bad Government has grown out of Too Much Government- Thomas Jefferson

Thad, check your mail

Allis Express North Georgia
41 WC,48 UC Cane,7-G's,
Ford 345C TLB

I am resealing mine now, I got mine from Sandy lake. I am replacing the big donut hub seals, both inner axle seals wich seal up the brake drum are from the differential side and the final drive side. When these leak it drips out the holes at the bottom of the axle knees where the hub axles are mounted. Every WC I have seen leaks there.There are cork gaskets between the big round bull gear plate and the cast housing and a gasket for the final drive cover that holds the donut seal. One of the inner seals requires a steel adapter because the hole back in the axle housing is about 2 inches bigger than the new seals. They are $60 a side, donuts $50 a side, I think I spent a little over $200 but I am making the $60 adapters myself. All these parts are probably about $300. If you are going to restore and paint it is definately worth the money. You will regret not doing it after you paint and oil is running all over it causing it to lift your paint, I know from experiance. I find it amazing that agco still offers parts for 70 year old tractors. JM

On my 1934 WC which i restored in 2009 I replaced the donut seals on it, and I got them through agco, they are no longer cork, but rubber now.

30+ A-Cs ranging from a 1928 20-35, to a 1984 8070FWA, Gleaner R52

I have completely disassembled my wc all but the rearend should I pull it apart and replace the seals? How hard is this to do? Also can I find a factory made cover to replace the cultivator lift?

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PaulB Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Rocky Ridge Md Points: 4691	Post Options Post Reply Quote PaulB Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Replacing axle seals on a wc Posted: 19 Mar 2023 at 6:34am
	I still have a few NOS seals available that are the large OD that do not require the spacer
	If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY

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Mikez Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 16 Jan 2013 Location: Usa Points: 8311	Post Options Post Reply Quote Mikez Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 18 Mar 2023 at 10:11pm
	Welcome to the forum lee. We have lots of parts for these tractors. I’ll take a look for seals

lee1995 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 18 Mar 2023 Location: NC Points: 1	Post Options Post Reply Quote lee1995 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 18 Mar 2023 at 9:03pm
	Do you have a part number for the seal that goes between the differential and the brakes? I can’t seem to find it at any auto parts stores because it’s such an odd size.

B26240 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 21 Nov 2009 Location: mn Points: 3860	Post Options Post Reply Quote B26240 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 17 Feb 2011 at 7:01am
	Thad ,The manual calls for 250 wt oil in the finaldrives-- I couldnt find any so I made some thick stuff using no2 grease diluting with 90wt gear oil. HTH Mark

WC7610 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Sioux City, IA Points: 764	Post Options Post Reply Quote WC7610 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Feb 2011 at 9:23pm
	Another vote for Sandy Lake. Also, save your tin retainer as the new ones I got were slightly larger and wouldn't fit.
	Thanks Most Bad Government has grown out of Too Much Government- Thomas Jefferson

JM Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: United States Points: 379	Post Options Post Reply Quote JM Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Feb 2011 at 8:35pm
	Go to agcos web site you can look up the part diagrams and part numbers.

JoeM(GA) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Cumming,GA Points: 4620	Post Options Post Reply Quote JoeM(GA) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Feb 2011 at 8:24pm
	Thad, check your mail
	Allis Express North Georgia 41 WC,48 UC Cane,7-G's, Ford 345C TLB

Thad in AR. Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Arkansas Points: 9427	Post Options Post Reply Quote Thad in AR. Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Feb 2011 at 8:03pm
	Thanks for the input guys. I already had oil leaking out those holes below the brakes when I bought the tractor but I just wasn't sure where it came from. My I&T manual with 96 pages and covers 10 different tractors needs to be replaced with an original with more detail.

JM Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: United States Points: 379	Post Options Post Reply Quote JM Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Feb 2011 at 7:48pm
	I am resealing mine now, I got mine from Sandy lake. I am replacing the big donut hub seals, both inner axle seals wich seal up the brake drum are from the differential side and the final drive side. When these leak it drips out the holes at the bottom of the axle knees where the hub axles are mounted. Every WC I have seen leaks there.There are cork gaskets between the big round bull gear plate and the cast housing and a gasket for the final drive cover that holds the donut seal. One of the inner seals requires a steel adapter because the hole back in the axle housing is about 2 inches bigger than the new seals. They are $60 a side, donuts $50 a side, I think I spent a little over $200 but I am making the $60 adapters myself. All these parts are probably about $300. If you are going to restore and paint it is definately worth the money. You will regret not doing it after you paint and oil is running all over it causing it to lift your paint, I know from experiance. I find it amazing that agco still offers parts for 70 year old tractors. JM

JoeM(GA) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Cumming,GA Points: 4620	Post Options Post Reply Quote JoeM(GA) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Feb 2011 at 7:31pm
	Thad, it's not hard, just expensive. Those big side seals are a bit over $50 each now. If it were me, I'd go ahead and do it now before you paint
	Allis Express North Georgia 41 WC,48 UC Cane,7-G's, Ford 345C TLB

HagerAC Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2010 Location: SE MN Points: 1184	Post Options Post Reply Quote HagerAC Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Feb 2011 at 7:27pm
	On my 1934 WC which i restored in 2009 I replaced the donut seals on it, and I got them through agco, they are no longer cork, but rubber now.
	30+ A-Cs ranging from a 1928 20-35, to a 1984 8070FWA, Gleaner R52

Gary in Texas Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Burkburnett, TX Points: 630	Post Options Post Reply Quote Gary in Texas Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Feb 2011 at 7:22pm
	Call Brenda over at Sandy Lake, she will price the seals, gaskets and may have the cover for removing the mechanical lift.

Thad in AR. Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Arkansas Points: 9427	Post Options Post Reply Quote Thad in AR. Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Feb 2011 at 6:31pm
	I have completely disassembled my wc all but the rearend should I pull it apart and replace the seals? How hard is this to do? Also can I find a factory made cover to replace the cultivator lift?