1951 WD

70224506 would be the PN of the regulating shaft assembly, in case you have one loose and can show how the hole in the shaft is oriented relative to the plate it is pressed into. Otherwise I might be SWAGing it based off of what I can see in the parts book diagram... which is not very scientific.

I am hoping someone can help me with this linkage from the drawbar - anybody have one loose laying around their shop that can take a measurement of where the hole for the crosspin should be located?

The shaft came loose from the external arm at some point in the tractor's life and they (poorly) welded it back on, and the welds broke. I have the shaft out, cleaned up, and ready to weld back in but I don't want to mess up the hole orientation. The way the crosspin holds the internal linkage to the shaft seems like it would be important. The first pic shows how it was when I removed it, and I suspect that is not correct.

EDIT: Second pic shows the shaft backwards. Luckily it is not welded yet, ha.

I'm crashing onwards with the pump. Everything is cleaned up and I picked up most of the parts I needed. Just waiting on a few that my dealer didn't have in stock.

I ended up doing some light filing plus Scotch-brite work to clean up the worst scores in the bore, and some damage to the rearmost control valve sleeve. I noticed two small mangled pieces of metal in the parts washer today that probably caused the damage. I'm not sure where they were hiding at, but that's why it's always good to thoroughly clean everything, right? Files in control valve bores like this is a huge no-no but I figured I didn't have anything to lose on this pump. We'll see if it works out.

There were 7 shims on the unloading valve. I decided to leave all of them in. I need to get a 5000 psi gauge so I can check pressure once I have the tractor back together.

The AC service manual says you should replace the unloading valve as an assembly. However they are no longer available in 2024. They also provide a procedure "for emergencies" for reusing an old unloading valve with a new ball. You are supposed to press the ball into the seat with 5000 pounds of force and then clean up any deformation in the hole afterwards. I pressed gently with a 20 ton hydraulic press - maybe I only actually got 1 or 2000 lbs. of force on it, but I didn't want to overdo it since I don't have a pressure gauge on my press.

They did point out some tiny cracks around one of the 3/8" stud holes for the cylinder head. It looks like there's still a broken off piece of stud way down in the bottom of it so I'll carefully set this up in the drill press and take care of that. The shop wasn't concerned about the cracks and I'm not really either, but I may get a pic of it later this week. No cracks in between the cylinders anywhere.

Just another long shot. very long shot! What about spray weld, or spray metal? Yes would then have to be rebored. The shop I have do do engine work has the capibility. But would not be close by.

 Regards,

 Chris

Howdy! Like Steve said, I don't think anything would've been able to make this seal swell. It's getting a whole new gasket/seal set now anyhow.

I believe the distributor is actually not aftermarket, but OEM (Delco?) from Allis-Chalmers. This tractor would've originally had a magneto as did all WDs before serial number 136318, but someone appears to have swapped in a replacement distributor drive housing and everything from a newer tractor, or bought all the new service parts for the swap back in the day when they were still available.

 Sorry I was not up to speed on the shifter. Hate to see you have to get another block. But that may be the answer. I had to do that on my WD45 due to cracks. 

The danger is another block can have its own issues too. 

Just a wild thought but could JB weld fill in the voids and be sanded smooth?? I know that is kind of a bandaid for sure. Could work??

Keep at it!

Regards,

 Chris

Thanks. I will start keeping an eye out for a block.

Jack,

Welcome! You may want to begin your own thread on your tractor project too? The lay down version may be a distributor from a International tractor? I had one like that on one of my uncles WD's too. It had worked fine for a long time. 

Regards,

 Chris

I always use distilled water when mixing antifreeze. Back in FFA we restored a JD A that looked like it must have had pond water dumped inside of it. Like you pointed out, distilled is so cheap that there's no reason not to keep some on hand.

This tractor wasn't too bad inside the cooling system. I just thought all that casting flash inside was odd.

I've been cleaning up the head. Has anyone seen this much flash inside the water passages on your heads? It surprised me.

I had a holdup with the old Sioux seat grinder when I started on the seats. The bearings in all of the stone holders were done for, so I had to order replacement bearings and wait on them. Should be good to go again now. I'm still learning how to do seats. I've only done one small engine and those seats were just in the cast iron of the cylinder. Worst case I guess I have to take the head in to have a seat replaced if I mess one up or can't clean it up with enough meat left in it.