Gas tank rusk

I use a toilet bowl cleaner called "the works". Very effective but you need closely monitor as it will eat through weak thin metal.

WD45 Diesel, RC,CA,IB, B, G, 616, Early B-10, D-10, Terra Tiger, 95G spreader, SC blade

Father in law was using apple cider vinegar on a cockshutt 20 that sat for a long time with good results I think the baking soda neutralizes the acidity of the vinegar haven't tried it myself

Edited by NICKMI - 19 Sep 2017 at 7:57pm

Somewhere on here there is a picture floating around of a WD tank, bolted to a wheel, with a chain inside, and some solvent. Guy was plowin and cleanin, all at once... Wink

Take it to a garage. They can soak it with myriatic acid. If there is still rust inside, they can also coat it. Had it done to my WD45 and it came back as good as new. Clean as a whistle.

'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080

Thanks for the suggestion. I would never have thought of that method.

NEB-KC wrote:

Any suggestion on how to remove rust and sludge from a gas tank. My tractor is a WD45. I tried a baking soda/vinegar solution with no obvious results. I rinse the tank more than a dozen time. Each time more sludge comes out.

You mean vinegar followed by baking soda, right? Used at the same time, that will form, basically, water and a salt as the soda neutralizes the acid, meaning it's not doing much of anything.

My practice clean out the organic sludge with kerosene or another solvent, then rinse and get the rust with something like "Metal Rescue", vinegar (for a week)or a phosphoric acid treatment like "Prep and Etch" for 24 hours or so. If i used vinegar or Works or Muriatic as suggested above, I would neutralize with water/baking soda and rinse really well. No mater what I used, I follow it with the "Prep and Etch" to leave a phosphate layer (it's the first few microns of steel, converted to iron phosphate) which does not flake off, to prevent flash rust, or even re-rusting over time assuming the layer is not scratched (hey, it's inside the tank). followed by a couple of good fresh water rinses and thorough drying. The "Prep and Etch" really doesn't have to be neutralized if it is rinsed well. My personal practice is to not coat unless I suspect it's about ready to break through already.

Good luck!

Edited by HoughMade - 25 Sep 2017 at 4:51pm

Hard to beat Don(MO)'s way. I did it the old sweat and back breaking way with 3 pounds of cheap nuts and bolts from the farm and home store.

For loose rust put a magnet on the outside bottom of the tank, and continue to use the tractor. After a day or two, and after setting for a while/over night. Remove the magnet and then use a magnet that's mounted on the end of a shaft to remove the pile of rust where the other magnet was.

Dusty

917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"

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