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Rebuilt B Low Compression |
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iff7378 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 12 Oct 2015 Location: Rochester NY Points: 16 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 12 Oct 2015 at 6:39pm |
I just finished a rebuild on a 1939 B with 3-7/16 overbore pistions. New sleeves, rings and all that too. The tractor runs quite well except for the occasional miss and is rather tricky to crank start (no electric start). I checked the compression and I've only got about 40 lbs in each cylinder. Any ideas why my compression is so low or things to try to see where im losing compression? The valves and guides are also brand new and I gave them all a good lap so they should be sealing well.
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Dick L ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edon Ohio Points: 5087 |
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Lapping is not a valve grind if that is what you are indicating that you lapped rather than grinding the seats. Lapping is a final mating surface polish after the seats are cut or ground. I spark all new valves on my valve grinding machine before installing. I never put a new valve in out of a package.
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WF owner ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 5026 |
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It's pretty hard to get a good compression test on a crank-only engine. To get a good compression test, you should turn the engine over repeatedly with a good starter (which you don't have).
If everything is new, the valves are adjusted properly, and it seems to run ok, I'm betting compression is ok. My 39 (crank-only) B seems like it has very little compression when I'm cranking it (but it still wears me out when it doesn't start quickly!!!). Mine is a hard starting engine, too, which is why it usually gets towed. |
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Bill_MN ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Sioux Falls, SD Points: 1471 |
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Yes, sounds like the compression test was done incorrectly. A proper test is done by putting the tractor in a low gear and towing it with another tractor or truck with the choke and throttle wide open, and having someone walk beside or get a screw in gauge.
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1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow
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DougS ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 03 Nov 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 2490 |
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Check the timing and the magneto impulse timing. That can make a tractor very hard to start. A few years ago I was hand cranking a C and it would start when I would crank it very very slowly, but not if I cranked it at a normal speed.
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Dick L ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edon Ohio Points: 5087 |
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Quick check would be to put a little oil in a plug hole and rig a compressed hose to each cylinder. Set the pressure at around 100 pounds and listen for leaks with both valves closed. If you have pressure regulator start lower and increase pressure until it will not hold.
If the leak sound is in the exhaust below 80 pounds you have a bad valve seal. |
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Orange Blood ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 29 Nov 2010 Location: ColoradoSprings Points: 4053 |
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If it's a brand new overhaul, as you suggest, I imagine the rings have not seated in yet either, which will also drop compression some.
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