tips for new tractor owners

A lot of us have used tractors for years, I thought I'd start a post for folks to share tips they have learned through the years to help those new to tractors.

I learned (after almost rolling a tractor). if you only have 1 tire loaded on the rear of the tractor, make sure to keep the loaded tire up hill.

My tip would be buy a good owners and repair manual, not an IT manual. A good manual is a wealth of information.

Promoting that they should ask questions, on a knowledgeable site like this even if not considering an A-C.
When I am asked to help someone decide, my first question is ALWAYS "what do you want to do with the tractor". How big is your place is also a factor as many feel they want something small to get started but push that small unit beyond both operating and safety limits later.
Then on to hydraulics requirements, loader use if they have not used one and I always stress "a loader tractor is not a bulldozer".
Gas vs. diesel is also a big one, and "gray market" tractors they may be looking at that have no parts support, etc.
Have actually talked a few out of buying a real tractor as they had little use for what they thought they needed, beyond some initial work on property they were purchasing. Advise some to rent a decent FWD, have the work hired or have even done some work for folks reasonably myself as it seems many just need a real "garden tractor".
Some people are afraid to ask questions, ripe for an unscrupulous salesman that sells them something they do not need and "trailer packages" are the rage down here the last ten years.
Lite duty JD FWD, loader, back blade (or box blade with scarifiers) and a four-six foot brush cutter where a trailer is included in the package.
They sell a monthly payment that they naturally finance.
Questions are free . . . .

Have lots of storage space. When one tractor shows up others will start to follow u home.

Common sence helps a bunch here

Totally agree with the safety issue. The older stuff doesn't have the shields and guards like the new equipment. But that being said use any and all guards that are available. Being alittle scared doesn't hurt. When fixing a problem start with the simple fixes first and don't be afraid to ask for help. If these guys help me out they will help anyone.

Old Timer advice to me was 1). If in doubt go slower and 2). If you got there going forward you'll be able to back out in reverse. A lot of people try to solve an uncomfortable position by continuing forward. And always keep that loader down low.

dt1050 wrote: Josh(NE) wrote: My tip would be buy a good owners and repair manual, not an IT manual. A good manual is a wealth of information. Agree, I've had the IT manual and while there helpful they are not nearly as good as a repair manual. grab a cinder block and walk on a hill.  first try it holding it in your down hill hand, it will want to pull  you over and down the hill, if it's on the up hill side, it will pull towards the hill and will help keep you balanced.   it's best to keep fluid in both wheels or non at all. Sorry, I can't really explain the specifics in a scientific way.

I've been driving tractors for 20 years and I learn something new everything day, but I'm pretty much a flatlander here in Indiana. I guess I knew that about loaders and such but newer really thought about tires or weights.

Tbone95 wrote: DougG wrote: Common sence helps a bunch here Common sense: the most inaccurately named characteristic of the human race.

pennies, nickles, dimes, quarters?

dt1050 wrote: Tbone95 wrote: DougG wrote: Common sence helps a bunch here Common sense: the most inaccurately named characteristic of the human race. pennies, nickles, dimes, quarters?

I don't get what you're saying.

Scott B has good advice "always keep that loader down low" I have put a lot of hours on my AGCO ST-32 compact 4WD this winter with the snow we have had. Even a bucket full of snow too high in the air can cause you to tip on uneven ground. Also, raising the loader with one side of the bucket caught in frozen snow can make 'er tip. Fortunatly, me and my ST-32 are still upright. Bob@allisdowneast   

Here is a list of things that I have put together over the years.  It is help from numerous other people on this and other forums.  I hope it can help someone else, as it has helped me.

I print it out whenever I am going to look at a new (to me) one.  Has helped a little in purchases of implements also.

Hope it can help someone else.  Sorry it is rather lengthy, but......it needs to be!!
(Anybody else who feels I should add to it, just let me know!!) and THANKS!!

Buying a Tractor Check List

Tools to Bring: Flashlight, Wrenches, clear jar, clear tubing

Prospective Tractor Evaluation Sheet
    Year:
    Make:
    Model:
    Serial Number:
    Asking Price:
    Hours:
    Name/Address/Phone of seller.
 
General Questions For Seller
    What do you know about the unit’s history?
    Why are they selling the machine?
    What are they replacing the machine with?
    Do they have any manuals for it OEM Owner’s Manual, Parts Manual, Service Manual?
    Implements they used?
    What was the machine used for most often?
    Lay of their land?
    Can you deliver the machine/delivery cost?
    How long has it been for sale?
    Has it been stored inside?
    Any implements go with the machine?
    What repairs and work has been done to the machine?
    Who has maintained the machine (Owner, Professional)?
    Is there anything you know doesn’t work?
     jump gears, engine noise, power director pops out, overheats?
    What would they all fix if they were keeping the machine?
 

Walk Around
    Front narrow/wide:
    Power Steering:
    Roll Shift front axle work:

Tire condition:
    Front tires (size)
    Rear tires (size)
    Is there fluid in the tires?
    Power Adjust wheels work:
    How corroded are the wheels:
    Any wheel weights, if so how much?
    Push in and pull out on rear wheels if they move there is a problem (B, C, CA)

Go over the cast and steel components and look for hairline cracks

Any evidence of leaks
    Motor (head seepage):
    Hydraulics:
    Finals:
    Tranny:

How many hydraulic remotes:
    External hydraulic pump or controls:

Hitch system?
    Are all parts there i.e. lift latches, 3pt conversion, drawbar?

Rust locations and severity:
    Rust painted over, pitted metal painted:

Dents in tin:

Missing parts:

Damaged parts:
    Ware on pedals (match hours?):
    Ware on drawbar:
    Paint/decal condition?
        Is it original, overspray, stickers.

Pre-Drive Test

Drain some engine oil
    Is there water in it?
    Is there metal in it?

Suck some coolant out
    Is there antifreeze in it?
    Is there any oil in it?
    Any corrosion seen looking from the cap?

Drain/Suck some transmission oil
    Is there water in it?
    Is there metal in it?

Drain/Suck some Hydraulic oil
    Is there water in it?
    Is there metal in it

Power steering tight, how much slop in wheel?

Drive Test
    Throttle goes up and down smooth?

Test Cold Start
    Does it start easily:
    (good bat, compression, wiring, ignition, tune up, fuel flow, carb are implied)

Look:
    Does it smoke
    (blue smoke=oil burning; rings, pistons, valve guides. White/black can frequently be corrected by carb or ignition changes)

Listen:
    Ticking from the top of the engine may be valve adjustment
    A deep thunk from the bottom or middle of the engine indicate serious repairs
    The clunk should be more pronounced under load.
    This may be an indication of problems with the crankshaft, bearings, or piston rods.

Do all the gauges work?
    Tach, hours, oil pressure, ammeter, traction booster (float), water temp, fuel

Charging system:
    Should be a slight charge on the ammeter when the engine is running and a change in level when the lights are turned on
    (indicates the regulator/resistor switch and cutout is operating). At running speed, no discharge should be shown.
    Do the lights work:
    6 or 12V?
    Alternator or Generator?
    Voltages listed on starter, voltage regulator, and generator

Brake Test (must remove finals to service them)
    1st gear high side press R brake turn to R, does tractor spin & wheel lock:
    1st gear high side press L brake turn to L, does tractor spin & wheel lock:
    Press both brakes does tractor stop:
    Parking brake work:

 Test Running Hot:
    Does it run well hot after ~half-hour running:

After running look for leaks
    Oil:
    Antifreeze:

After warmed up shut it down and see if it will start again:

Check oil for foaming or presence of water. This is a show stopper.
Is there head seepage

Hydraulics:
    Rams lift all the way:
    Rams extend all the way:
    Rams hold for a long time with implement lifted:
    Any knocking/chatter when the pump runs (Chatter indicates low flow and excessive ware):

PTO turns off and on:

Does foot clutch slip, how’s it feel:

Transmission Tests:
    Gear popping in 2nd or 3rd is most common. 
    To test go down a hill under load at ½ throttle. 
    Or put it in 3rd with tractor off and have someone help you rock it back and forth, if the tranny is real bad it will pop out.
On D-Series Tractors
    1st gear high side, gear & PD stay engaged:
    1st gear low side, gear & PD stay engaged:
    2nd gear high side, gear & PD stay engaged:
    2nd gear low side, gear & PD stay engaged:
    3rd gear high side, gear & PD stay engaged:
    3rd gear low side, gear & PD stay engaged:
    4th gear high side, gear & PD stay engaged:
    4th gear low side, gear & PD stay engaged:
    R gear high side, gear & PD stay engaged:
    R gear low side, gear & PD stay engaged:
Power director:
    Snaps high and stays there:
    Snaps low and stays there:
    Motion stops in neutral:
Drain/Suck some Power Director oil
    Is there water in it?
    Is there metal in it

I buy em junk price and fix em up some.  that way I don't get screwed on the front end. I can always junk it.

David G. wrote: Don't bypass switches such as the foot clutch saftey switch(if equiped). This makes it really easy to start from the ground and one day you will attempt to start it in gear (because you are in a hurry and forgot to put the transmission in neutral). Easy way to get hurt or killed.

Back in the 80's a neighbor and his wife were killed that way. He had been using a pliers to bypass at the solenoid on a 4WD Case with duals and they figure he got ran over first then she tried to get in the tractor to stop it and she got ran over too. Another neighbor had noticed this tractor driving in circles in the yard with a disk so he drove up and found nothing but pieces.

Tbone95 wrote: DougG wrote: Common sence helps a bunch here Common sense: the most inaccurately named characteristic of the human race.

If common sense were common, EVERYONE would have it.