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Eldon (WA) 
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Spokane, WA
Points: 7765
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 Topic: Tips for freeing tie rods
Posted: 21 Sep 2012 at 9:30am |
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Anyone have a good way to free up tie rods that haven't been moved in years? I've used heat before, but that kinda cooks the paint. I need to move the front wheels out on my 175D with the old style front end and am not looking forward to this job.....
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john(MI)
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: SE MI
Points: 9262
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Posted: 21 Sep 2012 at 9:37am |
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I'm thinking I used a pipe wrench when I pulled my D14 apart a couple years back.
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D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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GregLawlerMinn
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Lawler, Mn
Points: 1226
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Posted: 21 Sep 2012 at 9:55am |
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Pipe wrenches and panther pi$$ work on some. The more corroded ones need to be heated red hot before using the pipe wrenches. Once free; wire brush and apply lots of never seize.
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What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2.
With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC
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carl
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Chicago
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Posted: 21 Sep 2012 at 10:41am |
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I recently did this on our 45, one tie rod end had been replaced and the other one needed to be adjusted to get them even. Paint isn't too great on it, so we (my brother was helping) spread the clamp area a bit with a taper chisel, kept soaking it with WD-40 (not the best but it was available), kept tapping on it along the length with two hammers, then pressed it apart with a hydraulic hand press. Finally came, cleaned it up with emery cloth, lubed it, and it's like new. But it took an hour and a half! Carl
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Ted J
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Joined: 05 Jul 2010
Location: La Crosse, WI
Points: 18923
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Posted: 21 Sep 2012 at 10:41am |
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Greg, when I used never-seize on mine, they slipped after that. I had to take it all off or they would walk their way in or out. PITA!!
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19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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Eldon (WA)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Spokane, WA
Points: 7765
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Posted: 21 Sep 2012 at 11:17pm |
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Thanks guys....just thought that if we could put a man on the moon 43 years ago someone would have found an easy way to free up tie rods.....
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ctbowles58
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Joined: 17 Jun 2011
Location: Clarksville, MO
Points: 2249
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Posted: 22 Sep 2012 at 12:03am |
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i used heat on my 190XT and re-painted
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190XT 2WD45 WF D15 D14 CA BIG10 302 & 303 bailers 77G rake 80R mower 6 plows and alot more
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Dakota Dave
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: ND
Points: 3968
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Posted: 22 Sep 2012 at 9:21am |
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aaaaaaaaaafter fighting with mine on the WD45 Itook them off into the shop heated and spread the tubes tapped with a hammer on the anvil and used a Highlift jack to lenghten them. then I ordered new assemblies from OK tractor they have worked great ever since. If I rember correctly they were only about $50 each.
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Eldon (WA)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Spokane, WA
Points: 7765
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Posted: 22 Sep 2012 at 10:08pm |
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Well I took the hot wrench to them this afternoon...first one came with one hot flame session....second one took 4 times, a busted pipe wrench and a lot of ugly marks...Oh well, I am now set out to 8' and have the 20" tubeless tires on the front. If I need it for bush hogging now I just have to swap the loaded rear 18.4 x 28's for the empty 18.4 x 30's....not too bad of a job considering both are set way out (which is necessary to access the lug nuts on the inside).
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Don(MO)
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Bates City MO.
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Posted: 23 Sep 2012 at 9:16am |
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I have used the wagon jack but I have found it faster to just remove the tie rod assy from the tractor and put them in the press and press them in a inch or two and them use the wagon jack (I put the jack in the vice to hold it) to move them out or off all the way; no heat or pipe wrench marks or bent tie rod ends.
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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