Time to get it running - coolant leak

So my '50 WD is still not running from when the governor weights came apart last summer. I did a compression check a while back and one cylinder was down enough that I pulled the head. Replaced the head gasket with a Felpro from Napa, though I didn't do any copper spray or anything. Torqued to spec, finally got the thermostat housing sealed, but still couldn't get it started. Then I noticed coolant leaking from the head gasket all the way down the left side, enough to drip off the bottom of the block. I was so pissed off and frustrated that I haven't touched it for several months, but I really need to get it running again.




What could it be? The old head gasket wasn't even blown, so I kinda doubt it warped the head or block. I'm concerned about coolant leaking into the cylinders as well so I haven't tried starting it, which also means the head hasn't been retorqued after a heat cycle.

I'm also not sure my magneto ignition timing is still set right, but that's a topic for another post.

You need to check the head real close for cracks.  Probly not a head gasket problem.  One other thing to check is to see if the holes for the head gasket are dirty enough to tighten to torque and not be tight on the head. 

Gunk in the holes is a good suggestion, I'll definitely try that. Best way to get the studs out? Double nut?

Any advantage to hi-tack vs copper spray?

My keys moved again. Antiseeze

As long as the coolant aint leaking into the oil pan, I use Blue Devil block sealer, it works pretty good, it contains sodium salicylate, which goes from liquid to solid, when it goes through a leak, and cools down...

Ashaman, Early WD's may be different than my WD 45 but mine has cap screws (bolts) at least on the out side of the valve cover where I can see them. The A-C Parts Manual shows a combination of capscrews and studs. Ten capscrews and 5 studs. The A-C Service Manual also recommends checking the tapped holes for thread depth if you have a leaking head gasket and to retap the holes, if necessary. Do you have manuals for your WD? Again, yours may be different if someone put it back together with all studs and no capscrews. The head gasket on mine had a slight leak to the outside of the block when I bought it and I found that the head gasket looked fine (with no coolant in the cylinders and good compression check) but the tapped holes had crud in the threads that was affecting the torque (at least on the capscrews).   Hope this helps.

Edited by RickM(MO) - 27 Jun 2016 at 2:35pm

Ashaman, I took a closer look at the Parts Manual and if you have a 1950 WD with Engine No. prior to 289000, then it has all studs and no capscrews. So you were right about the studs all along. Attached is a copy of the Parts Manual Page 43 and Service Manual Pages 11 & 12, in case you don't have them. You said you torqued the studs to 75 lbs. For what it's worth: Page 12 of my Service Manual says to torque to 90 lbs. which I assume is for the 1/2 dia. capscrews on the later heads. My book doesn't say what to torque the studs to and it depends somewhat on what steel they are made of, so hopefully you are Ok at 75 lbs. Maybe someone else will know for sure.

Now that really is weird. I'm gonna have to go look at my '54 WD parts tractor/long term project and see what it has. I ran across the 70 or 90 ft lb debate, and it seems that only the 226 engines had the 90 ft lb spec, where the 201's are 70. I basically got the studs nice and tight and then torqued the nuts to 75. It's had coolant in it for a day and a half now and no apparent seepage down the block, so that's good!

Turn the governor link rod around.....you've got it on backwards. Cotter key goes to the inside behind the generator.