Throwing this on the table for discussion

I would put it in the engine.    You're gonna need good power to play with all the other "stock" tractors.   You should be able to do something relatively cheap by going with a 45 crank, and some WD/WC pistons shaved down or some other pistons to give you some better compression.    Get the motor running hot and you'll do fine in the antique classes.   The only other thing would be to make a good adjustable rigid drawbar setup as high and as close to centerline as your local rules will allow.   Then go out and get addicted. 

You might just have enough there to have some fun. 45 crank, WD pistons, WD tranny and differential. :)

ChuckLuedtkeSEWI wrote:   The only other thing would be to make a good adjustable rigid drawbar setup as high and as close to centerline as your local rules will allow.

Chuck, I've heard this from a lot of pullers but it isn't always the case. 99% of the time higher is better but more often than not you don't want the drawbar as close to the axle as rules allow. Ideally, you want any added weight as far out in front of the tractor as the rules allow and the drawbar long enough to make the front end light. You don't want the front end off the ground but you want it light enough that it could run over your toe without crushing it. With this setup you have the most leverage applied to the rear tires that you can achieve with any given weight. You of course still need enough engine to turn the wheels so you can still get in trouble by hooking your tractor up too much though.

Which factors are most important in the class that you plan to pull in?  Does speed count?  If not, you'll spin out in first gear with any WC/WD/WD45 engine.  Power won't matter so much.  If speed counts, of course you want power and RPM so you can pull faster and in a higher gear.  Traction is a whole different breed of cat.  As stated above by others, getting the tractor balanced with as much weight on the rear tires and still keeping the front on the ground becomes more important.

Maybe you could find a Gleaner E motor to put in for some more power?

I would not think that mismatched tires would work out very well on a puller, try to find some older harder tires that are about half worn.

and yes rusty tractors pull just as well as painted ones.

I would throw something together with the best parts available and see what it does. Then see where you need to make changes.

I would suggest a 175 camshaft, and at least build engine to 175 specs,

Fred in Pa wrote: What a can of WORM's have you opened UP. Pankey you have to stay out of this!!!!!!!!!!  LOu ,you like to start #%^&%$ .LMAO

Sorry Fred I didn't realize Lou was in the agitation cycle.  They are better cam grinds than 175 cams if you deal with a custom cam grinder . A custom grind cost the same as a shelf grind also just my two cent

Edited by mlpankey - 16 Dec 2011 at 8:42am

if you offset grind the crank you can use the farmall rods . I think a chrysler piston would come more near working than a chevy unless you make some sleeves for the 427 truck piston.  I  use the 632 promod chevy piston but on 6 inches of stroke.  They are also a 8.5 inch non allis diesel rod out there that will fit in the place of a 262 buda rod if the 226 crank journal has been ground for the buda rod. this makes the rod 1 inch longer than the original so the cam will definately need a custom grind cause the piston will dwell considerably longer ps now the bottom end is where the cubic dollars flow from the wallet.

Edited by mlpankey - 16 Dec 2011 at 12:34pm

some motivational pictures