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Hawsie 
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Joined: 06 Apr 2013
Location: Clayton, CA.
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 Topic: The right way to remove a D17 injection pump?
Posted: 17 Apr 2019 at 10:53pm |
I needed to rebuild the injection pump on a D17 so I read instructions on how to do it, which were from this site. What I wasn't sure about was how to set up the engine prior to removal, for timing and wether you needed to remove the front engine cover to access the gear. Well from the forum someone said to do this
Remove timing window on side of pump (2 screws) rotate engine until both lines inside pump lines up. Remove all lines, linkage and any thing that is behind pump keeping it from sliding back about three inches. Remove the two mount bolts and slide pump back. MACK
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Hawsie
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Joined: 06 Apr 2013
Location: Clayton, CA.
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Posted: 17 Apr 2019 at 11:00pm |
SO I first removed the timing window and immediately found the stationary mark in the pump but I turned the engine over , and over, and over and never found the other timing mark on the turning part of the pump. SO I just made my own mark. Then I moved on to removing the pump. I undid everything, the lines the linkage, the 2 studded nuts and then attempted to slide out the pump. Well it came out but there is still a stub shaft stuck in the engine! See picture. So now what should I do? DO I need to remove the front cover to remove the stub shaft or can I slide the pump back in after rebuild back onto the stub shaft. That doesn't really seem like the right way. But I don't really know at this point. uploads/9178/IMG_2533.jpg
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HD6GTOM
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Joined: 30 Nov 2009
Location: MADISON CO IA
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Posted: 17 Apr 2019 at 11:29pm |
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I hope you had the timing marks on the front of the engine lined up too. When I took mine off the series 4, that shaft came out with the pump. Some of these other guys that are more knowledgeable on this will chime in tomorrow.
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MACK
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Posted: 18 Apr 2019 at 6:53am |
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Shaft should stay in motor. If the weight retainer is not replaced your mark will work. MACK
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DougS
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Location: Iowa
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Posted: 18 Apr 2019 at 7:11am |
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Remember that the engine mark may be 360 degrees off if you turn the engine after the pump is removed.
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MACK
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Posted: 18 Apr 2019 at 9:27pm |
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No, 180 degrees. MACK
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Hawsie
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Posted: 18 Apr 2019 at 11:19pm |
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if I look into the hole in the pump where the shaft goes and it has the screwdriver type slot in it, so apparently as long as I don't turn the engine I should be able to put it in only 2 different ways right? the right way or 180 off. And Also when I look in there, there is a difference from one side of the slot to the other which means I can tell whether the pump will be in the exact spot or 180 off. This would be regardless of my mark. I am going to make a note of this so when I get it back I should be able to put it in same way. Now there is some seals on the stub shaft I guess I better hope I get these when I get the pump back? My last concern is wether the rebuild guy be able to spin the pump without me sending in the stub shaft? I hope so as I like the idea of not removing it. I didn't mention that this tractor has never run since I have owned it so I guess I really don't know if the pump was in the right place to begin with but it doesn't look like anyone has removed it in many years if ever.
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DougS
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Location: Iowa
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Posted: 19 Apr 2019 at 4:34am |
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There should be a timing mark on the pump. Set it there and mark the engine while the pump is set at that timing mark. Just know that if you turn the engine after the pump is removed, you'll need to turn the engine a full two turns (720 degrees) before stopping at the mark again. Otherwise you'll be off 360 degrees. Always turn the engine in its normal rotation. If you try to back up to the original timing mark your gear backlash will throw the timing off a few degrees.
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calico190xt68
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Joined: 12 Jan 2017
Location: Frankton, IN
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Posted: 19 Apr 2019 at 8:12am |
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Not sure if my 190XT pump experience applies to this pump but I too had trouble finding the mark. I had to get a 14 year old with better eyes than mine and he found it, although it was so faint, I don't know how he did. Ed told me that if the lines were right, I could take off the injector line at the 3 o'clock position and I should see the interior hole as lined up. It was, and so I knew that it was good to remove and worked out fine in the long run. Hope this helps.
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80 7010 w/Cab, 67 190XTD Series I w/500 Loader, AC 2000 Plow, AC 4 row Planter, AC 77G Rake, Member Indiana A-C Partners, Member TAC
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injpumpEd
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Walnut IL
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Posted: 19 Apr 2019 at 8:40am |
 Hawsie wrote:
if I look into the hole in the pump where the shaft goes and it has the screwdriver type slot in it, so apparently as long as I don't turn the engine I should be able to put it in only 2 different ways right? the right way or 180 off. And Also when I look in there, there is a difference from one side of the slot to the other which means I can tell whether the pump will be in the exact spot or 180 off. This would be regardless of my mark. I am going to make a note of this so when I get it back I should be able to put it in same way. Now there is some seals on the stub shaft I guess I better hope I get these when I get the pump back? My last concern is wether the rebuild guy be able to spin the pump without me sending in the stub shaft? I hope so as I like the idea of not removing it. I didn't mention that this tractor has never run since I have owned it so I guess I really don't know if the pump was in the right place to begin with but it doesn't look like anyone has removed it in many years if ever. |
A good pump shop does not need the shaft from the engine, and should also send the cup seals and banjo washers. Just put the pump back on with the tangs matching dot to dot. You pump rebuilder should be able to coach you through this some. If not, time for a new pump guy lol!
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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SteveM C/IL
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
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Posted: 19 Apr 2019 at 9:35pm |
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The umbrella seals can be tricky installing pump. The one facing the pump is the one to worry about. You can roll it over when putting pump on. I have had my pump off my 220 3 different times over the years and never had a problem with the seal but you have to go slow and gentle and kind of feel your way through it. Never had the "special tool" to help so it's possible. Keep eye on crankcase oil after installation. If rolled it will put fuel in the engine oil. Ed,you know a good pump guy? LOL
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injpumpEd
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Posted: 20 Apr 2019 at 9:01am |
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The 210/220 have a steel pilot tube with a very generous taper, and the tool isn't even needed for those if oiled up enough. The brass pilot tubes however and not tapered much at all, and extreme care needs taken when doing those installations. I don't really know any good pump guys anymore lol!
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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SteveM C/IL
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
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Posted: 20 Apr 2019 at 10:49pm |
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Here I thought I was just "good at it". PFFFT!
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