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Stripped bolt removal ?
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john(MI) View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: SE MI
Points: 9263 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john(MI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Stripped bolt removal ?
    Posted: 26 Sep 2020 at 1:00pm
Thanks for the help guys.  The mower is only a couple years old.  This blade was put on by the dealer.  I think the kid had fun with the impact.  Like I said, I hope he didn't cross thread it.
D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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Coke-in-MN View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Afton MN
Points: 41226 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coke-in-MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Sep 2020 at 10:59am
why they make 6 point sockets - hard to round off corners  - and here is where a small grinder comes in to cut the present rounded head down some on each flat side and restore corners to next smaller size head . It could be you only need a small amount of grinding to get metric socket to fit or a full 1/16 th to get to next size 
  Now if that doesn't work - weld the bolt to the blade , use a BFH hit blade end in proper rotation direction using the blade as the wrench  - when removed - grind bolt lose from blade 
Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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Joined: 31 Aug 2012
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Points: 11422 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Sep 2020 at 7:19am
Originally posted by HD6GTOM HD6GTOM wrote:

They make a set of removers for stuff like this. You drive them over the rounded bolt head and put a socket on the unit and hopefully unscrew the bolt. We used them at the tire shop to remove lug nuts people had rounded off. Most times, with driving this on and the vibe from an impact wrench, the bolt/but comes off.

“To remove lug nuts people had rounded off “

That strikes my funny bone and anger bone at the same time. I’m not “ all people “ and your tire shop was not “all tire shops”. But I’m here to say, I’ve had WAYYYYYY more trouble with things coming out of a tire shop, lots of different ones, than problems of my own doing!
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 21587 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Sep 2020 at 6:01am
heat won't bother the bearings, 99% of the heat goes to the bolt, then the spindle( shaft) and the bolt heats up before any real heat gets to the bearings.
if ,IF, you're really, really lucky,...heat the bolt goodnhot, clamp vise grips on and try one quick 1/4 turn to see if it breaks free, then off 1/4 turn, on 1/8 turn, repeat with heat if necessary until bolt comes out.
After it does come out , 'chase' the hole several times, use air to blow the crud out, oil a bit, chase again, blow it again....then use lots of neverseive, chase the hole,lots of neversieze on the bolt shank near the head...to keep an water from wicking up the threads...ANY rust spells trouble....

now the real 'fun' is when that don't work and you need to get the whole spindle assembly off the deck ! Apply LOTS of heat,oil to the steel screws and cross your fingers THEY come out of the aluminum housing.....again little out, less little back in, repeat...

it's a krap shoot(75-25) but  usually I win IF if use heat,oil and PATIENCE...
Jay
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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HD6GTOM View Drop Down
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Joined: 30 Nov 2009
Location: MADISON CO IA
Points: 6627 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HD6GTOM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Sep 2020 at 10:53pm
They make a set of removers for stuff like this. You drive them over the rounded bolt head and put a socket on the unit and hopefully unscrew the bolt. We used them at the tire shop to remove lug nuts people had rounded off. Most times, with driving this on and the vibe from an impact wrench, the bolt/but comes off.
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Lars(wi) View Drop Down
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
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Points: 6709 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lars(wi) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Sep 2020 at 10:08pm
After you eventually get the stud out, use anti-seize on the replacement.
I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
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Points: 78102 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Sep 2020 at 7:24pm
weld a nut onto the head... thats not enough heat to hurt the bearings, and the heat could help break up corrosion inside..... or grind off the head and remove the blade.. then use grips to remove the remaining stud... if is slips, slide a nut OVER the stud and weld it on , then remove.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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john(MI) View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Points: 9263 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john(MI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Sep 2020 at 6:47pm
I stripped the head of the bolt that holds the blade on my mower deck.  I don't want to use heat because the bearings are right there.  I tried vise grips, and a small pipe wrench.  I called the dealer to male sure it didn't have left hand threads, it don't.  I don't know how they got this thing on there so tight without damaging anything.  I sure hope they didn't cross thread it!

Any of you folks got a suggestion for what to try next?
D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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