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dr p 
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Joined: 24 Feb 2019
Location: new york
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 Topic: Sticking valve wd 45
Posted: 17 May 2024 at 5:48pm |
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Tractor is running rough with a "pop" that is irregular. Tractor is fouling plugs way too easily. Changed coil, different carb drained and cleaned fuel tank, double checked timing. Tractor has electronic igition. It occured to me (during a bunch of boring silver fillings) that the valves may be sticking. The tractor had a recent (200 hours) complete engine rebuild. If it is sticky valves, could i pull the head and clean the valves ?
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: 17 May 2024 at 5:56pm |
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Valve lash to be set at .015" COLD intake and exhaust. Remove all the spark plugs and run a good compression test. Throttle wide open and a battery charger on the battery. If you have valves sticking (which I doubt) the compression test will reveal it. 200 hrs on an OH the compression should be perfect between all the cylinders, like 120-120-120-120.
Edited by DrAllis - 17 May 2024 at 5:57pm
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PaulB
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Location: Rocky Ridge Md
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Posted: 17 May 2024 at 7:05pm |
I've encountered many automotive shops that get the valve guide to valve stem clearance too tight. That with valve stem seals make valves stick just after doing a valve job. I never put seals on the exhaust valves when I do tractor heads.
DrP: You might just pull the valve cover first and see what you have. Find the one that's sticking and lubricate it liberally and work it up and down.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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dr p
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Posted: 17 May 2024 at 7:55pm |
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So doc, what do you think it is?
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DrAllis
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Posted: 17 May 2024 at 7:57pm |
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You do what you want. A well performed compression test will verify valve problems or not. A-C engines never used valve seals on the guides, altho some people put them on anyway.
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dr p
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Posted: 17 May 2024 at 7:59pm |
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Sorry
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Steve in NJ
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Posted: 18 May 2024 at 6:17am |
Joseppie, I would first check the firing order to make sure you don't have a wire crossed. Do the simple checks first. A simple crossed wire will foul a couple plugs. If that checks out okay, lift the valve cover and check valve lash cold like Doc Allis said. You might just simply have a tight valve or two. Is the popping on the intake side or is it popping in the exhaust? When I first started my WF after its resto, I had a popping in the exhaust every once in a while with a rough idle. I had to tight an exhaust valve on #3. Went through all the valves the following day after cool down and found two more that were a tick on the tight side. Put it back together and it run nice n' smooth. Much better throttle response as well.... HTH. Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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dr p
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Posted: 18 May 2024 at 5:21pm |
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Well all four cylinders were between 120 and 130 so i was wrong about the stuck valve. The clearance on a bunch of the valves were tighter than a rch so adjusted them back to 014 cold. Opened up the fuel screw a half turn. It still isn't perfect i set the timing by ear. Going to borrow a timing light and see if that gets her to 100%
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DrAllis
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Posted: 18 May 2024 at 6:28pm |
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Retighten all your manifold bolts when the engine is COLD to be sure there's not a vaccum leak.
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Boss Man
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Posted: 19 May 2024 at 5:33pm |
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Could be a bad spark plug wire arcing out/ shorting across. Electronic ignition requires higher quality wires for the higher voltage
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dr p
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Posted: 19 May 2024 at 5:39pm |
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I think it was a lot of little things. Probably older gas, a carburetor that needed a more careful cleaning. The valves were certainly an issue, and the manifold bolts weren't at 20 foot pounds any more. Got a full afternoon of plowing in. Think some dental patients are going to get rescheduled this week. Thank you doc, steve, paul and bossman for helping
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