splitting cradle for 210

I saw a picture of a guy that used two 'trailer tongue jacks, wheeled version' on the 'bell housing' of his engine.

Naturally I have 8 jacks, ALL with 'feet' NOT wheels.....

3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water

something similar to this... adjustable on EACH side so you can rock the tractor slightly to align... and wheels to roll.... attache to bell housing or rear of engine...

To stabalize the BACK end, you dont need anything fancy... block up wooden blockes under the transmission and pto housing area to keep everything stationary.

Like them all, but love the "B"s.

Unfortunately, the D-21/210-220 wasn't designed as nice as the 200 chassis on down to the One-Eighty. The engines backplate isn't sandwiched between each side frame and the bellhousing when assembled, thus not allowing you to use two long 7/8" dowel bolts to hold up the rear of the engine when split. Then, the rear axle pivot pin is also not attached to the engines backplate , making the split apart situation even more unhandy. The design engineers expected you to remove the hood/radiator and then the 1,000 lb front support out of the way first, then the side frames, and then lift the engine out like pulling an engine out of a car. A lot of work for a foot clutch or rear seal. The "official" OTC splitting stand had a fork attachment that went underneath the oil pan rails to support the rear of the engine, but you still had to use blocks of wood to keep the tail of the front axle from falling down. They really wised up on the next generation big frame tractors, making them even better for a simple split than the 180-200.

Edited by DrAllis - 14 Aug 2022 at 10:25am

I have this original set I use like Doc was describing. I also have a over gantry witch I use most of time ,when they in my shop for repairs hood is off anyways .

He who dies with the most toys is,
nonetheless ,still dead.
If all else fails ,Read all that is PRINTED.

'easier,quicker' ?...

Install an Ibeam in garage, use 2 chain hosts on 2 trolleys, 1 per 1/2 of tractor.

makes it a dream to split tractor

Since my beam is 'side to side', I have to drive in, turn a zillion times to get her dead center underneath the beam. After that , it's an enjoyable afternoon !

3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water

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Kevin210 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 08 Oct 2018 Location: Indiana Points: 409	Post Options Post Reply Quote Kevin210 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: splitting cradle for 210 Posted: 12 Aug 2022 at 7:45pm
	Rear main is leaking on my 210.Does any one have a cradle for this tractor they could send pictures of what it looks like or how you hold up front carriage and the back of the engine.

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jaybmiller Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 24340	Post Options Post Reply Quote jaybmiller Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 13 Aug 2022 at 7:56am
	I saw a picture of a guy that used two 'trailer tongue jacks, wheeled version' on the 'bell housing' of his engine. Naturally I have 8 jacks, ALL with 'feet' NOT wheels.....
	3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water

SteveM C/IL Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8482	Post Options Post Reply Quote SteveM C/IL Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 13 Aug 2022 at 9:03am
	I borrowed an average splitting stand.had wheels. Was able to jack/block engine under pan across legs of stand. 8070

steve(ill) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 85549	Post Options Post Reply Quote steve(ill) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 13 Aug 2022 at 8:14pm
	something similar to this... adjustable on EACH side so you can rock the tractor slightly to align... and wheels to roll.... attache to bell housing or rear of engine... To stabalize the BACK end, you dont need anything fancy... block up wooden blockes under the transmission and pto housing area to keep everything stationary.
	Like them all, but love the "B"s.

steve(ill) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 85549	Post Options Post Reply Quote steve(ill) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 13 Aug 2022 at 8:17pm
	I have a bunch of 6x6 blocks about 24 inches long.. I stack them up like lincoln logs and build a "log cabin" under the transmission and under the pto areas.. rear wheels on ground with a "stabelizer" in front of and behind them..
	Like them all, but love the "B"s.

DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21383	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 14 Aug 2022 at 8:01am
	Unfortunately, the D-21/210-220 wasn't designed as nice as the 200 chassis on down to the One-Eighty. The engines backplate isn't sandwiched between each side frame and the bellhousing when assembled, thus not allowing you to use two long 7/8" dowel bolts to hold up the rear of the engine when split. Then, the rear axle pivot pin is also not attached to the engines backplate , making the split apart situation even more unhandy. The design engineers expected you to remove the hood/radiator and then the 1,000 lb front support out of the way first, then the side frames, and then lift the engine out like pulling an engine out of a car. A lot of work for a foot clutch or rear seal. The "official" OTC splitting stand had a fork attachment that went underneath the oil pan rails to support the rear of the engine, but you still had to use blocks of wood to keep the tail of the front axle from falling down. They really wised up on the next generation big frame tractors, making them even better for a simple split than the 180-200. Edited by DrAllis - 14 Aug 2022 at 10:25am

Calvin Schmidt Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario Can. Points: 4529	Post Options Post Reply Quote Calvin Schmidt Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 14 Aug 2022 at 9:48am
	I built a set of splitting stands that bolt to frame rail. Has an adjustable cross member to support the axle wishbone. I use a spacer block to support the back of the engine from the wishbone. Have split D-21, 210,220's with this setup. Haven't even removed the hood.
	Nothing is impossible if it is properly financed

Fred in Pa Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Hanover Pa. Points: 9210	Post Options Post Reply Quote Fred in Pa Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Aug 2022 at 8:30am
	I have this original set I use like Doc was describing. I also have a over gantry witch I use most of time ,when they in my shop for repairs hood is off anyways .
	He who dies with the most toys is, nonetheless ,still dead. If all else fails ,Read all that is PRINTED.

Kevin210 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 08 Oct 2018 Location: Indiana Points: 409	Post Options Post Reply Quote Kevin210 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Aug 2022 at 9:01pm
	Thanks guys. I just don't want to take the bolster,radiator back off. I was thinking i could place a floor jack under wishbone to roll with the whole thing and then use a cherry picker to hold the back of the engine up. I have always left the engine rails on and just slid the motor out the front which is a lot of work by yourself,i'm just looking for an easier quicker way to spit it and someone to kick my behind for not doing it right the first time.

jaybmiller Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 24340	Post Options Post Reply Quote jaybmiller Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 5:47am
	'easier,quicker' ?... Install an Ibeam in garage, use 2 chain hosts on 2 trolleys, 1 per 1/2 of tractor. makes it a dream to split tractor Since my beam is 'side to side', I have to drive in, turn a zillion times to get her dead center underneath the beam. After that , it's an enjoyable afternoon !
	3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water

injpumpEd Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Walnut IL Points: 5062	Post Options Post Reply Quote injpumpEd Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 7:58am
	I made stands out of trailer jacks like mentioned above. I welded wheels to them, not casters, so I could roll it straight ahead and straight back. Casters sometimes go off on their own direction. Then I bolt 2 pieces of angle iron between them on the bottom, and place a bottle jack under the wishbone with another angle iron across the top of jack, and a small piece of 5/8" steel (small part of 7000 series weight bracket I trimmed years ago) that goes between the back of the wishbone and bottom of the rear engine plate. Then I put a bottle jack on a big block under the transmission to support the rear half. Crude but effective.
	210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!