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Splitting 7000 for Powershift and PTO clutch

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Hurst View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Midway, Ky
Points: 1201
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    Posted: 10 Jul 2010 at 7:46am
I think I am going to go on and put all new seals in the clutch packs and clean the valve body and replace the PTO shafts seal between the rear end and the hydraulic/powershift compartment since I am transferring a little fluid between the two compartments.  I have read through the manual a few times on the procedure, but it's not really the clearest explanation.  I also have a new transmission brake to put in, as I think mine is disintegrating, as I have found chunks of friction material (too thick to be from the clutch discs) in the bottom of the hydraulic sump.  What is the best way to do this?  I have an A-Frame with a chain hoist, plenty of logs/blocks of wood, a 3 ton floor jack, 2 skid steers, one with a pallet fork, and some bottle jacks (I also have an air lift, but it's outside and I'd prefer to do this repair inside the shop).  I figured I'd make cab stands out of galvanized piping with the screw on flanges made for supports.  If anyone in central KY has one of the carts made for supporting the torque tube they wouldn't mind loaning, that'd probably be a big help in this endeavor. 

Also, I seem to remember someone saying something about cutting another groove in one of the housings, I think the PTO, to add another lip seal, as they were prone to leaking with just one seal, is there anything like this I should do?  Any other parts that typically go need replacing in these units if they aren't slipping when I take it apart?  I am hoping I can reuse all the plates/discs/wave springs.  I'm not sure about the balls and springs that are in the housings, are they something that should be replaced when apart?  They look like they are check valves.


Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Hurst
1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
5800 Hours
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