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littlemarv 
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 Topic: Spinout rim repair
Posted: 24 Nov 2018 at 4:50pm |
This fall, I scored a set of 24" spinout rims cheap off of Craigslist. I tapped on them with a hammer before I bought them, they felt pretty solid. Then, I found a tire shop nearby that sandblasts, primes, and paints rims, for $40 a piece! I was on top of the world, king of my castle, master of the universe!. I was going to have two nice shiny painted spinout rims for under two Benjamins! Wake up, doofus. Back to the real world. The sandblaster blasted right through one of them. Wouldn't have it any other way. That's old iron.... Well, I have some 24" rims off a WC stashed up at my dads. Brought one down here, used the underlift on the wrecker for a beadbreaker (best idea ever) and dismounted the tire with my two trusty tire spoons and plenty of colorful language. Man tire work is bull work when you do it the old fashioned way. Anyways, I remember reading about how old rims have a different bead area, something about how new tires on old rims have a gap at the bead. Which, I found to be true when I put modern tires on my 36 WC. If you don't say anything, nobody notices. When I put the rims side by side, they have pretty much the same shape, just the lip on the WC rim sticks out quite a bit further. Which is no big deal, it can be trimmed as needed, better to have too much material than not enough, right? So, I guess I will fire up the plasma cutter, cut me some patches and cut out the bad spots, and see how the pieces match up. Looks good so far... I have to contend with the rails too, but should be able to remove the rim material and leave the rail, then weld it back to the new piece. Thanks for looking!
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WF owner
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Posted: 24 Nov 2018 at 4:56pm |
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I always cut out the section to be repaired, then lay it over the donor rim for a pattern. Then I cut slightly outside the pattern lines on the donor rim. (I cut with a grinder, because I don't have a plasma cutter.) I like the patch a little big. I find it's much easier to grind it down a bit, then it is to fill spaces.
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littlemarv
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Posted: 24 Nov 2018 at 5:19pm |
I may use a grinder as well. I found some videos on you tube about rusty rim repair, the guy used a plasma cutter and it sure worked slick. We have a plasma cutter at work, that rarely ever gets used, so I may try that first. In this spot, I think I may just replace a 8" section of the bead area, and not even get into the rim/rail area? Apparently, this rim is the victim of a loaded tire valve stem leak. Like usual.
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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garden_guy
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Posted: 24 Nov 2018 at 7:34pm |
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Ugh, I have a feeling that I have this going on with one of my WDs right now. Look forward to any pics/videos you take along the way with this adventure!
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1955CA
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Posted: 24 Nov 2018 at 8:18pm |
Mine are pretty bad too. The whole area around the valve stems fell right off on mine. Not sure yet if they are worth patching or not.
Are the new ones you can buy from Steiners or Yesterday's tractor as good as the originals? I was thinking of just buying new ones.
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littlemarv
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Posted: 24 Nov 2018 at 8:58pm |
Here is a video that I found on it
Edited by littlemarv - 24 Nov 2018 at 9:01pm
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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Ted J
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Posted: 24 Nov 2018 at 9:40pm |
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Learn how to do it REAL good,,,,I'll drop my rims off. hehehe
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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littlemarv
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Posted: 24 Nov 2018 at 9:47pm |
Yeah, no doubt Ted. A guy could probably do pretty well fixing rotted out rims. Think of how many tractors you see for sale with bad rims (most of them). Steiners wants $450 for a new one.
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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Bill Deppe/AC Salvag
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Posted: 24 Nov 2018 at 10:05pm |
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I've found the CA 24" as expensive and 28" rims. Also, the remans have the rail welded to the rim versus the originals being spot welded
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dt1050
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Posted: 25 Nov 2018 at 4:45am |
had to patch a rim on my d17 backhoe. had a set of rusted up 26 inch rims from my d14. surely they can't have the same lip and design...sure did. cut out the old spot on the 28 inch rim with a cut off wheel, used it as a template on the 26 inch rim from the d14. been about a year and no issues. just make sure ya grind the welds smooth so you don't cut the tubes (if ya use them in your tires).
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B26240
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Posted: 25 Nov 2018 at 6:26am |
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I think you can buy a 24" plain rim with no rails and weld your old rails into the new rims. Biggest problem would be to end up with the rails in the exact right location so they will work properly. Should end up at 1/2 the cost about.
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 25 Nov 2018 at 6:32am |
When I worked on my D-14 rims, I mounted 2x 18" conveyor rollers in a simple wooden jig. That allowed me to spin the rims vertically, as if on the tractor. It made cleaning AND painting the rims a LOT easier with full, 100% access! The horizontal 'turntable' I first bult didn't work very well,had to flip the rim..yeesh they get heavier the more you flip them !!
As for paint, use a 2 part epoxy or urethane at least for the inside and let it get FULLY hard,say a week in warm area, if you can.
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Gary Burnett
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Posted: 25 Nov 2018 at 7:46am |
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If you're not looking for original its a lot cheaper and better in my opinion to go to the loop style rims and a center that will work either 6 or 8 lugs.Centers can usually be bought real cheap.I'll bet I can change the wheel spacing on 4 loop center wheel/rims than anyone can with Power adjust rims.
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 25 Nov 2018 at 9:28am |
Marv, My thought on these rim repairs is that if I have the time and feel it can be patched I do that. I try to put my money into the new tires which I cant fix. Rims I can weld. I think that rust out is from dirt jammed in between the tire and rim. Most of the calcium rot out is usually around the valve stem area. Like you mentioned I would just repair down to the rail. Getting into the rails can be more work. (BTDT) And this is exactly why I have learned to take old rims and get them sandblasted for evaluation before I start any repairs. Sounds like you have the tools to make these repairs. Looking forward to watching your work. (FYI may be just me but I dont wrestle them apart any more either:)) Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 25 Nov 2018 at 9:35am |
Depending how bad it is around those small holes I think I would just fill them with MIG weld and not cut out that area? Or a small 3/8 strip set in where the series of holes are. The edge of the rim looks pretty solid? But the tire side of the rim may be pitted bad??? Just my 2 cents. Regards,
Edited by Sugarmaker - 25 Nov 2018 at 4:41pm
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Reindeer
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Posted: 25 Nov 2018 at 9:55am |
I blew my budget and bought 2 new 24" rims. Once I had them painted and tires mounted, I discovered that the rails on one of them are just slightly off, so the power adjust can't pull one side in all the way in. Wound up setting them a bit wider than I wanted, although no biggie. Just kind of a PITA that they did not get it done right. To have returned it and exchanged it with customs and freight would have cost almost as much as the rim.
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 25 Nov 2018 at 10:33am |
 Reindeer wrote:
I blew my budget and bought 2 new 24" rims. Once I had them painted and tires mounted, I discovered that the rails on one of them are just slightly off, so the power adjust can't pull one side in all the way in. Wound up setting them a bit wider than I wanted, although no biggie. Just kind of a PITA that they did not get it done right.To have returned it and exchanged it with customs and freight would have cost almost as much as the rim. |
Well, That would really aggravate me too! Looks Like Marv has a handle on getting these original rims back in good order. Going to get some popcorn and set back to watch!:) Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Dave(inMA)
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Posted: 25 Nov 2018 at 11:26am |
I'm with Chris!! Maybe a cold one, as well. 
Dave
Edited by Dave(inMA) - 25 Nov 2018 at 11:26am
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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littlemarv
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Posted: 25 Nov 2018 at 12:31pm |
Well, don't get too cozy waiting for more of the story, the rest may take awhile. I had some unprecedented time to myself this weekend, hence the clean workbenches and the motor out and the rims brought inside. Now that I slept on it, I may just do all the cutting here at home with a grinder. That way I can make nice sharp, clean cuts. Whereas with the plasma, if you wiggle a little or cut at an angle, its that much more work to splice in the new piece.
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 25 Nov 2018 at 1:06pm |
Marv, Ok The popcorn is gone already!:) I still use a cut off wheel. The plasma cutter would be a really neat tool to have! Understand on the timing of the next moves. I haven't done a thing on my projects for a week! I had just been thinking about you and wondering when we would see the next project. Very timely. Maybe you will motivate me to keep moving! Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Posted: 25 Nov 2018 at 3:51pm |
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There's a tire shop near me that repairs power adjust rims with the blanks. How he does it is cut the new wheel in half, then cut the old rim in half leaving the rails holding the two halves together. He then cuts one half loose from the rails and uses the remaining half to line up the new half and welds it to the rails. Repeat for the other side and weld the two halves back together. He charges a little over half the cost of a new wheel with the rails.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 25 Nov 2018 at 4:49pm |
Brian Jasper co. Ia wrote:
There's a tire shop near me that repairs power adjust rims with the blanks. How he does it is cut the new wheel in half, then cut the old rim in half leaving the rails holding the two halves together. He then cuts one half loose from the rails and uses the remaining half to line up the new half and welds it to the rails. Repeat for the other side and weld the two halves back together. He charges a little over half the cost of a new wheel with the rails. |
Brian, That is a bunch of work! I split one down the center and changed half of it leaving the rails hanging in air. Lots of moves. I would not want to do that often or again. Also the rims that are resistance welded to the rails would be much more difficult to get apart. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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DiyDave
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Posted: 25 Nov 2018 at 5:39pm |
littlemarv wrote:
Well, don't get too cozy waiting for more of the story, the rest may take awhile. I had some unprecedented time to myself this weekend, hence the clean workbenches and the motor out and the rims brought inside. Now that I slept on it, I may just do all the cutting here at home with a grinder. That way I can make nice sharp, clean cuts. Whereas with the plasma, if you wiggle a little or cut at an angle, its that much more work to splice in the new piece. |
Yep, its hard to beat a little hand grinder, with a cut off disc, a lot easier to see what you are doing, when you aint gotta #10 shade on a welder's mask, in your way. Besides rims are thin and rusty, so IMHO, grinder works best...
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BART
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Posted: 28 Nov 2018 at 10:52am |
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Thie is not related to this post, sorry Ted you sent me a private message and now The site will not let me open them. can you email me if you see this post. bhreinen@hotmail.com Thanks bart
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Posted: 28 Nov 2018 at 11:34am |
Sugarmaker wrote:
Brian Jasper co. Ia wrote:
There's a tire shop near me that repairs power adjust rims with the blanks. How he does it is cut the new wheel in half, then cut the old rim in half leaving the rails holding the two halves together. He then cuts one half loose from the rails and uses the remaining half to line up the new half and welds it to the rails. Repeat for the other side and weld the two halves back together. He charges a little over half the cost of a new wheel with the rails. |
Brian, That is a bunch of work! I split one down the center and changed half of it leaving the rails hanging in air. Lots of moves. I would not want to do that often or again. Also the rims that are resistance welded to the rails would be much more difficult to get apart. Regards, Chris |
Yeah, that might be, but I have more time than money it seems most of the time...
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Dave/cvny
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Posted: 28 Nov 2018 at 12:42pm |
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I have cut and welded a couple of my rims with pretty good luck! I've even done one for a JD 420 which came out real good!
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1955CA
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Posted: 28 Nov 2018 at 1:29pm |
I wish one of you guys was closer to me, LOL.
I found a couple local people that said they will look at mine to see if they can be saved.
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john(MI)
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Posted: 28 Nov 2018 at 10:45pm |
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Clamp a piece of brass or aluminum on one side and weld the holes up. Worked for me. And it's real easy to grind the welds down so they are not visible. I just did one of my car ramps and you can't see it now that it has rusted over and looks like the rest of it.
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chaskaduo
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Posted: 29 Nov 2018 at 8:31am |
A video on actual Allis spinout rim rust hole repair. 25 min long. Hope it's in time to help.
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littlemarv
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Posted: 07 Dec 2018 at 9:39pm |
I'm waiting to get a new angle grinder for Christmas, then I can get going on the rims. In the meantime, I posted an ad looking for centers and eccentrics. Wound up getting three wheels worth. Never hurts to have extras, right? All the eccentrics were frozen, which was fine. Threw them all in a bucket and thought I would try soaking them in diesel fuel overnight. Here is an excellent video on eccentric disassembly and repair. First one, turned with a wrench on the first try! I thought, wow, I have discovered the greatest penetrating oil ever, and no one on Earth knows about it! Amazing! Well, that one must have been free to begin with, because the other 8 I had to heat and beat repeatedly. Got them all freed up and polished up. Everything looks good. Organized and ready for the sandblaster and paint booth come spring. Thanks for looking.
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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