speedi sleeve question

I sleeved the front crankshaft shaft on one of my B's. I thought the seal was centered close enough but I guess not as I have a small leak. Question is-is the seal shot already or can I loosen things up and try to center it again? Will the seal get progressively worse?  I have the correct sleeve and seal. It has run maybe 20 min. It's going to be put away for the winter soon.

Edited by mdm1 - 26 Sep 2018 at 8:32pm

I left the driver on and drove it on as far as it would go. I am wondering if my problem is that the seal is not perfectly centered on the shaft. ? 

The front timing cover on the CE engine dosent self center. I've usually been able to loosten the timing cover bolts and just wiggle it around with the crank pulley installed then tighten it up. If you tore the seal installing it it'll still leak and you'll need to put a new seal in. You should have the engine hanging from the hoist when you do this if it's sitting on the front end befor you tighten the timing cover in place it'll leak every time

When I re-sealed my engine, I had the front end off the tractor. The hole in the timing cover was too small to accept the replacement rubber lip seal, so I bored it out with a dremel tool, trying my best to keep it round. I pressed the new seal in, then filled in the voids around the edge with red Permatex. The black stuff is supposed to have max oil resistance, but red (high temp) is all I had on hand at the time. I placed the cover on the engine over the crankshaft snout and centered it best I could, just by sight, then snugged it down. I noticed it was just a hair off, but didn't worry too much. That was all in 2015, and it's been perfectly dry since. 

Butch(OH) wrote: First thing to do is determine exactly where the leak is coming from instead of blaming the seal. If you have already done that great  but front end leaks can also be between the seal and cover,  Between the speedy sleeve and shaft. Cover gasket and oil pan gasket. Not a model B subject but I fixed many W201 "rear seal leaks"  over the years for frustrated owners. Some of them had replaced the seal several times. Half the time it was the oil pan installed wrong, other times it was from not installing the little gaskets or sealer under the rear main cap. Always install the seal after installing and centering the cover. I made up a cone to center the cover but not having one of those  you can use the seal to eyeball the location by sliding it on the shaft next to the cover. It is pretty easy to see if the cover needs to move to center it. Goodluck!

Butch you are 100% correct. My first rebuilds of these engines were front end leakers and I learned to clean and seal with silicone between the bottom of the bottom of the front cover and block as can be seen in this picture.

Do either of you guys have a picture or diagram for the seal centering cone or the crank end funnel that is spoken of ???

wfmurray wrote:   Dick L Seeing your picture of an oil pan reminds me of what dad used to do.He used sewing  thread and tied the gasket on .Can leave thread on if you want it will press in gasket.

To line the cover with the original A-C tool, you remove the seal from the cover and install the cover loosely on the engine. You then slide the tool over the shaft and it centers the hole in the cover to the shaft. Tighten the cover bolts, install the seal last. Years ago when I overhauled my CA and noticed there were no dowels to line up the cover, I installed the seal in the cover first, stood the engine up on the flywheel, and installed the cover using a feeler gauge to gently lift the seal lip over the shaft. It's dry some 20 years later.