snap coupler plow sway chains.

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   I have a 3 14" snap coupler plow that I freed up all the adjustments and replaced the sway chains last year. even with 2 sets of weights and traction boost I stil have a lot of traction issues. I have the chain set fairly tight. Should I loosen them up and let the plow follow a more natural trail? I'm wondering if I'm forcing the plow to follow a poor draft path.
Here a picture of me and grandpa at plow days last fall Since I know everyone on here loves pictures 

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Allis dave Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 10 May 2012 Location: Northern IN Points: 3054	Post Options Post Reply Quote Allis dave Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: snap coupler plow sway chains. Posted: 31 Jul 2012 at 8:25am
	I have a 3 14" snap coupler plow that I freed up all the adjustments and replaced the sway chains last year. even with 2 sets of weights and traction boost I stil have a lot of traction issues. I have the chain set fairly tight. Should I loosen them up and let the plow follow a more natural trail? I'm wondering if I'm forcing the plow to follow a poor draft path. Here a picture of me and grandpa at plow days last fall Since I know everyone on here loves pictures

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Brian F(IL) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Paxton, IL Points: 2717	Post Options Post Reply Quote Brian F(IL) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 31 Jul 2012 at 9:16am
	Here's a picture of my #73 with replacement chains. I would say I've got mine fairly loose as you've suggested. Just the way it's sitting, the left side is looser than the right side. But, you should allow for some side movement in either direction. I know the beaming screw is the wrong style for a semi-mounted plow. The right beaming screw for this plow was froze up so I used a beaming screw for a mounted plow. It works OK it just means the tail wheel and cylinder are just along for the ride and really don't do much good.

Teddy (punchie) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 14 Jan 2010 Location: Beaver PA Points: 258	Post Options Post Reply Quote Teddy (punchie) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 31 Jul 2012 at 11:33am
	From what I recall from last year plowing they ( the chains ) are used to keep the plows from hitting the triactor, tire etc. I had a D-19, four bottom heavy 80 series plows. I recall braking a chain using plow to push some roots and small trees I plowed out of the ground was reclaiming some old fields. The wheels maybe need to be set ?? Is the plow running with the tire tracks, Is it tracking straight or running funny?? Maybe a worn landside? All I can say is it was a heavy work out for the D-19 in sod and roots, about 7-8" deep 4bottom-14" most was on a steeper hill.
	Ac D-19, a Number of WD's, One WD45, Two 444 balers, Ac plows and etc.

SteveM C/IL Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8629	Post Options Post Reply Quote SteveM C/IL Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 31 Jul 2012 at 1:43pm
	With your set up,you shouldn't be having traction problems if everything is adjusted right. TB link from hitch to pump,pump "lock" screws and linkage on the side.The beaming screw sets the depth so you may not have the front raised enough yet.In decent pulling dirt,you should be able to run with the lever all the way down.I usually ran mine a thumbs width off the bottom of the quadrant.

Bill_MN Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Sioux Falls, SD Points: 1471	Post Options Post Reply Quote Bill_MN Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 31 Jul 2012 at 3:49pm
	set your rear wheel spacing per the plow manual, then shorten the chains just enough to keep the plow from hitting the wheels or tractor when swung in either direction, the chains aren't meant to control line of draft. when i plowed with my WD i had the hydraulic lever about half way up on the quadrant but that depends on the soil
	1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow

TedBuiskerN.IL. Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Davis, IL. Points: 1959	Post Options Post Reply Quote TedBuiskerN.IL. Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 31 Jul 2012 at 4:25pm
	One reason your plow is pulling hard is that it does not have a land polish yet. As the plow brightens up from use it will pull remarkably easier. I have a WD45 weighted similar to yours, but I have fluid in the rear tires, and I pull 4-14's with it. The ground you're in looks like it would be easy pulling.
	Most problems can be solved with the proper application of high explosives.

Allis dave Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 10 May 2012 Location: Northern IN Points: 3054	Post Options Post Reply Quote Allis dave Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Aug 2012 at 7:21am
	THe landslides are good and after awhile the bottoms scoured up real nice. I dind't have too much trouble on the ground in the picture, it was pretty light soil, but I've had to play with the depth a lot in heavier ground. THe plow seem to follow pretty straight, but does pull on the chains sometimes. The wheel spacing's set about right. The first bottom makes about a full cut or a little under. Any tips on how to make sure the plow is set level as far as the right and left side? I freed up all my adjustment screws but I have a tough time telling if it's level or not as the ground changes. I've plowed quite a bit with pull type, but the snap coupler plows are new to me.