Situations when using hand clutch on wd 45

Another question, are you guys shifting on the fly or is that possible? I guess what I mean is say for example if I start off in 2nd gear can I shift to 3rd while moving by lowering the throttle and try to match rpms and gear mesh?   Thanks Guys Butch [/QUOTE wrote:           Is it possible?  Yes.   Should you.  No.

 

 

 

 

 

Is it possible?  Yes.   Should you.  No.

The proper way to shift gears is to bring the tractor to a stop with the foot clutch and after the transmission is stopped you can then shift gears.

 

You may be able to shift on the go without grinding the gears but in the long run you will do much more harm for those times when you do grind them.  Not worth the risk IMHO.

 

 

Edited by Stan IL&TN - 15 Oct 2011 at 1:31pm

Say you have reason to stop when using a piece of machinery. To do something to the combine or picker. You can spin up the machine to run whats in it through or just have it running when you begin forward movement. The tractor isn't under a strain when it gets back into unharvested grain.

I agree with all said about the hand clutch except the last comment. 
One of the last factory schools I visited with Fred from Wertz Garage in Lineboro, MD the questions was raised about using the hand clutch or power director to shift.  We were told when starting from a dead stop to use the foot clutch unless you were powering up a PTO driven implement.  We were also told to bring the tractor to a dead stop before shifting - especially the constant mesh transmissions.  Shifting on the go and using the hand clutch had a tendency to round the ears on the gear splines that meshed with the collars.  The rounded splines caused the popping out of gear. 
From reports on this site it is and has been a constant problem with Allis Chalmers Constant mesh transmissions - no pun intended. 
I am delighted to hear that the gentlemen above has had excellent success shifting with the hand clutch.  I'm also sure that others have had a like success. 
I'm just reporting what was relayed to us from a 1964 factory sales meeting.
Sorry I got so long winded.
Good Luck!
Bill Long

I have forgotten one very important point. Many times you can't get the collars to line up or go into gear when shifting from one gear to another at a dead stop... , necessitating letting the foot clutch out a bit. If you are in a hurry and bring the foot clutch up too quickly you typically have a situation that may just grind the collars. By placing the power director in neutral allows the collars some free travel somehow and the shift can then be made without letting the foot clutch out a bit.  I never ... let me repeat..never grind gears/collars using my shifting method on my 175.  Step on the foot clutch..pop the power director into neutral..shift..let the foot clutch out engage the power director. I have 3700 hours on a mechanical tachometer, which by my calculation, based on my usual engine RPMs, is about 7000 hours. I have never had to adjust my power director clutch it remains as it was when delivered to us in January 1981. We check its adjustment every time the tractor is serviced...no adjustment necessary... all with the original facings.   

I usually use the power director to start the D-14-19 and WD-45 (hand clutch) off in 4th gear. Its an oil clutch and is smooth. I bush hog with a D-15 II and shift forward to reverse and back with the power director with no grinding of gears. You have to be quick!  I love taking off in 5th with the D-21 and double clutch my way up to eight'th.

Anyone who's rode a WD or 45 much knows that the left foot goes on the lift arm shaft or step plate.Makes it real unhandy to use the foot cluch.Blade work and loader work take a lot of back and forth while raising and lowering "tool". Once things are warmed a little you can slip back and forth tween 2nd or 3rd to reverse and back by just snapping out the hand clutch. Straight cut or synchro-mesh.Dad bought the WD new in 49 and it's been run that way till present.I've shifted my 45 that way since 1980 when I bought it.No "problems" from either.I agree in a perfect world you should stop and shift but I don't live in that world.Rolling up shifting and downshifting are part of my world too.

Just using it with any baler. You get clumps that you need to slowly feed into the baler. Hence, using the hand clutch allows you to stop the forward momentum while the PTO continues to turn. One thing to mention: NEVER, but NEVER get off the tractor until the PTO has COMPLETELY stopped turning. I know too many people around my area who are missing limbs because they didn't do this, or worked on the equipment while it was turning. DON'T do this.  Just my 2¢ worth...

I used the hand clutch on my WD45 alot just yesterday morning mowing some of the fields.......if for some reason you want to get off the tractor without stopping pto (maybe something on the equipment needs to be checked with it running) You can lock the brakes and get off of the tractor from the front. I don't advise it but there is times when I think a piece of equipment needs to be watched other than from the driver's seat to make sure its working correctly. There are people that make steps for the front that make it even easier than getting on from the back I think.

A little off topic but you said you would be mowing mostly...I have a Lilliston Rotary Cutter with a hydraulic cylinder on it. If a small log all a suden pops up that you didnt see when checking the field the first time you can hit the hydraulic lever to raise the mower to go over it. Then you can go back and find it after the field is mowed and move it....makes it alot easier than a manual lift drag behind.


Edited by 79fordblake - 16 Oct 2011 at 10:33am

Most of the time we used the hand clutch for shifting when doing loader work with a WD (curved gear shift) going forward in 3 rd gear then reverse. By using the hand clutch the loader continues to lift while changing direction.

My uncle had an early W D with the straight shift lever. He told everyone to use both clutches to shift the transmission. Always use hand clutch first and last. Never heard the transmission make a grinding noise that way. Otherwise I've heard him holler across the field grind a pound while you are at it. You don't want to hear that, but once!

Flint23 wrote: I use the hand clutch when baling straw, tractor speed is a little too fast at times so I use the hand clutch to slow the tractor down some, but keep forward movement, when feeder has caught up then I pull hand clutch back and continue baling at normal pace. Another thing I do before I engage the PTO is to lower RPMs and then let foot clutch out slowly so I don't break anything,  then run the throttle up, then pull back on the hand clutch and away I go..

 

I have learned alot, thanks to you guys. I need to hook up and move the brush hog and get it set up for winter. I'm going to try these techniques, but I now know what I need to do. At the end of the month I can really jump on this and get things done. It's been alot of fun and this forum has given me a wealth of information.  

Whoa Pat!! Only 2 fill plugs on left for trans/rear end.The 3rd one up front is for hydraulics.

Heck, I just saw that I said 17 gallons LOL!