Shop Talk

 After shopping and getting some prices today I did some number crunching. It is a lot to finish the inside of one of these big boxes! Mainly due to the size of the space and qty of materials needed to do the job.

 So I have :

- Electrical to complete maybe 30% done?

- Insulation 

     options: 

        - Foam walls and fiberglass ceiling, (most cost)

- Fiberglass walls and ceiling

- Interior walls options:

- Drywall

- steel wainscoting and hemlock ship lap above (most cost)

- Ceiling, White liner panels

- Overhead door 9 x 8 with row of glass, is on order.

- Walk doors, three at 36" wide, one at 30 inches wide. Have some pricing.

- Heating system, boiler have 2 quotes

That should keep me busy and lighten the wallet! Time line? Well I don't have a schedule at this time. So this may take a while? I like that the building is usable as it sets right now. Lots of my toys are in there!

During our travels today I seen a house and garage that had shutters similar to what I had in mind to put on the shop windows. My concept is to stain them the same as the wood on the bottom exterior. and maybe have different things cut into them? Like a pair with a maple leaf, a pair with horse shoes, pair with AC for Allis Chalmers, pair with Horse heads,........????

Regards,

 Chris

I'd still replace that 30 for a 36 ! I don't wanna read where your knuckles went 'red' moving the presser into it's new home...... jes sayin.....

Hmm... will the shutters be operational or just decorative ? I can 'see' Maple leafs centered in the shutter, left one pointing left, right one, right....

electrical is always 30% done......

walls, maybe just drywall for now, primed and painted white. odds are real good the 'design and layout' will change 4-5 times before Spring so you can look at what works best for benches and shelves.......without having to tear down,buy MORE $$$ materials, spend time redoing it again and again... (welcome to MY garage.......sigh)

Thanks for the picture of your shop. I could probably get real used to that drywall look. And it would be bright and clean for a while too. I was concerned about running the drywall down near the floor, where it might get water sometime?

 Nice 45D you have in the works too. What is the status and plans? I see your into the engine? My good friend Don warned me about these 45D's. 

Regards,

 Chris

Of course we would be interested in your work on your family tractor! Start the thread! A unique build for sure.

Regards,

 Chris

Thanks for the ideas!

 The brain keeps working, May be a good or bad thing?

I think this is like buying a vehicle. New would be good but I could live with used. There are so many cars to choose from and so many options, so many brands, Could drive a old Ford but a Lamborghini would be nice! Similar to this shop. Need to evaluate some of the options, Leather interior or just cloth? At some point you decide what you want and can afford. I went with out most of my life so at this time I have gone maybe a little overboard on the old gray shed. I realize that too, but I sure have had fun so far. I have done the framing on the inside to allow it to be finished off real nice either now or later and a good drywall job would work very well for years!

Back to insulation: 

This is not my house, at least not yet. R19 fiberglass has been used for years and can do a good job if installed properly. This would be like the cloth seats vs the heated leather (spray foam). By the way I do like my heated leather se(ats in the truck!) Savings about $3000

Wall coverings:

So I was thinking 5/8 thick 4 foot x 10 foot sheets standing vertical. install metal rat run at the base keeping the drywall up 1-1/2 inches from the floor. Could add a bead of caulking along that bottom edge too. Next for the bottom 3 feet paint it a different color. Maybe Allis cream color or a medium gray which might not show the dirt/ wear and tear? Then above maybe Allis corporate white (ok just white) or the Allis D series cream color? And at the 3 foot mark add a 4 inch strip of wood (pine 1 inch x 4 inch wide) horizontal painted maybe Persian Orange #1? It would be like a wider chair rail look to accent the room and break up the massive wall look? I have a 2 x 6 in that area now which would be great to fasten to.

Just a weird idea that might accomplish finished walls with readily available somewhat lower cost materials. Allowing me to put some monies towards other things that need finished too. The fire resistant part would be a plus too. Not sure I would want to do all the seams and screw holes? I actually like the exterior hemlock material put it up and done. At least till the next time it needs stained!

If using dry wall savings might be $1K?? maybe more?

Shop project today was the chain falls. Well I messed up and got the chain bound up in it so I have to figure that one out too.

 Last night I canned up 11 gallons of maple syrup to restock the shelves for the Christmas Season. Really nice Amber Rich syrup. That leaves me with about 20 gallons of syrup remaining for the year. I like to have a little syrup left as a buffer if we get a late start.

Regards,

 Chris

 A little change of pace but still shop related somewhat. I decided to work on the Dayton Electric chain hoist today. Its going to work or be junk was my thoughts! First thing I did was continue to pull chain by going in the down mode. Got the chain stop bound against the housing. Stuck. Beat on the chain stop, finally just went and got the 4-1/2 inch grinder and cut the chain stop apart. We can get a new one or weld the sleeve I cut apart?

Decided to call Altoona Hoist and talked to RJ. Very nice guy!  He sent me the PDF repair manual via email.

 He also talked me through the fact that if the motor worked, it was probably up against one of the prox switches. He told be how to take the brake apart and move the chain through the machine manually over the sheave.

Some pictures: 

But before that the LP heater and a diesel torpedo heater helped keep me thawed out! Temps around 35F. 2 inches of Pretty!

 2 ton Dayton hoist On the Old Yale manual chain falls. The jib worked good. I swung it around and set it on my rolling work bench, at the 9 x 8 overhead door area.

Chain is slipping from wear in the sheave or the composite chain guide. Both may be worn and need replaced: With the chain slipping I realized I cant set the upper limit prox.

Here I took the electrical parts and moved them out of the way to get to the brake assembly:

Brake components are ready to be removed:

With the brake assembly removed you can get a good view of the limit switches (proximity switches) Maybe actual contact switches?) Gold wheel is the upper stop limit, silver wheel is the down stop position. Very fine thread shaft they ride on. one click of the wheel is 1 link I think.

Brake components removed:

With the brake components out of the way this shaft can be rotated to move the chain through the sheave. Thats the good news. With the gear reduction it would have taken me 3 days to move the chain (20 feet) So I took a spade bit and reworked it as a driver to fit in the spline ends and spun it in reverse. Still took me 15 minutes or so to move the chain through the sheave.

Yea wasn't sure about this project but it helped to have RJ walk me through the treory of the work and assure me I could get the chain moving.

Since my lifting distance is going to be less than 10 feet I pulled a lot of chain through that may get cut off some day or may just lay in the chain bucket. (which I dont have)

After several failed attempts to get the 20 feet of chain threaded back through the alignment feature so it would not kink through the sheave, I was successful, Ran the hoist up and down with the limit wheels set closer together to allow some trials. Pretty exciting to see it going up and down! But on the way up it would jump a link once in a while.  That needs fixed. Then we should be good to go. 

I did figure out that this hoist is set up for 115v so that fits good with the shop. Could go with 220 if I wanted to swap some wires per the electrical diagram?

I always wanted a electric hoist. Well darn, now I have one! Be very careful what you wish for! This Dayton unit is more than I need. But it was close by and was $100, I took a chance. Have you priced hoists these lately? A new one would be about $4K! Yikes! I still have some dollars and time to put into it. Hope to have less than $200 in it????? If so My whole Jib crane including install would be under $600, mostly concrete and this hoist.

Maybe really handy if it works.

Done for the day. 

Was thinking about what My neighbor said on his shop build. He went low cost a year ago and used OSB on the walls, taped and spackled the seams, primed it, and several coats of finish paint. When done he felt he spent the same monies as using liner panels! Just sayin. Paint isnt cheap either!

Regards,

 Chris

I remember the white wash thing too. But I lived with that in the cow stable all the time. 

Worked on the bearing brackets for the OH doors. Nothing but some noodling, layout, and whittling here.

Love those Lennox blades! Note the use of the rebuilt YOST vice too! It worked well!

This will allow the door spring system to move down about 1 inch lower. 

Added another hole for the bolt of death, (red colored bolt) Those reworked brackets are done!

National toe warming competition right now as I thaw out!

Regards,

 Chris