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Dave(inMA) 
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 Topic: SC Draw Bar Question
Posted: 28 Nov 2018 at 4:21pm |
Installed the SC draw bar on my WD45 today. In the photo, the two bolts indicated by red arrows are not tight - so the cross bar (at 90* angle to and below the draw bar), bolts and clamp plate (above the draw bar) slide as a unit on the draw bar. Is that correct, or should the bolts be tightened so that the cross bar/clamp doesn't move?
Edited by Dave(inMA) - 28 Nov 2018 at 4:31pm
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old farmer
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Posted: 28 Nov 2018 at 4:41pm |
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We always have run with them tight. With PTO being used you will be very happy that they are tight!
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Dave(inMA)
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Posted: 28 Nov 2018 at 4:46pm |
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Thanks, old farmer. Does tight make it easier or harder to install the draw bar?
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PaulB
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Posted: 28 Nov 2018 at 4:56pm |
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You really need to loosen them a bit to make it easier to put the SC drawbar assembly on and off.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
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dawntreader74
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Posted: 28 Nov 2018 at 5:14pm |
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with the bolts tight the traction booster can't work very good. if it has one on it. don't thank them bolts should ever be tight. booster pulls on the draw bar' how can it work if it's held back?
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JimWenigOH
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Posted: 28 Nov 2018 at 5:22pm |
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I don't know the answer to your question, but the Parts Catalog shows that the two bolts that go through the clamp have a hole drilled in them near the end for a cotter pin to be installed. It shows the lock washer and nut to be on top of the clamp, then the cotter pin on up near the end of the bolt. If the bolts were not meant to be tight, why would they have a lock washer in there? I don't know. When I put new bolts in mine, I used grade 8 with a lock nut and left the clamp a "little" loose. The draw bar on my 190 was made to have a little movement when pinned in the center position.
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dawntreader74
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Posted: 28 Nov 2018 at 5:37pm |
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got wd45 came home new 1954 had bolts dropped in them two holes with flat plate on top never had nuts on bottom at all. someone put them washers on an whatever else. i can see putting a lock nut on the bottom of the bolts to keep the bolts from jumping out. drawbar can't work right if it can't move.
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DiyDave
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Posted: 28 Nov 2018 at 5:43pm |
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Back When I was running SC stuff regular, I put nylon insert locknuts, on the bottom, and tightened up, so there was a little play in the drawbar...
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dawntreader74
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Posted: 28 Nov 2018 at 5:45pm |
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traction-booster' pulls on draw bar with spring by the bell. how can it work if it's bolted down ? has to move in an out some. draw bar works same as your plow or whatever sc-tool you put on the tractor should work the same.
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Dennis J OPKs
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Posted: 28 Nov 2018 at 6:43pm |
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The first WD's didn't even have bolts, they had a large U bolt with cotter pins to keep it from bouncing out. Also, no Traction Booster as such, it was retrofitted later by merely adding the gauge. Some early pin implements, plow & subsoiler could be used with a pin hitch drawbar and Traction Booster. However most Traction Booster implements came later with their own eye for snap coupler and didn't use the existing drawbar. There were snap coupler conversions available for the WD and they were AC items. I have an early WD operator & maintenance manual (straight gearshift) and it shows no Traction Booster gauge and has the pin hitch drawbar.
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 28 Nov 2018 at 7:20pm |
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Dawntreader ,what implement would you use that needed the drawbar to slide to apply lift to? Around here WD and WD45 drawbars are pulled back and locked down.Plow and disc only thing here to use TB and they didn't use the drawbar.
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Dave(inMA)
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Posted: 28 Nov 2018 at 7:32pm |
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It seemed to me that installing the draw bar with the bolts loose was sorta like wrestling with alligators! Which is what prompted my question. A lot of this discussion seems to center around whether the Traction Boost can function if the bolts are tight....but doesn't the TB system depend on the implement being rigidly connected to the tractor? If an implement or load is attached using the draw bar, is it possible for the load to be rigidly connected to the tractor? Seems there'd always be a fair amount of flex in any draw bar hitched situation, and no effective TB. Does this make sense?
Edited by Dave(inMA) - 28 Nov 2018 at 7:33pm
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WF owner
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Posted: 28 Nov 2018 at 7:33pm |
Someone can correct me if I am wrong, but I was under the impression that the Traction Booster only worked on mounted equipment and it worked by the hydraulic arms raising slightly. Some snap coupler bells (where the bottom link hooks) had the spring and some didn't. I thought the bell was mounted solid to the tractor. I know later tractors (180, 7000, etc.) had Traction Booster and I'm sure the drawbar mounts were rigid. "Traction Booster" hitches from the early 70's used the three point hitch arms. Am I wrong?
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Gary Burnett
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Posted: 28 Nov 2018 at 7:40pm |
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I hate having them loose, beating and banging around,cordless impact to loosen when necessary and then tighten back up.
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Dusty MI
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Posted: 28 Nov 2018 at 8:27pm |
 SteveM C/IL wrote:
Dawntreader ,what implement would you use that needed the drawbar to slide to apply lift to? Around here WD and WD45 drawbars are pulled back and locked down.Plow and disc only thing here to use TB and they didn't use the drawbar. |
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DSeries4
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Posted: 28 Nov 2018 at 8:47pm |
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The pull point for the drawbar is the snap coupler bell, NOT the drawbar hanger. The purpose of the hanger is to keep the height of the drawbar. I use locknuts on the bolts so the drawbar has some back and forth slack.
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 28 Nov 2018 at 8:56pm |
DSeries4 wrote:
The pull point for the drawbar is the snap coupler bell, NOT the drawbar hanger. The purpose of the hanger is to keep the height of the drawbar. I use locknuts on the bolts so the drawbar has some back and forth slack.
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You will find that the clamp doesn't do the pulling.After much rough use,when you loosen the clamp,the drawbar will snap fwd from the spring load pull.You are indeed pulling from the front. Do as you wish. My bars aren't going to be flopping and banging.Just like you, ours have been this way for 50 yrs with no ill effect so apparently either works.
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dawntreader74
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Posted: 28 Nov 2018 at 10:10pm |
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steve- i know you use wd tractors' never said anything about useing a draw bar for any snap-coupler tool. all i said was it can't make cents to me to lock down a draw bar if it has traction booster. it works on the tractor the same as the tools' after you remove the draw bar out of the bell an hook up your tool it all works the same right ? the man said the start with it was a WD45 he was working on. it should have traction-booster felt it should have some movement like others say.
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Dave(inMA)
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Posted: 29 Nov 2018 at 8:35am |
Yes - tractor indeed has the TB system, though I'm not sure that it activates when using the draw bar. I can see that being able to slide the cross bar can be helpful when engaging the slots in the arms. I wonder what the AC design guys had in mind back in the day!
I gotta say that the SC hitch system is great for mounting implements like a plow.......not so much fun for mounting the draw bar.  Anyone got a good system for mounting the draw bar that takes the sting out of lifting and engaging the bar into the bell?
Thanks for all the replies! |
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littlemarv
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Posted: 29 Nov 2018 at 9:05am |
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The traction booster works by lifting the lift arms to transfer weight to the rear wheels. Not lift the implement out of the ground, just putting more pressure on the tires for traction. So when you are using the drawbar, what do you hook the lift arms to? I though traction booster was mostly for mounted implements, but I thought I saw a "traction booster drawbar", that had brackets and chains to connect to the implement?
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Steve Bright
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Posted: 29 Nov 2018 at 9:09am |
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I was told at a very young age to tighten the bolts, Makes no sense to me to hear all that racket when they are loose, And why would you want the movement from a loose drawbar while pulling a wagon, baler, or any other pull type implement. My Dad worked for AC after WWII that is where I got my info. So I guess it comes down to personal preference
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jiminnd
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Posted: 29 Nov 2018 at 9:22am |
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I have mine snug and double nutted. It can move just a slight amount so the pull is on the bell, not the support, it doesn't bang around but gives a little flexibility when hooking up. Also, they all had traction booster, just the early ones didn't have the gauge.
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Allis dave
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Posted: 29 Nov 2018 at 10:32am |
It should be slightly loose. Like someone mentioned. The parts drawing shows a casle nut so it shouldn't be like. I have steel locknuts on mine. They are tight enough to not bang and shake, but loose enough to slide. It you ever adjust your drawbar height it has to slide a little to adjust. It's also not about using traction boost. It's that the drawbar is mounted to a spring. As the drawbar pulls hard and easy the drawbar constantly changes position. If you "pull it out and lock it down" then your spring is always under pressure and will distort. If you go to a tractor pull your drawbar will pull out way more than a usual pull. Your drawbar needs to move. If you had the old hand clutch kickout for plowing, you wouldn't be able to "Lock down" your drawbar or your clutch would be kicked out all the time. The time I tractor pulled I had to hold the clutch to keep it from kicking out. The drawbar probably moved 1-2" Do what you want, but being tight isn't how the engineers designed it.
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Dave(inMA)
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Posted: 29 Nov 2018 at 10:59am |
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Thanks, Dave. Your explanation about varying load on the spring makes sense - and lays out what the design was intended to do.
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Don(MO)
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Posted: 29 Nov 2018 at 1:48pm |
Pull out your WD45 tractor operators manual look on pages 27 and then on page 34 under "Snap Coupler" then read what's in there. Then do the same thing in the WD operators manual. If you don't have operators manuals on your tractor/tractors and implements them please get one, there's lots of good reading in them. On a "WD" that has been updated to the "Snap Coupler" them go with the WD45 INFO.
Edited by Don(MO) - 29 Nov 2018 at 1:53pm
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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PaulB
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Posted: 29 Nov 2018 at 5:01pm |
dawntreader74 wrote:
with the bolts tight the traction booster can't work very good. if it has one on it. don't thank them bolts should ever be tight. booster pulls on the draw bar' how can it work if it's held back? |
What piece of DRAWBAR equipment are you pulling that uses the traction booster? The traction booster works with mounted and semi mounted implements. For any PTO use the Drawbar should be clamped tight to give better control of the Baler, Combine, ect.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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Tracy Martin TN
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Posted: 29 Nov 2018 at 5:53pm |
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When pulling wheel disc, if bolts are tight and the jerking pulls drawbar out, the disc will raise but can't fall back. Bolts are best loose enough for easy slide . HTH Tracy
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Dave(inMA)
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Posted: 29 Nov 2018 at 6:32pm |
Thanks, Don and Tracy. I've now read the manual as suggested - dumb me for not trying that first! And interesting that the manual says both tightened and loose are right, the answer depending on how the hydraulic pump controls are set.
That said, would you set the pump for weight transfer for participating in a tractor pull (clamp loose), or set it otherwise (clamp tight)? Or do the pump settings not matter for pulling a heavy draw bar load? It'd be great if TB worked at a tractor pull!!
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Tracy Martin TN
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Posted: 29 Nov 2018 at 7:33pm |
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Dave, in all honesty, DrAllis is the one that pointed this out to me on my D15. He is a wealth of knowledge! Thanks Tracy
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No greater gift than healthy grandkids!
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Dave(inMA)
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Posted: 29 Nov 2018 at 7:42pm |
Indeed he is - as are many on here!!
Dave
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