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Roto baler problem

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js case View Drop Down
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Joined: 19 Oct 2012
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote js case Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Roto baler problem
    Posted: 10 May 2020 at 1:18pm
Any experts out there on the roto baler. We used one on the farm when I was a kid but dad always kept it running.  All I got to do was pickup all those little  round bales. Bought a white top a few years ago just to show kids what it was like. Looked to be in good shape. Finally got it in field last summer and could not get to bale.  Bale would start rolling but then kick out almost as soon as it started.  I worked all  afternoon trying to get it to bale with only one bale by dark. Haven't looked at it since but would still like to get it working.  I would appreciate any  information anyone has to help me get this baler going.  
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NE GA Allis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NE GA Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 2020 at 1:58pm
If the white top balers are similar to the older balers, then I would start looking at the trip latches located at the back of the baler at both ends of the two rollers that separate when the bale is ejected. If the latches are latched, next thing I would look at is to make sure that the mechanism that causes the bale to eject is not sticking. The part I find to stick the most and cause the bale to eject is the arm that has the tension disks on it for the twine. If that arm is not pulled back into place by its spring, then the baler will always be trying to eject the bale. I’ll get some pictures uploaded.
Keeping Allis alive with:
2 B’s, 1 C, 6 CA’s, 2 WD’s,
1 WD45, 3 D15D’s, 1 D17

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NE GA Allis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NE GA Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 2020 at 2:27pm

The blue arrow is pointing at the latch. The end pointing to the front of the baler moves up and down. To be latched it needs to be down as far as it can go.

The red arrow points at the end of the trip arms. If you can pull it back and separate the trip arms any amount, then the latch is not properly latched.
Keeping Allis alive with:
2 B’s, 1 C, 6 CA’s, 2 WD’s,
1 WD45, 3 D15D’s, 1 D17

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NE GA Allis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NE GA Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 2020 at 2:36pm


On this photo,
Blue Arrow: twine tension discs
Green Arrow: spring that pulls the tension disc arm back to place. Just showing you this so you can verify that the spring is there and which direction it pulls on the arm.
Red Arrow: this is the cam that turns and lifts the trip latches to eject the bale. If this is always rotating, then the tension disc arm is not back in its place.

To my knowledge if you check in the two places I described, then I think you may find your problem. The timing for ejecting the bale starts when the press roller pulls the string in the baler and pulls on the tension disc arm, which allows the cam to turn and lift the trip latches. Hope this helps and some other members can verify this.
Keeping Allis alive with:
2 B’s, 1 C, 6 CA’s, 2 WD’s,
1 WD45, 3 D15D’s, 1 D17

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PaulB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 2020 at 4:46pm
X2 on the latches and twine tension.    Also there are springs behind the plungers near the latches that can be broken. You have to remove the castle nut and the plunger to look at them.  
GREASE everything that has a fitting and OIL everything that moves that doesn't have a grease fitting. The twine knife needs to be razor sharp.
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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MACK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 2020 at 9:40pm
On your white top, string does not have to catch in press roller for arm to go across. Ball of twine in up side down will cause it to eject bail early.
Castle but PaulB talked about needs tighten just enough to pull head in to arm.   MACK
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote js case Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2020 at 8:54am
Thanks guys for all the information.  Seems like I have inspected most of the items you have brought up but I will for sure go back and go through them all.  I guess thinking about the situation I may have not described problem correctly. The bale does not build after it starts.  Many times the chamber would pop open and not eject the bale. Hay would just feed through and out the back. After pulling the chamber open to remove small bale, I would push back so it was locked and then try again. Same thing would happen. Chamber would just pop open again.  One thing I did not mention is that many of the springs were broke and I did have to replace them.  I did not use factory springs but just matched as good as possible.  I wonder if that could be some of my problems.  Also how tight are the belts supposed to be.   Thanks again for any info. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2020 at 10:43am
Is the brake tightened up? Always store loose.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2020 at 5:39pm
Try running across the ends of a few windrows, to start bales.  Hay goes in parallel to the bale chamber, and starts to roll easier.  Also remember that these balers like dry hay, better than wet, and like a full, double windrow, raked side by side, just barely touching each other...Wink
Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2020 at 9:50pm
Top belts should be tight, lower belts loose until there is enough hay in there to tighten them up.
If the big gear on twine tube drive is turning while making a bale, it's going to open. Make sure the gear stop is hitting center on gear latch and not full of dirt.           MACK
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HD6GTOM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2020 at 1:04am
Where are you located? I been running them for 50+ years. I am in southern Iowa. If you are close I could come look at it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote js case Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2020 at 11:36am
First of all , thanks for the again for the help.  The brake was mentioned and I did take brake apart to check if frozen before i started. Tightened up but not sure how tight it should be. Kind of watched bolt threads to tighten.  I am aware of the windrows.   Usually was my job to rake when I was a kid.  Had ac AC tedder/rake whatever that model was. Always had to roll two side by side. Kind of had fun doing that. Not sure to top belts are tight. I will check. I am north east of ST Louis so thanks for the offer to come and help but we are a good distance apart. I will keep trying. Worked with machines all my life but this this has me pulling my hair out. I am just missing something.  Thanks JIm 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote js case Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2020 at 10:13am
Looked at the baler again. According to the picture posted the green arrow shows a spring hooked to the rod and pulling back to the left. My baler has a spring hooked to that same rod on a cotter key and pulls to to right. Looks like a factory spring and factory mounting. Also have a triangle that pivots behind that rod and it has a hole in it like a spring would go into it.  Also have a rod to the left up behind the gears with a hole in it like a spring should go into it. In the picture is the spring shown hooked to this rod ? Should there be a spring going from the rod to the triangle however that does not look correct to me. Looks like the triangle should do something .  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NE GA Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2020 at 12:20pm
Hopefully someone with a white top baler can verify what you have. The photos I posted with the arrows are from a baler from the 50’s. It might be different.
Also it may help the others if you posted photos of the string mechanism you have.
Keeping Allis alive with:
2 B’s, 1 C, 6 CA’s, 2 WD’s,
1 WD45, 3 D15D’s, 1 D17

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote js case Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2020 at 4:51pm
Found a white top to look at.  I am missing the spring which pulls to the left. It is hookd to the triangle I talked about and then to the rod I talked about. Could very well be the cause of all my problems. Sure wish I could find OEM springs. Guess I will just try to match up a spring. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2020 at 5:30pm
Maybe Alex has them? He has a lot of NOS Allis parts.
 Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NE GA Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2020 at 5:38pm
Agrimson tool Co. has the springs listed. Not sure if they still sell them or not. 



Edited by NE GA Allis - 26 May 2020 at 5:39pm
Keeping Allis alive with:
2 B’s, 1 C, 6 CA’s, 2 WD’s,
1 WD45, 3 D15D’s, 1 D17

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dr p Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2020 at 7:15pm
They do. Got a box full last fall
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