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mdefelice91171 
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Location: Brooksville, FL
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 Topic: Roto Bailer question
Posted: 21 Aug 2015 at 3:38pm |
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I have a Roto Bailer and a WD and am going to attempt to get the Bailer working this weekend. My question is I have the appropriate ball and socket connector but my drawbar is much longer than the PTO shaft. Was there a shorter bar or other way of attaching It or should I simply look for a longer PTO shaft.
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Richard
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Posted: 21 Aug 2015 at 3:46pm |
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The drawbar had holes so the length could be shortened.
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Joe(OH)
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Posted: 21 Aug 2015 at 4:23pm |
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Might be a dumb question but you know the shaft on the bailer pulls forward?
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Life is simpler when you plow around the stump.
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Bill Long
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Posted: 21 Aug 2015 at 4:35pm |
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When you adjust your draw bar check the American Standard Agricultural Engineers (ASAE) settings. I believe that you would adjust the draw bar hitch pin hole to 13 1/2" from the end of the PTO Shaft. That would enable the joints in the draw bar to make the turns without locking. There are bolt holes that allow the WD draw bar to be properly adjusted.
Also, there is a height setting and I am not certain of it.
The Roto baler's draw bar can be adjusted for transportation making the machine narrower.
Check your manual for how to do it. Also, check the adjustments in your manual. There are some very critical settings that once made the baler will work very efficiently.
Good Luck!
Bill Long
ps: Let us know how it goes
Edited by Bill Long - 21 Aug 2015 at 4:37pm
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mdefelice91171
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Posted: 21 Aug 2015 at 8:38pm |
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I kmow there are some adjustments on the tongue length but not the shaft. As for the draw bar i can raise it to get it level but there's only one hole at the end so the length is set
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Dakota Dave
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Posted: 21 Aug 2015 at 11:17pm |
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you have to take the drawbar apart. the middle section where the two halfs bolt together. one goes over the bail and the other under the bail. there are several holes that allow you to change the lenght of the drawbar.
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bdallman
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Posted: 22 Aug 2015 at 12:12am |
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The entire pto shaft slides in and out on those rotobalers.... Yours may be stuck and need to be knocked free.
Brett
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1954 CA, 1952 WD with Freeman Loader,1955 WD45, 1963 D19 Gas, 1984 620H, 1980’s AC Forklift, 66 All Crop Harvester, White Top Roto Baler, Misc S.C. Equip and AC Collectibles.
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mdefelice91171
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Posted: 24 Aug 2015 at 10:35am |
Ok, so I got the draw bar adjusted, the drive shaft adjusted, the whole package...then as I feathered the clutch she came to life... After about ten minutes of checking linkage and re-greasing fittings, we fed her a little hay from a loose bail we had. She did well at first, then as the bail grew larger, all the sudden bang...there goes a belt, then another, then the lower tensioner brake somehow broke the back plate. Took 45 minutes to get the belts out, and another hour to figure out what broke...     
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mdefelice91171
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Posted: 24 Aug 2015 at 10:35am |
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Anyone have a good source for these random parts?
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Bill Long
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Posted: 24 Aug 2015 at 12:14pm |
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Let me apologize for forgetting to mention that you need to free the brake bands on the bale size adjustment. They freeze after time as you said and can cause trouble.
Have to check my memory better.
Sorry!
As to parts I always suggest Sandy Lake. They are one of the sponsors of this forum.
Good Luck!
Bill Long
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TomYaz
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Posted: 24 Aug 2015 at 12:23pm |
I might have what you need, but a part number would be very helpful. Im not to familiar to understand what that part looks like. Is the spring broken too? Might have that as well.
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If its not an All-Crop, it all crap!
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mdefelice91171
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Posted: 24 Aug 2015 at 12:59pm |
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Bill...no problem...
Tom,
I looked in the Roto manual, and it shows the entire brake assy disassembled but unfortunately does not list each part number. For reference, it is the inboard plate that covers the brake drum on the right hand end of the lower bar (the one that rides up the curve with teeth on it.
I would imagine there is a part number assigned to it in the service manual or parts manual, but that is separate from the "Owner/operator" manual. I have been searching for a service manual since this happened, but no luck. Maybe someone on here has a parts/service manual and can provide the reference?
I'm hoping to take it apart this week and when I do, I will take some good photo's for reference. In the mean time, if you have (think you have) the part, please let me know how much. If you can send a pic of what part you think you have, I can confirm it that way too.
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darrel in ND
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Posted: 24 Aug 2015 at 2:02pm |
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Mack, on the forum here, has six roto baler parts machines. Maybe he'll chime in here, and probably be able to helping you out. I, too, should have thought about telling you to make sure that the tensioning brake wasn't stuck. Sorry, Darrel
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mdefelice91171
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Posted: 24 Aug 2015 at 2:16pm |
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No problem...Live and learn...so in the mean time, does anyone recognize the part description? Its the plate that keeps the guts of the brake inside the brake...(inboard side against the frame).
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MACK
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Posted: 24 Aug 2015 at 10:05pm |
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Yes, I should have that housing. MACK
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TomYaz
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Posted: 25 Aug 2015 at 1:44am |
Looked at my parts manual, don't have that part. Sorry.
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If its not an All-Crop, it all crap!
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mdefelice91171
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Posted: 25 Aug 2015 at 12:28pm |
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Mack PM's me and said he has the part. Thanks all for the info. I've still got to take the brake apart to see if the guts are chewed up. I'll add to this post when I get ready to run it again. In the mean time, does anyone have a source for belts, and any advice to go with putting them on and adjusting them?
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darrel in ND
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Posted: 25 Aug 2015 at 4:32pm |
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I'm guessing that maybe an advertiser on here may have belts. If no one chimes in having them, then go to a company called shoups. Just Google it and you should get a number for them. Darrel
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mdefelice91171
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Posted: 03 Nov 2015 at 6:56am |
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Hi all, I finally got the No 7 sickle and bailer working a the same time!!! I got new belts from a company in ND, and got it all painted up. Thought I had it adjusted pretty well, but I'm finding that as the bale rolls up (good full size) and the twine arm drops, it works great up to that point. Occasionally I have to tap the twine pully to get the re-set crank to start, then when it returns to horizontal, it drops again because the bale fails to eject. This trip arms are up and the hooks have released, but it just keeps rolling and of course the twine feed drops again. I found the solution to be giving the release assembly a good flip up with the handle of a pitch fork which causes the bale to pop right out. Unfortunately, the hooks don't always re-set (one or both) so if I don't give it a good kick to lock them, the next bale just turns to fluff and gets spit out as fast as it feeds.
LOL...other than that, (having to assist all the movements)it makes great bales, large and tight. Did 3 and half acres of Bahia, and 2 acres of alyceclover. Once I get the knock fixed in the tractor, I will cut the Bahia again.
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BillinAlberta
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Posted: 03 Nov 2015 at 7:33am |
I feel your pain in trying to get this machine to work. I have done 4 to 600 rotobales yearly for the last 3 years and the machine took constant fiddling for the first 200 or so bales that first year. Your problem ejecting and resetting sounds familiar lol.Look at the bar across the back that the arms swivel on. In all 3 of the balers I have here they were seized tight.As soon as I freed them up the baler worked (more or less) flawlessly. Once you have it working it is pretty trouble free as long as it's lubed well.
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mdefelice91171
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Posted: 03 Nov 2015 at 7:42am |
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Thanks...I had to free up a few parts and ended up breaking the brake (see above) But I finally got it to start working...almost on its own...
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HD6GTOM
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Posted: 03 Nov 2015 at 7:49am |
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been in your situation many times--you need to oil up everything under the hood. Make sure you get all the linkage to the bale parts that eject the bale. remember on a rotobaler you cannot over oil them.
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Dakota Dave
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Posted: 03 Nov 2015 at 8:42am |
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if you go to 3000 toys. the rotobailer shop service manual is listed you can buy one there.I ordered a couple manuls that way they came to my house fairly quick and they are nice clean reproductions.
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Creek Jenkins
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Posted: 03 Nov 2015 at 2:11pm |
I am having the same exact problem with my RotoBaler. We are well past haying season here, but I was not able to get it to work consistently last summer. I would almost always have to trip the arms to get it to eject the bale and reset the twine arm. I made a few well wrapped bales with one end very securely wrapped with twine. Didn't have a chance to work on it steady, so would hook it up once in awhile and run some hay thru it, make an adjustment, then try it again. I oiled the helms outta the twine tying mechanism, greased all 48 zerks. Slathered grease wherever it looked like something rubbed. Still no luck. Tried different PTO speeds, didn't seem to make a difference. Adjusted the tension disc looser and looser (the PO was using plastic baler twine). Didn't help. Went tighter with the adjustment after seeing the balers at Hutch pretty much had all the tension discs set pretty tight. That did help a bit, but not a cure. Next spring I am going to install the wood guides for the rattle chains on the feed ramp - I had the chains jump off once, and continue to tweak it and see if I can solve the issue. Mine is in pretty good shape for it's age (1952), hardly has paint worn off the feed ramp. I did buy new top belts as they looked pretty rough, but haven't had to put them on, the old ones are still holding up. Let me know if you solve this issue, I would love to get mine working, I can't wait until next summer, I have a few acres cultivated / black over the winter, hope to plant them in clover hay in the spring so I can make hay later. cheers, Creek
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TomYaz
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Posted: 03 Nov 2015 at 4:40pm |
The older I get, the more I realize farmers are masochists.
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If its not an All-Crop, it all crap!
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